BY Mechanic Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Just relpaced my 1998 EJ25 with a 97 EJ25. Hooked up the battery and the warning flashers are blinking. Why are they flashing and how do I stop them?:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 You've set of fthe alarm. Slow 4way blinking is the symptom. Ironically you can still start and drive the car! Look for a little black button under the dash. If you're lucky it's by the hood release mounted. If you're unlucky it's in a mess of wires under the steering column under the dash. A generic black button often taped up with electrical tape making it even harder to find. I think htere is a way to cycle the key a bunch of times or something. BUt I always figure I need the find the button anyways to program keyfob's if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 There's often instructions on a yellow sticker on the upper radiator support next to the battery on how to reset the alarm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BY Mechanic Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks all, found the push button switch under the dash and followed the directions on the yellow label. Engine starts and runs great, just waiting for the oil leaks to appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 You can also remove the negative battery terminal, place the key to the ignition on position, and put the battery terminal back on with it still at ign on to trick the alarm/keyless system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BY Mechanic Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Thanks ShawnW. Hey does anyone have a way to remove frozen front ball joint retaining bolts intact? I don't want to twist the head off the right side bolt too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 heat, plenty of penetrant, and SLOWWWWWWWW even torque with a long bar. Do not twist the bolt faster than it can turn. Rust is a M*F. Be prepared to pull the whole knuckle. IF the bolt breaks, you can be successful with a drill and a bench vise. Be sure to clean allt he rust out of the socket, and use plenty of anti-seize or use a pickle fork if not replacing it. If the bolt is turning, work it back and forth to run the rust off the threads. Usually bolts will break off at the point where the exposed threads make it into the bore threads, and stop up the whole works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BY Mechanic Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Thanks MilesFox I'm right in the middle of the mess, I thought I learned from the 1st Suby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BY Mechanic Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Managed to strip the threads in the block when I over torqued the head bolts when I was reassembling my EJ25. Thought I would try a helicoil kit but the recessed threads require an increased clearance hole diameter. I have no problem doing it but wondered if anyone had successfully tried it before? Are the helicoil thread inserts strong enough to hold the head tight. I need to thread # 3, 4 and 6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.