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Manual tranny knocking noise

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Hi everyone.

 

I'm new here, and this is the first subaru i've owned. I have 95 legacy sedan, 5 spd. I just bought it a week ago, paid 2200, it has a consistent knocking nosie when i'm accelerating. I 've been told by a few people that it is what's called a throw out berring. IT has 120k on it, I'm only the second owner. Any advice? Should I put the money into it, or just drive it this way till it goes? Rest of the car is in great shape..... I'd like to make it last a while....and how hard would the task be if I decided to fix it? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated

Get it fixed right away before it turns into anything more serious. You'll save money in the long run. 120,000 miles seems right for a throwout bearing, so get an opinion on it.

  • Author
Get it fixed right away before it turns into anything more serious. You'll save money in the long run. 120,000 miles seems right for a throwout bearing, so get an opinion on it.

 

 

 

 

Anyone out there that can tell me how complex of a job it is to replace it?

How costly?

Consistent knocking noise? On acceleration?

 

Does not sound like a throw-out bearing to me.

 

Could you describe the sound in more detail?

  • Author
Consistent knocking noise? On acceleration?

 

Does not sound like a throw-out bearing to me.

 

Could you describe the sound in more detail?

 

 

Well, I've been told by two different people that it's a throw out berring. But I'm not a mechanic.. It is a definite knocking noise, but not like a lifter knocking, much faster knocking than that. It goes away when I put my foot in on the clutch(it's a 5 spd.) and sounds the worst in 1st, 2nd,3rd,and 4th. You can still here it in 5th, but it's not as loud. When I purchased the car I was told it had a noise in the tranny, but I got it for a good price, so my intention was to fix it in the future. Does any of that help?

Certainly, good info. However, it leads to bad news: The main bearings inside the transmission are probably worn out. When you press the clutch the pedal down, the gearbox internals STOP moving and that's why the noise disappears.

 

Clutch down means the throw-out is under load and that's when it should be noisy. Which it isn't.

Hi everyone.

 

I'm new here, and this is the first subaru i've owned. I have 95 legacy sedan, 5 spd. I just bought it a week ago, paid 2200, it has a consistent knocking nosie when i'm accelerating. I 've been told by a few people that it is what's called a throw out berring. IT has 120k on it, I'm only the second owner. Any advice? Should I put the money into it, or just drive it this way till it goes? Rest of the car is in great shape..... I'd like to make it last a while....and how hard would the task be if I decided to fix it? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated

 

Ok, im new, but the first thing i had to replace on my 92 legacy was a throwout bearing. (sorry to say at a shop, but i'm still learning) Just to let you know, it was a "whistling" noise that happened when i depressed the clutch, not a knocking noise. Hope that rules out a couple of possibilities

On my dad's 95 legacy, the throwout bearing is going, and it makes a knocking noise. You can tell if it is throwout vs. tranny by lightly touching the clutch pedal, not enough to disengage the clutch, but enough to preload everything in the system. If its the throwout, the noise will go away, but you can still feel it in the pedal. If you're going to replace the throwout bearing, you might as well replace the clutch at the same time. The whole job usually costs from 400 to 800 bucks, depending on where you go. Asuming it is the throwout bearing, you could just ignore it till it goes, but then you will have to learn how to drive it without disengaging the clutch, all the way to the repair shop. Not that hard actually.

  • Author

Thank you everyone for all of your input. Just one more question, is it worth putting that much money into the car?

If you do the job yourself it could cost less than 200 bucks. A 1995 with only 120k is worth putting that money into. Another thing to think about is the suspension. If the struts haven't been replaced ever, 120K is getting close to their expiration date. That will run another 400 bucks DIY. But after that, you will have a car that takes off and handles like new. I can testify to these being fun cars with new struts :grin:

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