Hi,

 

I have a question about the brakes on my first subie.

 

Just got it, and just changed all the fluids, out for a test drive, and wanted to check out the job I did on bleeding the brakes with a panic stop.

 

The pedal seemed stiff enough, but I could not get a squeal out of the tires with very hard pedal pressure.... Is this normal? (or am I spoiled with my infiniti g35 sedan "summer" car?)

 

This is a front disk. rear drum setup. I noticed that the front rotors were a bit too smooth for my liking, almost mirror like, although the pads seem to have plenty of meat, about 70% i'd say.

 

Are there any pads out there with increased friction? I'd rather have the rotors wear out than not be able to stop in a panic situation...

 

Thanks in advance for any info...

Larry

Be happy you can't squeal the brakes. It's better to not have wheel lockup, then it is to lock up a wheel and not have control.

 

The rotors shouldn't be super shiny and smooth.....if they are and/or have a blue hue to them, it's possible you overheated the pads, which then transferred pad material onto the rotor (ie. glazing) In which case, stopping power will be reduced. Solution would be to get new rotors, or have the old ones turned.

 

Also, you would probably want to look into a pad with a slightly higher temp range, so you do not glaze the pads again.

There is no sign of blue on the rotors, but I suppose the pads could be glazed. THe rotors are smooth as glass. I should perhaps take the pads off and take a look, and get the rotors turned.

 

If I do this, I am reluctant to put back the original pads, since they may have been involved in the mirror smooth rotors.

 

I just got this car, so I don't know the driving habits of the woman that drove it either, which may be a factor.

 

I have found The best stopping comes from threshold braking, where you hold the braking power to the point at which the wheels turn just before lock up (which can be real light on ice...). But for dry surfaces (and for a note, it was wet when I tried to lock up the brakes), you should be able to do this with some chirping from the tires while they still turn.

Mintex "Red Box" pads, which are a standard replacement pad offer slightly higher friction than OE, and far more resistant to overheating. Find the part no. at http://www.mintex.co.uk

 

Whatever you do, don't get any "fast road pads" like EBC Greenstuff or Mintex M1144. The pad material combination will cause judder within weeks of normal driving, they don't like varying intensity.

 

If you must, go a notch up to Mintex M1155, but be aware that winter temperatures can render these pads a little less effective at the first application. I think Legacy777 is running these?

Yeah I'm running the 1155's. I have zero issues with these pads. They work well cold, they work well hot. Don't think they'd quite hold up to a hard track day like some others, but they work well.

 

I would probably recommend a set of axxis pads, either metalmasters or deluxe plus. They can be had for 30-40 bucks, and will improve braking over stock. I would suggest either sanding down the rotors to rough up the surface and remove any old pad material, or have them turned.

 

Axxis pads can be had from primitive http://www.get-primitive.com, http://www.stoptech.com, and a few other vendors. Call them, because they may not have your application listed on their site.

Thanks,

 

I think i'll go with the metalmasters.... I read somewhere on an internet search that volvo owners were having trouble with the superior axxis pads only in wet weather on the interstate. Perhaps a design thing with volvo that too much water gets in there at high speeds, but I'd rather not take the chance. The guy made a whole web page about them..

 

I can't seem to find a good place in the states to buy the Mintex pads, so metalmasters it is.

 

Larry

Sounds like air in the lines????

having you mechanic power-bleed the lines/mastercyl may be an answer if the new pads don't work:confused: