DaveTV Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Hi gang - while removing my snows and putting my summer tires back on last night, I noticed the rear rotors are rusted and disintegrating, and one of them has been making a scrapin noise - the front rotors/pads were replaced by my shop over the winter. I can get the parts for about 1/3 or less than the price my shop charges me, so I think I may give it a whirl myself. I have replaced the pads on my motorcycle so I am not a total stranger with brakes, but never did disc brakes on a car (did drum brakes when I was younger many times.) So when I had the wheel off, I got out my trusty Haynes Subaru manual to assist my inspection. The first step is to "remove the lower caliper lock pin and swing the caliper up to access the brake pads" -Well I removed the lock pin and it wouldn't swing up - I put a lil pressure, still no go - I didn't want to break anything and couldn't afford to get knee deep in this project on a dark cold night, the lil voice in my head said to put the pin back in , put it back together, finish the tire changover and call it a night till I know more what I am doing. This couldn't be that tough a job, huh? - Any advice appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splicesite Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 yeah disc brake work is super simple on this car, even if you are a stranger to auto repair its still a piece of cake and saves big $$$$$. in a nutshell- the Haynes manual pretty much says it all. remove the lower pin all the way and the caliper should just swing up, it does take a little force sometimes to get it unstuck. dont be afraid to bang on it a bit. if your rotors are really really worn down there may be a lip at the edge of the rotor that the pads are getting stuck on when trying to swing the caliper up. take out the old pads (may need to smack them with a hammer to break them free if they are really rusted down), replace the rotor if needed, when putting the new pads in sometimes its a pain to get the aftermarket pads in the caliper clips but just takes a bit of wiggling. dont forget you will need a c-clamp to push the caliper slider into the caliper to make room for the new pads. you can actually use a pair of large channel-locks to accomplish this as well if you dont have a c-clamp. also a good idea to remove a bit of fluid from the master cylinder before you push the slider in and top it off after the new pads are installed. presto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a97obw Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 I think you'll find that if you use a large C clamp attached to the back side of the caliper and a small piece of wood (paint mixing sticks are great for this) against the outside surface of the brake rotor, then slowly tighten the C clamp, you will force the caliper piston into the caliper bore enough to get the new pads on. Any "lip" edge on the rotor shouldn't be a factor in swinging the caliper upwards as the pads remain in the bracket and do not swing upwards with the caliper. I'd spend the $$ on the OEM Subaru pads as they come with new springs (the metal clips) and backing plates----some you have to apply the supplied grease to the pad backing plates and then put those on the pads, others this is already done for you, but you should get a diagram (in the box of parts) of where to put the grease on the new spring (clips) before you put them in along with the pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splicesite Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Any "lip" edge on the rotor shouldn't be a factor in swinging the caliper upwards as the pads remain in the bracket and do not swing upwards with the caliper.. oh yeah , sorry it was late. duh! anyway just tap the caliper from the inside edge and it should break free and swing up no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveTV Posted March 10, 2006 Author Share Posted March 10, 2006 Yep, it swung up - metal on metal, sho nuff. Just bought the pads/rotors at AutoZone, got their loaner tool for the caliper pistons. going for it tomorrow morning - thanks everyone for the advice, I will hopefully be posting about my success afterwards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveTV Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 OK I'm in the middle of this - my Haynes mentions "shims", but it does not appear to have any shims on these pads - ?? Anyone? THX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splicesite Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 OK I'm in the middle of this - my Haynes mentions "shims", but it does not appear to have any shims on these pads - ?? Anyone? THX Yeah the cheap aftermarket pads dont come with shims. If your old shims fit and are useable still you can try them, but they probably are pretty worn out. You dont really need shims with the aftermarket pads. Their only purpose is to reduce noise. I dont use shims and have had no problem with rattle or other noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveTV Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 All done, buttoned up and and test-drove - excellent:banana: - thanks for all the advice everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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