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Brat Distributor and connections


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Kenichi

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 08:26 AM

Kenichi here with a head scratcher about the '78 Pink Brat my daughter inherited from her grandfather.  I was told that this Brat had a starter problem and that it needed some expensive part to get it running.  On closer inspection, it appears that the problem might have something to do with the distributor and wire connections.  Here's what I observe:  a pink and white wire coming from the distributor.  It appears that there needs to be a connector that this will plug into the main harness by the coil, but there is no such thing and it was all disconnected.  My mechanic friend that is helping me thought that it might be the wrong distributor.  Seems unlikely.  Does anyone have a clue what might be missing and/or where I might find such an item,  or perhaps have some advice to solve this in some creative way?  

This old Brat is in very good condition.  A little paint oxidation but very straight interior and exterior. I just towed it from Yuma, Arizona (where it had been stored for almost 20 years) to my place near San Diego. I have put some new tires on it so I wouldn't have any problems towing it and don't want to put any more money into it until I can figure out this electrical puzzle.  If anyone can offer some of your wisdom and know-how I'd be much obliged.  And my daughter will as well.  Thanks!



#2 naru

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 05:44 PM

Sounds like the ignition module might be missing.

http://www.rockauto....1638&cc=1267624

 

Sorta rare.Late 70s(1980?) California cars only.



#3 Kenichi

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 07:54 PM

Many thanks Naru.  You were a great help.  I have ordered the ICM and will let you know how it goes.  I really appreciate your help.



#4 djcommie

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 02:11 PM

There are two ignition modules for the electronic cars: Hitachi was on the automatics, and Nippon Denso for the manuals. The modules are different, and the Denso one is inside the distributor. They have different distributor caps so its not really possible to mistake them. The Hitachi only has the magnetic VR sensor in it with a long cable ending in a T shaped connector and goes to the module via cable running back along the firewall, the Denso has ring terminals on a short cable and has its ignitor module inside the distributor itself.


Edited by djcommie, 20 June 2014 - 02:12 PM.


#5 Kenichi

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Posted 11 October 2014 - 12:09 PM

I really appreciate the tips on what I needed and where to find them.  Rock Auto was a great find.  Thanks Naru.  So my pink Brat is running!  Unfortunately not very well.  The compression is good and everything checks out.  It idles well and runs fairly well at full throttle, but stumbles, hesitates and is very jerky at mid throttle and and when taking off in first gear and right after shifting.  I've been reading about the problems with the carbs and even though I had it rebuilt, it is tough to drive and is going to be very difficult for my daughter to drive.  It did pass smog so that's a good thing.  If I switch out the carb for a Weber it probably won't pass smog.  So other than selling it to someone in another state, does anybody have any suggestions of things I might try?  I'd be much obliged.  I would love to get this running well for my daughter since it was gifted to her by her grandfather and it is in amazingly good physical condition.  No rust or dents. Even the AM radio still works!  Any thoughts from the brain trust?



#6 spicypeanut

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Posted 14 October 2014 - 01:17 PM

My rebuilt motor with rebuilt weber passed the high speed sniffer test, but failed the low speed. Once i put a cat on it, it passed both with flying colors.



#7 naru

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Posted 14 October 2014 - 03:51 PM

I really appreciate the tips on what I needed and where to find them.  Rock Auto was a great find.  Thanks Naru.  So my pink Brat is running!  Unfortunately not very well.  The compression is good and everything checks out.  It idles well and runs fairly well at full throttle, but stumbles, hesitates and is very jerky at mid throttle and and when taking off in first gear and right after shifting.  I've been reading about the problems with the carbs and even though I had it rebuilt, it is tough to drive and is going to be very difficult for my daughter to drive.  It did pass smog so that's a good thing.  If I switch out the carb for a Weber it probably won't pass smog.  So other than selling it to someone in another state, does anybody have any suggestions of things I might try?  I'd be much obliged.  I would love to get this running well for my daughter since it was gifted to her by her grandfather and it is in amazingly good physical condition.  No rust or dents. Even the AM radio still works!  Any thoughts from the brain trust?

 

Since you have good compression and a smooth idle(no vacuum leaks),this should not be too difficult.

 

It sounds like an ignition problem to me.

Examine spark plugs,rotor and cap.

Measure plug and coil wire resistance.Examine the wires carefully for signs of arcing thru the insulation.

Last one I had w/similarly poor low speed performance,but,good idle and top end had 2 plug wires that would arc thru the insulation.

 

Doubt it is the carb,but,possible.

Will it run smooth in the mid-range while stationary?

Check the fuel level in the carb sight glass.

Make sure the accelerator pump squirts.

 

Good luck.



#8 Kenichi

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 12:36 PM

Thanks to Spicy Peanut and Naru once again…I am going to pass along this information to the guy helping me.  Regarding the Weber, which one would be the right choice for this '78 Brat?  And any help with timing and jetting would also be appreciated.  

Thanks again!



#9 spicypeanut

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 01:07 PM

Before I had the Cat installed, we dialed the timing back. The motor is supposed to run at 8 degrees before TDC. I believe we dialed it back to about 5, if not 4. It still ran okay, but didn't have quite the torque. When the time comes, have it dialed back a little, the exhuast hot, and dont let the smog test guy let the carb load up. Rev it a few times to get it cleared out, and then start the test. If it fails then add a cat. I would call up Redline, they make the weber carb and can show you exactly which one you need. Or check this link.

 

http://www.redlinewe...ts/auto/subaru/

 


 






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