LostinSubaru Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 This is my first Soob and couldn't have been happier with it until just recently on about a 35mi. trip to fris-golf, I lost some power, clicking noise in left head area, and steady but rocky idle( as in the engine idles so low, it rocks the car, but continues to idle evenly). I continued the trip there and back with no further change. Replaced plugs, wires, and coil pack with no difference. Tried to receive codes from my "CEL" but it doesn't seem to recognize any(or at least from what I know about Soobs or ECU's, which is next to nil. It doesn't blink when it's not supposed to). Ran a comp. test and recorded that No.3 has NONE! Last plug pulled before replacement was covered immensely in (what I believe ) oil and gas. Sparking for that plug would have been impossible due to both electrodes being bridged together with oil-gas sludge. Fed a little oil thru the plug hole and repeated test with no change. So I think I'm down to the Valvetrain or possibly head and encompassed gaskets. If I attempt to "man" this out myself, it will be my 2nd head replacement ATTEMPT ( the first on a 83' toyota sr22EFI ) and I've got some available hands-on support and tools from friends who are automotively experienced, though not with Soobs. So some of my current questions are: Do I need to pull the motor to replace the left head? Can or should I replace one head without replacing or rebuilding the other? Can or should I replace any "bad" valve without replacing the rest? If this is a problem in the No.3 Combustion chamber, shouldn't the ECU report some sort of error code? I don't want to pull anything apart just to have to pay someone else to fix it, but if it's not anything a commonly sensible man with common tools couldn't hack, then I'd be willing to invest 40 of my own weekend hours as opposed to 10 mechanic hours and save the $800. ( providing that I can tap "USMB" now and then, of course ) I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or similar experiences that anyone may have to offer. I tried to practice independance and self-sufficiency, but sometimes I don't really have the time to learn ALL the lessons the hard way. Thanks for your time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 You can do the head without pulling the motor, however it's a little more cramped. You're probably right about it being a valve type issue. The bottom ends tend to be pretty stout, but without removing the head, you really don't know. The CEL isn't going to be displayed because OBD1 ECU's are a little limited, and if the issues is mechanical, the ECU isn't going to really know that anything is wrong. Newer OBD2 ECU's that detect misfires on particular cylinders would probably have thrown a code. Just curious....how were you pulling the codes from the ECU? I've got instructions on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Also, here's some pics from my engine rebuild, which may give you some idea of how things are put together and confidence of doing the work yourself. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostinSubaru Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Legacy777... Thank you for your reply and links. Your pics on your rebuilt is the best visual support I've seen yet. I must commend your thoroughness and accuracy. Thanks also for the confirmation that I'm on the right track so far. I will begin the head removal as early as tomorrow once I get it to the operating table (a.k.a. gf's father's garage). About the codes, I believe I learned the majority of my ECU knowledge from the same link you referred me to but I will explain MY process just in case "I" missed something. I started by warming engine to operating temp. Then I killed engine and began connecting the "BLACK" connectors only and turning ignition to on (without engine start) and observing my "CEL" on the left-hand side of instrument panel with other "Idiot Lights", I believe they're referred to. My "CEL" illuminated briefly with the other "I" light's and the initial beeps of the seatbelt indicator, then went off with everything else and that's it. I then "Disco'd" the blacks, and "conn'd" only the greens together, turned key to on, and "CEL" blinked evenly and continously. Thankful for that( I think...), I continued by depressing gas pedal to floor then 1\2 back for at least 2-3 sec. and then starting engine. "CEL" continued to blink evenly still. I then drove my car for about 6min. on city and hwy. making sure to stay above 7mph. and in "4th" or above for at least 2min. then returned home. The whole time my "CEL" did nothing other than blink evenly and continously till I finally removed the key therefore accepting that my "ECU" had "NOTHING" it thought I should know. That's pretty much the extent of my "ECU" knowledge and exp. If I'm missing something or you have better ideas, please feel free to elaborate (Time permitting, of course ). I will continue to post with my progress, but the majority of my time invested will be on the weekend's. Once again, thanks and I appreciate your time. Rob Also, I forgot to mention previously that my ej22 is "not" turbo'd, though I'm thinking(hoping) that's not gonna alter my process much, if any. "Right", I hope..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 For your code retrieval process. It sounds right. The only thing that is a little odd is that the CEL did not blink a steady all clear when you connected the black diagnostic connectors only. Being that your ej22 is not turbo'd, that shouldn't change much....if anything it'll be easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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