The engine has always been fairly powerless, but with the 30" tires it really shows. It is also really boggy off the low end. I spent a few hours getting diagnostic info.

It is a SPFI engine, manual tranny

 

Timing: 8 degrees at 750 rpm with green connectors together. The distributor is about centered in the slotted ears for clamping it down, so I'm wondering why it's so far off. It's supposed to be 20 degrees. The distributor also refuses to rotate, even with encouragement from a hammer. Is there more bolts than the 2 ears?

 

Vacuum: 19" of merc at idle, 21" at 2k rpm and held steady. Took reading from the vacuum line leading to 4wd soleniods because it was convienient.

 

TPS:

Connection pins

Throttle] 1

Body ] 2

] 3

] 4

 

1 and 2 appear to be the idle swich pins, which operates appropriately

3 and 4 appear to be the rheostat, ranging from 4.5 k ohms at Idle to 1.5 k ohms at WOT

2 and 3 range from 0.59 k ohms to 4 k ohms.

 

Are these readings within spec?

I have a Childrens manual, which is very random and vague on the testing procedure.

 

I say its running rich because of lots of black soot in the tailpipe and the exhaust reeks of half burnt HC.

...Timing: 8 degrees at 750 rpm with green connectors together. The distributor is about centered in the slotted ears for clamping it down, so I'm wondering why it's so far off. It's supposed to be 20 degrees. The distributor also refuses to rotate, even with encouragement from a hammer. Is there more bolts than the 2 ears?...

This (and general ignition parts) is where I would start first. Nothing is going to adjust properly if the ignition is not to spec. There are only those 2 10mm-headed bolts on the distributor, and it should turn without the use of that hammer. I wonder if someone Form-A-Gasket'd it in place? :-\

 

I would also check to make sure that the t-belts are aligned properly.

 

Once ignition/cam timing is known good, I would probably check out the coolant thermosensor. You might also want to try out the "unplug the MAF" test that was talked about in starkillers' threads.

Thanks NorthWet.

5 hours of penetrating oil seeped in and I was able to get the distributor to move with the hammer. It is now at 21 degrees, close enough. Engine is much perkier. I replaced cap, rotor, plugs and wires a year ago, hoping that would solve the problem, so it seems that the rest of the ignition is good. The car was dealer serviced untill I got my hands on it. I consider it a dark mark on the Subaru Of Milford mechanics if the base timing was set that far off. It's also a smudge on my record that I failed to pick up on it till now.

 

It still smells like it is running rich, but I'm wondering if I cooked my cat by running the ignition retarded like that.

 

The MAF sensor seems to be good, It's getting 12.5 volts and has a good ground. It puts out 1 volt at idle and 1.5V at 2200 rpm, so it seems to be responding. There's notmuch else other than the injector that could be making this run rich. Mabe the injector is dribbling between cycles?