'93 Legecy, won't start

[buddyepa]

The reason the temp gauge goes up and down is there are air pockets moving through the system. When an air pocket hits the temp probe the needle drops. Then superheated coolant moves under the probe and the needle shots up. If this was my problem I would just bit the bullet and pull both cylinder heads to see exactly what is the problem. Very good chance the problem is a warped head or leaking gasket because the methhead didn't properly torque the head bolts. Didn't you earlier state the engine seemingly ran fine when you first bought the car? If true then this would point to a HG failure. If the air control valve and MAF are the same, PM me your address and I'll mail you an extra one I have.

 

John in KY

 

It did run, but from the git go there was white smoke. But, for $250, it seemed worth the chance. I think you are right and we will take the heads off and see what that reveals. Perhaps MAF terminology came in after '93 when they stuffed the codes in? Thanks for the kind offer, but the MAF "looked" clean and it's symptoms seem to point away from those codes.

 

The changing temperature is probly just what you suggest and bleeding the air should fix that.

 

[buddyepa]

The air control valve is the idle air control valve.

 

To me, both of the codes retrieved wouldn't indicate/cause the problems you are having.

 

I don't recall if this has been asked but are you aware that there is a bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator that must be open to properly bleed the cooling system of air? If this has not been open, open it, and see how things go. However I'd probably suspect a headgasket or similar issue with the symptoms you described.

 

Legacy777

 

Thanks, we will do that. I agree that we need to take the heads off and see what that reveals.

[buddyepa]

I would check to see ig the timing belt is off kilter, when the front main seal blew on my 93 it knocked the timing belt off wack ans caused a similar situation.

QM:banana:

 

Thanks for the input. I will see that we check that. I am open to all and any other suggestions.

 

[9pec]

Error codes in respect of "air control valve" and "purge control solenoid valve"?

 

Hmm.....these codes can be something else altogether. Not related to the coolant/head gasket issue but nonetheless maybe one of the factor contributing towards what's happening.

 

On my 97 Forester the purge solenoid is beneath the intake manifold near the throttlebody. There is vacuum hose going from the manifold to the solenoid and then coming out from the solenoid going to somewhere else (the solenoid is a vacuum/pressure switch).

 

At one time my engine will cough and choked and die and throw a code every now and then but not always. I eventually discovered that the vacuum hose going from the manifold to the solenoid has cracked. When I tried replacing it I then discovered that the one of the hose-connecion-nipple on the solenoid itself has actually broken-off! I got that fixed and the engine runs smooth as hell after that. My boost/vaccum gauge reading wasn't very stable at that tome so that has helped me to identify the problem quickly.

 

Now if your car has similar problem (maybe the purge solenoid is leaking, stucked or failed entirely) this seems to explain the 2 codes. I think the idle air control valve will attempt to compensate the manifold vacuum leak and eventually the out-of-range compensation will cause an error code as well. On my Forester the idle air control valve ("IAT") is right next to the throttle body, light brown in color.

 

Meanwhile, just some thoughts reading through the posts:-

 

On boxer engines isn't there a coolant cross-over-pipe running across underneath the intake manifold? Perhaps there is leak on this pipe or it's gasket? Isn't the coolant temp sensor located on this piece?

 

Since there is a head gasket work done earlier, and if things aren't put-back together properly.........well, I just thought pulling the heads will require taking off the manifold anyway so if the problem can be identified without actually having to take apart the heads would surely be good!

 

I know, still it doesn't explain the exhaust smell in the radiator, so keep the finger crossed!

[buddyepa]

epec

 

Thanks for the suggestions. We only get to mess with it when stepson is off work(weekends) and I am not working on my '65 Vette. These Soobs are different beasts.

 

[buddyepa]

Interestingly, the car has decided it will start now. We now need to locate a used head for the passenger side. It seems that both cylinders on that side are sending exhaust gas into the cooling system. Even with that situation, the engine runs very smoothly. I would have expected a very roughly running engine.

 

Anyone have a suggestion about where to find a head? :-\

[9pec]

Great! You have found the cause!

 

Has the head cracked? Hmm....probably just a blown head gasket?

[buddyepa]

Great! You have found the cause!

 

Has the head cracked? Hmm....probably just a blown head gasket?

 

 

Personally, I think a cracked head is a good possibility. We found one locally for $150. On advice, we will likely wait until we clear up one error code, pull the head, check it for warp and then decide what to do.