Rear Wheel Bearing - 2000 Forester

[howards11]

I might have a bad rear wheel bearing.

I followed the treads here and I understand to use a 2000 Legacy bearing as a replacement.

 

I have one question: Should I have my mechanic replace the other (not bad) side too ?

 

Does anyone have any other suggestions on this matter ?

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

~Howard

[aircraft engineer]

Well... IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT (unless you have a reason to suspect the other bearing is "bad" too)

 

Check it out and see IF it's bad, too. IF it turns ROUGH at all, it's bad.

 

You can tell a lot with an automotive stethoscope and a "ride down the road". The "shriek" is "noticeable" at about 35 or so depending on how bad the bearing is. Listen at the rear shock tower if you can get access to it - metal makes a great "sounding board"

 

A "quick" way to replace a bearing is to do the whole "housing" (some call it a "knuckle"). Find one in a JY and pull it (or both) off.

 

Trailing arm bolt, long bolt, both strut bolts, axle nut - pops right out (assuming you AREN'T IN THE RUST/SALT BELT OOPS - you ARE, so you might have "problems" particularly with the long bolt) trailing arm is 17mm (take this one off FIRST), strut bolts (take off LAST, put on FIRST, loosely to hold it all up) are 19mm as is the long bolt (Take off THIRD - might be 17 but I seem to remember 19), axle nut is 32mm (take off SECOND). impact tools make the job a lot faster - both "off" and "on" - electric battery operated impact for the JY REALLY saves time.

 

have "fun" (using the term "loosely") Find one/two "identical" and you can just do a "swap out"

 

new bearings are about $65 each (aftermarket) more for OEM. NSK bearings seem to be the "norm" for "new" bearings. IF you (your mechanic) don't have the equipment to press the roller bearings out/in you will likely wreck it ("out" doesn't matter that much since it will be "dead" but it is a tight fit). They aren't "fragile" but they are "touchy" about pressing the outer races only. tell the mechanic to remember to wash and REPACK the bearings before installation

[howards11]

Well... IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT (unless you have a reason to suspect the other bearing is "bad" too)

 

Check it out and see IF it's bad, too. IF it turns ROUGH at all, it's bad.

 

You can tell a lot with an automotive stethoscope and a "ride down the road". The "shriek" is "noticeable" at about 35 or so depending on how bad the bearing is. Listen at the rear shock tower if you can get access to it - metal makes a great "sounding board"

 

A "quick" way to replace a bearing is to do the whole "housing" (some call it a "knuckle"). Find one in a JY and pull it (or both) off.

 

Trailing arm bolt, long bolt, both strut bolts, axle nut - pops right out (assuming you AREN'T IN THE RUST/SALT BELT OOPS - you ARE, so you might have "problems" particularly with the long bolt) trailing arm is 17mm (take this one off FIRST), strut bolts (take off LAST, put on FIRST, loosely to hold it all up) are 19mm as is the long bolt (Take off THIRD - might be 17 but I seem to remember 19), axle nut is 32mm (take off SECOND). impact tools make the job a lot faster - both "off" and "on" - electric battery operated impact for the JY REALLY saves time.

 

have "fun" (using the term "loosely") Find one/two "identical" and you can just do a "swap out"

 

new bearings are about $65 each (aftermarket) more for OEM. NSK bearings seem to be the "norm" for "new" bearings. IF you (your mechanic) don't have the equipment to press the roller bearings out/in you will likely wreck it ("out" doesn't matter that much since it will be "dead" but it is a tight fit). They aren't "fragile" but they are "touchy" about pressing the outer races only. tell the mechanic to remember to wash and REPACK the bearings before installation

 

AIRCRAFT ENGINEER:

 

Thanks for your suggestions !!

The noise is there at about 40 MPH from the passenger side rear.

 

~Howard

[hohieu]

Agree with with A/E about leaving the other side alone. However, due to unusually high rates of rear wheel bearing failures on early Foresters, Subaru released an updated low force service procedure using Hub Tamer type tools. I purchased a set and the job was quite easy after dealing with that lateral link pinch bolt.

 

I replaced a bad passenger side rear wheel bearing on my 99 Forester last year, 4th bearing on this corner over 118K miles. The original owner had the new tapered roller bearings installed just before I purchased the car.

