Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

EJ25 in 1997 Outback Wagon warning flashers


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 BY Mechanic

BY Mechanic

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Johnson City, TN

Posted 18 June 2011 - 12:21 PM

Just relpaced my 1998 EJ25 with a 97 EJ25. Hooked up the battery and the warning flashers are blinking. Why are they flashing and how do I stop them?:-\

#2 davebugs

davebugs

    I don't "friend"

  • Members
  • 3,112 posts
  • Pittsburgh suburbs (NE)

Posted 18 June 2011 - 12:33 PM

You've set of fthe alarm. Slow 4way blinking is the symptom. Ironically you can still start and drive the car!

Look for a little black button under the dash. If you're lucky it's by the hood release mounted. If you're unlucky it's in a mess of wires under the steering column under the dash. A generic black button often taped up with electrical tape making it even harder to find.

I think htere is a way to cycle the key a bunch of times or something. BUt I always figure I need the find the button anyways to program keyfob's if needed.

#3 WoodsWagon

WoodsWagon

    Formerly 91Loyale

  • Members
  • 3,948 posts
  • NH

Posted 19 June 2011 - 07:25 AM

There's often instructions on a yellow sticker on the upper radiator support next to the battery on how to reset the alarm.

#4 BY Mechanic

BY Mechanic

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Johnson City, TN

Posted 20 June 2011 - 07:19 AM

Thanks all, found the push button switch under the dash and followed the directions on the yellow label. Engine starts and runs great, just waiting for the oil leaks to appear.

#5 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,941 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 26 June 2011 - 01:40 AM

You can also remove the negative battery terminal, place the key to the ignition on position, and put the battery terminal back on with it still at ign on to trick the alarm/keyless system.

#6 BY Mechanic

BY Mechanic

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Johnson City, TN

Posted 27 June 2011 - 06:43 AM

Thanks ShawnW.

Hey does anyone have a way to remove frozen front ball joint retaining bolts intact? I don't want to twist the head off the right side bolt too!

#7 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,611 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 27 June 2011 - 07:59 PM

heat, plenty of penetrant, and SLOWWWWWWWW even torque with a long bar. Do not twist the bolt faster than it can turn. Rust is a M*F. Be prepared to pull the whole knuckle. IF the bolt breaks, you can be successful with a drill and a bench vise. Be sure to clean allt he rust out of the socket, and use plenty of anti-seize

or use a pickle fork if not replacing it.

If the bolt is turning, work it back and forth to run the rust off the threads. Usually bolts will break off at the point where the exposed threads make it into the bore threads, and stop up the whole works.

#8 BY Mechanic

BY Mechanic

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Johnson City, TN

Posted 28 June 2011 - 07:41 AM

Thanks MilesFox I'm right in the middle of the mess, I thought I learned from the 1st Suby.

#9 BY Mechanic

BY Mechanic

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 9 posts
  • Johnson City, TN

Posted 28 June 2011 - 09:35 AM

Managed to strip the threads in the block when I over torqued the head bolts when I was reassembling my EJ25. Thought I would try a helicoil kit but the recessed threads require an increased clearance hole diameter. I have no problem doing it but wondered if anyone had successfully tried it before? Are the helicoil thread inserts strong enough to hold the head tight. I need to thread # 3, 4 and 6.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users