Hi, I drive a 98 MT Outback with 138,000 clicks, and the clutch pedal is starting to stick, i.e. I have to lift the pedal manually with my foot to disengage. Once I do this the car runs fine. The problem is worse in 1st and reverse, especially the latter... I really have to work the stick to get it in reverse, which has always been a minor problem but is really bad now.

 

The alternative is to wait a couple of seconds - sometimes the pedal "pops" back up, but of course this isn't an option during constant shifting. Priming the pedal at idle doesn't seem to help, fluid level is OK.

 

The dealer can't get me in for a few days, so I'm wondering if this is a minor problem that can be handled by a standard repair shop. Also, I bought the extended warranty and I'm wondering if something like this might be covered, based on the posts I've read it may or may not be.

 

thanks!

This is a known Subaru problem see service bulletin # 03-52-03R. Basically the bulletin has you install an updated clutch slave cylinder and clutch hose. I've seen a few of these need clutch master cylinders as well. I'd play it safe and replace the clutch master cylinder while your there.

for the reply. I can now go to the dealership and reference the Bulletin # as well.

 

The problem seems to have worsened since my last post - I can't get the car into gear at idle! I have to kill the engine, shift into 1st, restart and gun before it stalls. As long as the engine is on I can't shift into any gears.

 

So at this point the car is undriveable, in retrospect I'm surprised I made it home from work last night (~20kms).

 

I'm getting it towed to the dealership later today, I'll let you know what happens...

dodjie:

 

I also have a 98 outback and I just started having this clutch sticking problem at 60,000 miles.

 

Can you tell me:

 

how long from the time you noticed it to the time you you couldn't drive the car and had to have it towed?

 

was it covered by your warranty?

 

if not, how much it cost?

 

 

thanks.

This may be anomolous, but when my Forester did this, it was the dust boot that covers the hole where the clutch control arm enters the bellhousing, dislodged and causing the arm to bind. Worth looking at... -- George

thanks george--I'll take a look at that.

pumping the clutch about 25 times will often get it to the point you can at least drive it home.

Mine needed the master cyl. I fitted the TSB slave, hose and washers and still not enough pressure.

It has been fine for about a year now.

Make sure you have enough fluid in the clutch master cyl of course.

Bleeding is also a last resort fix sometimes, but won't last if the master or slave is on the way out.

Mine just started this about a week ago. It's a 98 Legacy OBW, 104K miles, just had the clutch replaced about 8 months ago.

 

I saw a message over at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/ where they mentioned it could be air bubbles in the system. I'd be real happy if that turned out to be the problem because I don't have a lot of spare money to be replacing stuff, but somehow I doubt it's anything that simple.

 

Does anyone know a website that has the text of the TSB? I'm not mechanical but I'd still like to read it so I know what I'm going to mention to the dealer.

FillG

 

 

I just spoke to a subaru service guy and he mentioned that he'd have to look up the service bulletin on the problem, so I guess he's seen this before. he said it would cost somewheres around $100. Someone else mentioned in these forums that they had the problem and it was caused by a dust boot sticking.

 

good luck.

jschram -

 

The problem was very sudden - the clutch began to stick some time in the afternoon, and was undriveable the next morning.

 

Wasn't covered under warranty - repairs due to normal wear-and-tear aren't covered dontcha know.

 

So I ended up having the clutch replaced, I got a bit of a deal on the labour but still ended up spending ~$800 CAD. I don't recall the exact parts that needed replacement, but I can fish out the invoice if you're interested.

I had the same problem with my 98 (especially in hot weather, beep & creep traffic) and had the both the master and slave cylinders replaced with no improvement. My dealer called SOA and found that the system can't be pressure-bled since it leaves air in a pocket in the master cylinder. It has to be "gravity-bled" - crack one of the fittings and let the air bubble out naturally.