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EJ Swap Wiring Questions


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61 replies to this topic

#51 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 07:57 PM

It's ALIVE!!!!!! Thanks much to Subruise on prwa101s thread. I grounded the fuel pump at the body, but it wasn't a good enough ground. Put it on a better one and she fires right up!!! Thanks for all the assistance dudes! It was good and worth my time to check all those other things anyway.

Now we just hope nothing else comes up.

#52 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 09:01 PM

One more question. (of course) I've got some fuel leaking out of my return line. Either it wasn't tight enough, or I hooked it up to the wrong hardline.

 

Here's how I had it set up:

 

 

Inside, Fatter hardline, hooked up to this on the intake:

 

 

 

And this line on the intake:

 

 

Hooked up to the outside, skinnier hardline:

 



#53 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 09:47 PM

I think they were reversed, switched them, and no leaks, will need to get an adapter to step the line down in size on the return line though.



#54 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 10:04 PM

Looks like I've got some codes..

 

My ecu blinks at startup

 

Two long and two short

 

And

 

Two long and four short

 

Would this be 22 and 24?

 

Code 22 - Knock sensor - Abnormal Voltage from Knock sensor - Fail safe
defaults to preset fuel map and retard the ignition timing to prevent
preignition.

 

Code 24 - Idle Control Senenoid - Air control Valve inoperative
(feedback circuit detects fault) - Fail safe is to prevent over-rev by
using engine speed and throttle position to cut the fuel deivery - might
run rough.



#55 Gloyale

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 11:27 AM

07021401_zps899b187e.jpg

07021403_zps652e57b3.jpg

07021404_zps4f477984.jpg

07021402_zps49f37a00.jpg

 

 

Idle control solenoid make sure the Yellow/red wire at the center pin of IAC has 12v from Ignition relay

 

Knock sensor probably just a bad Knock sensor if the wire is intact end to end.


Edited by Gloyale, 02 July 2014 - 11:30 AM.


#56 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 01:22 PM

Thanks for the scans Gloyale!

 

I'll go test that wire now.

 

And I've got a knock sensor on the way thanks to AdventureSubaru. I read that some people remove their sensors, and clean/sand down the mating surface, and it fixes the issue, so I'll try that first.



#57 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 01:34 PM

I'm getting 12V at the yellow/red wire. hmm..



#58 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 01:53 PM

So I'm looking at wiring in the ALT today, I've got two fat white wires, do these tie in together and connect to the EA fat white?

 

Also, I noticed that on the prints, the ignition diode connects to the alt wiring, currently my diode has three wires coming out of it, two light green off the same pin, one running to the ECU, and the other(yellow) going to 12V constant.(wrong? Should it be switched)

 

But I guess the question is, does this yellow need to tie into the ALT wiring or no?



#59 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 11:03 PM

Well, I just put it all together according to Gloyale's list on the prev page. Works just fine. Thanks man!

 

Code 24 went away, maybe the connector wasn't plugged in enough.

 

Code 22 remains, but the knock sensor is majorly cracked, so hopefully it's just an R &R



#60 Scooner

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 11:36 PM

I had a badly cracked knock sensor on my engine as well and replaced it with a new one, you have to be careful when you reinstall the new one so the connector kind of points a certain way, if you dont you can break the new sensor and it won't seat well. Definitely look it up on here for some images.

#61 Gloyale

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 09:55 AM

But I guess the question is, does this yellow need to tie into the ALT wiring or no?

 

It doesn't HAVE to be hooked up that way.....just the yellow wire at the alt needs to see Switched voltage as a "signal" reference for the regulator to monitor voltage.  Attaching that to the Ig. relay circuit ensures that the alt keeps the ECU voltage steady.......

 

But later models don't have this connection.......and in fact I've seen poorly remaned alts cause havoc to the ECU because of this connection..

 

You could simply give that yellow wire at the Alt switched voltage from anywhere and it should be fine.  And the Yellow wire at the diode that supplies the Ig. relay and ECU, it should be switched or your ECU and Ig relay are always on.

 

Fat white wires can be tied to the EA charge wire (fat white)  but it's better actually to run them all the way back to just before the fusible link box before splice...................or even better still all the way to the battery through a 3 inch long section of 12 gauge fusible link wire.   The original EA wire is old, and was made to take 55 amps.....not the 70+ the EJ alt can produce.



#62 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 04 July 2014 - 12:32 AM

Thanks Scooner, will do.

 

Yeah I've got that yellow wire hooked to switched power, along with the relays. Seems to be charging just fine.

 

Good point on the old EA wire though. I'll look into replacing that sometime, kinda just wanna be done with the whole thing for the time being.






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