 

I noticed the noise shortly after purchasing the car, and I drove it for another 45K miles before replacing the faulty bearing -- noise got louder, but there was never any play.

 

You can also feel a bad bearing by putting lifting the car up and turning the wheel with one hand and placing your other hand on the coil spring. Any roughness in the bearing will be transmitted to the coil spring, where you'll feel some vibration.

 

How many miles do you have on your car and are you the original owner? Just wondering if you still have the orginal caged ball bearings in the rear.

[howards11]

Agree with with A/E about leaving the other side alone. However, due to unusually high rates of rear wheel bearing failures on early Foresters, Subaru released an updated low force service procedure using Hub Tamer type tools. I purchased a set and the job was quite easy after dealing with that lateral link pinch bolt.

 

I replaced a bad passenger side rear wheel bearing on my 99 Forester last year, 4th bearing on this corner over 118K miles. The original owner had the new tapered roller bearings installed just before I purchased the car.

 

I noticed the noise shortly after purchasing the car, and I drove it for another 45K miles before replacing the faulty bearing -- noise got louder, but there was never any play.

 

You can also feel a bad bearing by putting lifting the car up and turning the wheel with one hand and placing your other hand on the coil spring. Any roughness in the bearing will be transmitted to the coil spring, where you'll feel some vibration.

 

How many miles do you have on your car and are you the original owner? Just wondering if you still have the orginal caged ball bearings in the rear.

 

HOHIEU:

I am the 2nd owner. The car has 61,000 original miles.

I bought it when it was 3 yrs. old and at 25,500 miles. I believe I have the original bearings.

 

~Howard

[hohieu]

Ok, then it's probably a matter of time for the other side, but it doesn't make any sense to pre-emptively replace it if it's not making noise.

 

On my car, the previous owner went through two sets (both sides) of those caged ball bearings in the rear over the first 60K miles. Subaru had already revised the parts, grease, and install procedure in August 2001 when he had them replaced again at a dealer, and they seem to be holding up pretty well.

 

I may have an out of round housing one the rear passenger side caused by one of the previous installs, which resulted in premature failgure of even the revised bearing -- will just have to wait and see how long the one I put in lasts.

 

Another thing to check is the polished surface on the outer CV joint. If it's pitted and rough, it'll just eat up the new inner seals allowing contaminants in and grease to leak out, decreasing the service life of the bearing.

[howards11]

Ok, then it's probably a matter of time for the other side, but it doesn't make any sense to pre-emptively replace it if it's not making noise.

 

On my car, the previous owner went through two sets (both sides) of those caged ball bearings in the rear over the first 60K miles. Subaru had already revised the parts, grease, and install procedure in August 2001 when he had them replaced again at a dealer, and they seem to be holding up pretty well.

 

I may have an out of round housing one the rear passenger side caused by one of the previous installs, which resulted in premature failgure of even the revised bearing -- will just have to wait and see how long the one I put in lasts.

 

Another thing to check is the polished surface on the outer CV joint. If it's pitted and rough, it'll just eat up the new inner seals allowing contaminants in and grease to leak out, decreasing the service life of the bearing.

 

HOHIEU:

 

I'm confused.

CV joint in the rear ? I thought they were only in the front.

Do you suggest using the Legacy version of the rear bearings as most of the previous threads suggest ?

Thanks again for your suggestions !

 

~Howard

[hohieu]

Subaru all wheel drive vehicle so there are 4 cv half shafts. On front wheel drive vehicles, you have only two in the front. Four wheel drive vehicles with solid axles, like my 91 cherokee, have no cv half shafts.

 

If you get an OEM wheel bearing from the dealer, it'll be the updated tapered roller bearing made by NSK, which are also used on the Legacies so you don't need to specifically order a Legacy bearing. Unless you're buying new old stock, you'll get the updated bearing.

 

As an aside, I used Koyo (an OEM supplier for Toyota and many other cars) bearings from RockAuto. Like NSK bearings, they're made according to metric units in Japan and have worked just fine for me. They actually supply one of the OEM T-belt idlers for Subarus.

 

These bearings should theoretically last forever if properly installed, but what happens is that the hub seals fail allowing grease to leak out and contaminants to leak into the bearing. This is why it's important to check the polished surface of the outer cv joint on which the seals slide.

