Stereo install update

[kdixey]

The deed is done and I have tunes in "brownie". I pulled the old aftermarket deck that only worked if you hit the brakes and have a brand new sony in dash CD with a pair of 4" speakers in the front in the factory holes and soon to have a new set of 5.25" in the rear (and maybe a set of 6x9's in the tailgate if I get ambitious.

 

The speakers were glued in and needed a lot of "encouragement" to let loose. The constant power from the battery was gone and the fact that the color coded wires looked like they had been rewired by someone that was color blind made finding things a real challenge. The $6 testing light was the best advice I got.

 

I ended up having to run a new line from the battery to power the deck (basically replacing the one that was AWOL). A little electrical tape, some zip ties and decent pair of strippers and your in business. After this experieince, my own advice on install is...

 

1. Use twist on cable nuts. If you put them on correctly they do a great job and they can be removed if need be (don't forget to electrical tape it afterward)

 

2. When in doubt rewire. It's easier than putting a new exhaust on or retrofitting seats

 

3. Run new wire to the speakers. The door panels come off easily and the factory wire is 20 years old anyway. Remember that 18 guage is fine if you are not using an amp. Most wiring harnesses have 18 guage in them and fancy phoenix gold (or what-have-you) won't sound any better if you are connecting to the deck with 18 guage. If you plan to add an amp later then upgrading the wire is a good idea.

 

4. Attach the new speaker wire to the old wire and yank it through to save some grief.

 

Now if I an find the illumination circuit I can have the deck's incredibly BRIGHT light dim with the interior illumination.

 

Kevin