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Oil inside Second Resonator Air Intake.

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OK. So, I cleaned off the ol' MAF sensor today and my cold idle is back to reasonable (800 instead of 1250) and the giddy up has increased substantially. However, when cleaning the MAF I noticed that the vacuum inlet had, at some point in time, spit out oil into the second resonator air intake. The hose looks like it connects to the PCV valve or somewhere on the intake manifold. Is this a bad sign? I have no idea how that would happen, but left scratching my head. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

Any age of engine will do this, so it's not a sign of total collapse. However, as engine wear increases, the amount of oil that can find it's way up there will also increase.

 

The best way to keep it down is by cleaning the PCV hoses and replacing the PCV valve. At least three hoses need flushing.

If you spend a lot of time with your foot deep into the throttle, you'll get more oil mist backing-up out of the PCV lines.

 

When you're just cruising, manifold vaccum applied to the crankcase will keep the mist moving in the correct direction. Also like Setright says, as the blowby increases with mileage, the problem gets worse.

 

Some folks take care of the problem by splicing a large, clear plastic, inline fuel-filter in the offending PCV line (s). It works as a catch-can and only cost a couple bucks.

  • Author

Thanks for the expeditious replies guys :). Guess I got some work to do on Saturday:-\. Funny, I had a feeling that some of this might cause that. Glad I found this out before my next oil change (this weekend). Will have to run some Yamaha Wring-Free($7 BG 44K) through before then. If I burn a can on a quarter tank, would that sufficiently clean out the old oil that may have been combusted? TIA. May buy plugs as well. Want to get this thing running right before my next trip to New Mexico in a couple of weeks. Also, how much torque on the PCV Valve; Don't want to crack the manifold.

Cruising-Speed.jpg

As a ball park figure 25Nm.

 

I use a torque wrench on most parts, but not the PCV. Just tighten 'til it's snug and won't move without applying muscle.

 

The thread is conical, so it'll seal well at low torque.

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