 

The only question left is whether to repack the bearings. Subaru says no in their updated installation procedure, but there remains some debate on this issue. If you repack with a quality grease, you can't go wroing. I use Mobil 1 red grease because it's readily available and not all that expensive.

[howards11]

Thanks to everyone with their suggesstions and help. My mechanic said that it was very labor intensive and his bill reflected that too.

 

The total cost.........parts...............labor..............tax..........was

 

(Everyone please sit down)

 

 

$390.00

 

I should have taken some auto shop classes instead of being all academic in high school. But that was back in the days when the wheel was just invented.

 

Once again thaks to everyone for their help !

 

~Howard

[aircraft engineer]

Well, it isn't like you weren't warned. Bearing about $70, the rest labor - it took ME the better part of 5 hours to do the FIRST one I did (not including pulling the one out at the JY).

 

Later ones won't take nearly so long (caged ball bearings with LOTS of grease) and I have ALL the equipment necessary.

 

and as to the repack or not question - I add as much "extra" grease as I can stuff into the bearing. Grease coming "out" means that water can't go IN

[hohieu]

Glad you got it done. That price sounds about right. I bought a Hub Tamer set, a bearing, and seals for about $250, and with some time, it's worthwhile to do the job yourself if you are so inclined.

 

If you get an OEM wheel bearing from the dealer, it'll be the updated tapered roller bearing made by NSK...

Correction: OEM Subaru wheel bearings are made by NTN, Corp., which recommends a grease fill of approximately 30% of the free space inside the bearing. Overfilling a bearing can cause it to overheat.

 

See: www.ntnamerica.com/faq.htm

[howards11]

Glad you got it done. That price sounds about right. I bought a Hub Tamer set, a bearing, and seals for about $250, and with some time, it's worthwhile to do the job yourself if you are so inclined.

 

 

Correction: OEM Subaru wheel bearings are made by NTN, Corp., which recommends a grease fill of approximately 30% of the free space inside the bearing. Overfilling a bearing can cause it to overheat.

 

See: www.ntnamerica.com/faq.htm

 

HOHIEU:

 

Trust me I am not inclined to do this job myself. I once glued my hand to the inside of a toilet using Crazy Glue while attempting a repair.

 

That shows you my mechanical ability.

 

~Howard

[hohieu]

It's good to be able to laugh at yourself.

[howards11]

It's good to be able to laugh at yourself.

 

HOHIEU:

 

I did a minor plumbing repair a few years back; repack the washing machine hook-ups. Simple job.

My daughter who knows my abilities said "I'll alert the ambulance."

 

~Howard

[aircraft engineer]

HOHIEU:

 

I did a minor plumbing repair a few years back; repack the washing machine hook-ups. Simple job.

My daughter who knows my abilities said "I'll alert the ambulance."

 

~Howard

 

2 hose washers (or 4 if you did both ends?) Have a pump truck standing by just in case?

 

"Hey sweetheart - have you seen my Vise Grips?..."

 

RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!!

[howards11]

2 hose washers (or 4 if you did both ends?) Have a pump truck standing by just in case?

 

"Hey sweetheart - have you seen my Vise Grips?..."

 

RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!!

 

AIRCRAFT ENGINEER:

No washers. These things are called boiler taps; one for hot and one for cold. You have to repack them with plumbers tape around the knuckle or it leaks from there. My darling wife never told me they were leaking until I noticed the whole laundry room floor was soaked.

 

We now have some other type of hook up in our new home that turns on both the hot and the cold water at the same time and does not require repacking. The downside to this is that when it goes bad some years down the road the WHOLE contraption has to be replaced which will require my plumber.

 

 

~Howard

[aircraft engineer]

That's why I went to 1/4 turn replacements from Home Depot (I can DO it, I'm just "lazy" - too lazy to replace faucet washers - go find the master shut off - yup, know it well - BOTH of them - inside the garage and outside the house as well at the meter)

 

Yeah, understand - you were inside the hose bib replacing the washers.

 

With your stated level of "mechanicism" you're lucky the whole house didn't float away.

 

$390 was "cheap"

 

Oh- by the way - even the mechanically inclined among us can do "things" to themselves - I once stapled my hand to the roof when laying new shingles with a staple gun. Went thru the web between the thumb and index finger. Lucky I had a pair of snips with me to cut the staple.

