Easy way to replace Balljoints

[morgantruce]

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The main problem with replacing balljoints is that you are fighting against the spring tension of the front suspension. The control arm just does not want to come down low enough to get the ball joint out. Using levers and pry bars is difficult and can lead to messing up the new balljoint when you fight to get it in.

 

Here's a much easier way--that reduces all tension on the control arm:

 

1. Get the front end up on jack stands with the wheels removed.
   
2. Jam a large screwdriver into the slot of the wheel bearing housing at the top of the balljoint. Squirt some penetrating oil in there.
   
3. Remove the two bolts that secure the Leading Rod to the Control Arm -- the nuts are accessable from a large hole at the bottom of the Control Arm.
   
4. If there is a sway bar attached to the Control Arm, remove the bolt holding the straps.
   
5. The Control Arm should swing freely down when you tap it with a hammer -- bringing along the top of the balljoint from the wheel bearing housing.
   
6. Remove the cotter pin from the bottom of the balljoint and unthread the castle nut until it is just below the threads. Tap up with a wood block and hammer until it pops.
   
7. When installing new balljoint, first inject some grease under the rubber boot, and then install the top part into the wheel bearing houseing. Remove the jammed screwdriver and install bolt.
   
8. Now you should be able to manhandle the lower threaded portion into the control arm. If you have difficulty, try turning the steering wheel slightly and then try again.
   
9. Replace remaining bolts and cotter pin.
   

 

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I've done this job twice. :-\ First I used the methods recommended in the "Complete Idiot" book with levers and pry bars. That resulted in my tearing the boot on the new balljoint while fighting against all that springy pressure to get it in. I got about 5,000 miles before my botched job needed to be re-done. That is when I decided to give myself a better chance at success---by removing all attachments to the control arm. Removing those things makes the whole procedure an easy job--- without the need for any special tools.

 

PS: This is the first time I've ever been able to improve on the excellent advice of Larry Owens' "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive -- A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot" If you own a Subaru without owning that book, you are missing 90% of the fun...

 

 

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[MilesFox]

one method which i like to practice, as ina n off the side of the road repar(change axle)

 

loosen the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. thread the nut on backwards so that it is flush with the bottom of the stud.

 

place a jack on the nut and jack it up so that it loads up the sispension. use a 3 lb hammer to tap on the lower control arm on both sides and the tension of the spring will pop the lower control arm down and away from the ball joint

 

use a long bar about 3 ft long, feed it thru under the axle so that it rides along the inside of the raduis rod and wedge it into the radius rod mont. then you can push down on the bar to pop the ball joint stud out of the lower control arm hole(after you take the nut off!)