chancing all fluids on 1993 legacy AWD stationwagon

[1993 Legacy]

Hello to all,

 

I am getting ready to change all the fluids on my 1993 AWD legacy 2.2 station wagon. I have studied both manuals that i got (Chilton's and Haynes) and one of them mentions some fluid filter in the automatic gearbox which requires the removal of the bottom pan to clean. Is this necessary, adviseable or is something I shouldn't bother with at this moment. The car has a total of 97,000 km on the clock (approx 60,000 miles) from new.

 

I have also read about air getting stuck in the cooling system and creating hot spots. Is there a valve somewhere on the block or elsewhere to release the trapped air?

 

Any suggestions as to the best possible procedure for changing brake fluid and avoiding having air trapped in the system?

 

I know these are a couple of questions but your answers will really be appreciated. Any pointers as to write-ups about the topic anywhere on the net would also be welcome.

 

Thanks to all in advance. I am new to subies and plan to hold onto this car for quite a few years to come.

 

Best regards

 

Dusan

[coloradosubarules]

I own the same vehicle just a 1990 so I hope I can help here. Seeing as how your vehicle has 60K miles you might want to consider a timing belt change. Subaru reccomends they be changed every 60K. As for the transmission filter, there are two on our vehicles. There is one in the tranny (pan removal a must) and there is also one under the hood by the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side. When replacing the fluid in the transmission be sure to unplug one of the lines going to the radiator from the tranny as to be sure to remove all fluid. Don't be suprised if you get something like 8 qts of fluid or more out of your transmission. Makes sure you replace the pan gasket on the tranny as well. I buy my transmission fluid in gallons so it is cheaper.

 

When changing the gear lube in the Transfer case I like to but a gallon of that as well but I get the pump with the long hose from the parts store. This way I just feed the pump into the dipstick neck and pump away untill I have the desired level as indicated by the marks on the side of the bottle. Oil is a no brainer..(I hope). Change the fluid in the rear diff while you are down there. Brakes are easy too. To make it really simple you could head down to your local parts store and pick up a brake bleeding kit. It is a small canister with a lenght of hose and it has a magnet on one side so you can attach it to your vehicle. Affix the end of the hose to your bleeder screw and loosen the screw. Remove the lid from your master cylinder and just be sure to keep adding clean fluid. You will need to empty the canister a few times untill the fluid runs clear. Repeat this procedure at all four corners. DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDDLE DURING THIS PROCEDURE!

 

Hpe this helps.

[state]

When I changed my brake fluid I had my wife push the brake pedel to the floor after I loosened the nut and she held it there until I tightened the nut back. Kept the reservoir full and moved to the next wheel when if ran clear.

[1993 Legacy]

Hi all,

 

I have purchased the following:

 

Dextron III for Automatic gearbox - 10 liters - says I need 8.3 liters for gearbox and 0.7 liters for power steering

 

API GL-5 - 2 liters - says I need 1.2 for front and 0.8 liters for back differential

 

Is this correct?

 

How much Brake fluid will I need for the flush and change of brake fluid? Which sould I get Dot 3, Dot 4 or some other and which one would be best according to you?

 

What should I clean the automatic gearbox filter (the one located inside the gearbox) with?

 

Is there any procedure for power steering fluid flush and fluid change? I could not find anything specific.

 

Thank you all in advance for your answers.

 

Best regards

 

Dusan

 

P.S. They have never heard of pressure bleeders in shops around here.

[Setright]

Here is the link to a guide on flushing and filling the cooling system, written by me! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=coolant+replacement

 

 

I would recommend Castrol DOT4 "Response" brake fluid. A litre should be enough. Above have been mentioned to separate brake line flush methods, sucking on the caliper bleeder, or pushing fluid out via the brake pedal. Both work, but DON'T try to combine them!

No matter which you chose, soak the bleeder screw in WD-40 or similar before opening, and use a full wrench on it, not an open end. The bleeder screws tend to stick and an open-end will chew the nut.

 

Power steering fluid is probably easiest to just draw out of the reservoir and refill. Run the engine to circulate. Repeat once. This won't replace all the fluid, but you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

[jeansain]

When I changed my brake fluid I had my wife push the brake pedel to the floor.

Bad idea! Put a block under the pedal so that it can be pushed only about half way down, as normal braking action does. Otherwise, you could damage your master cylinder.