 

Or removing exhaust system under the car on a creeper. Whacking a bolt toward me with a small sledge, missed and hit myself right between the eyes (broke my glasses in 2 at the bridge - art least I under the face shield so no "lasting damage" - "gee what pretty stars - and it's only 3pm")

[howards11]

That's why I went to 1/4 turn replacements from Home Depot (I can DO it, I'm just "lazy" - too lazy to replace faucet washers - go find the master shut off - yup, know it well - BOTH of them - inside the garage and outside the house as well at the meter)

 

Yeah, understand - you were inside the hose bib replacing the washers.

 

With your stated level of "mechanicism" you're lucky the whole house didn't float away.

 

$390 was "cheap"

 

Oh- by the way - even the mechanically inclined among us can do "things" to themselves - I once stapled my hand to the roof when laying new shingles with a staple gun. Went thru the web between the thumb and index finger. Lucky I had a pair of snips with me to cut the staple.

 

Or removing exhaust system under the car on a creeper. Whacking a bolt toward me with a small sledge, missed and hit myself right between the eyes (broke my glasses in 2 at the bridge - art least I under the face shield so no "lasting damage" - "gee what pretty stars - and it's only 3pm")

 

Aircraft Engineer:

I'm an accountant by profession. I have an agreement with my plumber.

I won't try any additional plumbing and he won't do taxes !

 

~Howard

[aircraft engineer]

Old sign at Shakey's Pizza

 

"We have an agreement with the bank -

 

we won't cash checks

 

and they won't make pizza!"

 

Actually, I could be a mechanic - I used to do all my own work on my plane, too.

 

Just never bothered to get the A&P license.

 

And upon getting older, I'm less inclined to get my hands REALLY dirty (as in up to my elbows in GREASE!!) unless I want to do it (but what the heck offsetting $100/hour seems like good enough pay to me) :-p have to find some excuse to keep buying these TOOLS

[four-fleet-feet]

:-p have to find some excuse to keep buying these TOOLS

He's quite right - if Harbor Freight had apartments above, he'd own two - one for him, one for his tools.

 

If he wants them to go with him when he shuffles off, we'll need two BIG D-4 Cats to make the hole, let alone shove the tools in, which should wake him up, the sacrilege of that tool wastage

 

I do wish *some* people knew when to say when, since I've seen the aftermath of 'I can do that, you know, cheaper, move aside' more than I want to admit (and I won't say who was doing the work, but I think you can guess - I do believe twice it was replacing a set of S-10 plug wires and *gasp* wrong 'bout what went where both times)

 

Yes, siree, women are sometimes right about things mechanical: if we can't do it, WE PAY or READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! (ducks and runs)

[aircraft engineer]

Gotta love a sarcastic younger sister...

[hohieu]

Aircraft Engineer:

I'm an accountant by profession. I have an agreement with my plumber. I won't try any additional plumbing and he won't do taxes !

~Howard

 

Had I known this a couple of weeks ago, we could have bartered services. As a grad student, my taxes are unduly complicated -- will spare you the self-inflicted physical harm stories...

[howards11]

Had I known this a couple of weeks ago, we could have bartered services. As a grad student, my taxes are unduly complicated -- will spare you the self-inflicted physical harm stories...

 

HOHIEU:

Your taxes can't possibly be that complicated.

 

~Howard

[hohieu]

The government does not write the tax code for graduate students, whose fellowship and grant income can be filed (and interpretted) in multiple ways. As an accoutant, I imagine that your job is not only to know the rules, but to also interpret the rules in a manner that minimizes both taxes paid and the likelihood of an IRS audit. The magic is in the interpretation, never in the cold hard facts.

 

My only question: do these guys :banana: keep the IRS away?

[howards11]

The government does not write the tax code for graduate students, whose fellowship and grant income can be filed (and interpretted) in multiple ways. As an accoutant, I imagine that your job is not only to know the rules, but to also interpret the rules in a manner that minimizes both taxes paid and the likelihood of an IRS audit. The magic is in the interpretation, never in the cold hard facts.

 

My only question: do these guys :banana: keep the IRS away?

 

HOHIEU:

You have to be conservative in your interpretation and make sure your person brushes up on any special rules that might apply to your unique situation (fellowships, etc)

 

~Howard