Oil pan gasket - tips? (2.2)

[hklaine]

So I changed just about all the leaking gaskets/seals (and some that weren't leaking) in my Legacy. The only one that still needs to be done is the oil pan gasket. The Chilton's manual suggests taking the exhaust off the manifold and loosening the engine mounts slightly before lifting the engine. Where should I lift the engine from? Easy job?

 

Also, it seems that there is some oil on the tops of the heads in the area of the intake manifold. Is this residual leakage from the valve cover gaskets or would/could oil be leaking from the intake manifold where it mounts to the head?

 

Thanks.

 

-Heikki

[ShawnW]

Theres really no need to unbolt the exhaust but the motor mount nuts should be removed and then use a hoist to lift the engine until the top of the y-pipe hits the crossmember.

 

1/4" wobble with extensions and a #3 philips screwdriver helps makes this job easier. DO NOT OVERTORQUE and get the surface REALLY clean to insure the torque is right. No RTV just cork gasket.

[hklaine]

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll add this to the agenda for my next oil change.

 

-Heikki

[ccrinc]

There is no actual "gasket" on any engine after the EA82 models.

All oil pans are sealed to the block with RTV sealant. Subaru uses black Tribond: we much prefer Permatex Ultra Grey 599. Easier to use, cheaper, and doesn't leak at all. Also lasts as long as the engine will.

 

Clean the pan surface off VERY well, then apply a generous amount all around (about 1/16th inch thick). Get the pan bolts in quickly: this stuff starts to set up fast!

 

Emily

http://www.ccrengines.com