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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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1980 DL 4wd


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48 replies to this topic

#1 tscinmd

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Posted 30 January 2005 - 04:57 PM

Hello all .. new to the list.


My neighbor is selling a 1980 DL 4wd. This car is in great shape body wise. The only issue is with the motor - motor is clean , car only has 52k original miles, but it is getting some blowby. If I buy the car, I'll only have 250.00 into it . Are the motors hard to rering or rebuild if it is needed. As far as I know it sat in a garage for a long time. The guy who is selling it bought it to commute with but doesn't have time to spend on a new project. Everthing on the car is original except the new paint and the stereo consol. 4wd works great ... no rust anywhere on the car. Sound like a good deal even with the motor issues?

#2 85Sub4WD

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Posted 30 January 2005 - 05:05 PM

EXCELLENT deal. I know the EA71 and EA81 (you have one of the two) have relatively easy motors to rebuild, that said you can easily find a good one to drop in it too. Get it, I bet the "blowby" is really just a bad PCV valve - a $5 item. Soobs will shoot oil everywhere if the PCV valve is clogged. GREAT 4WD in all Soobs, so if you are worried about inclimate weather, it can easily be your 4WD solution. Too bad it doesn't have the "center eye" (only offered on 1980 GL 4WD Soobs)

#3 the sucker king

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Posted 30 January 2005 - 05:14 PM

rust free, and 52k? buy it buy it buy it!

what body style is it?

#4 MilesFox

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Posted 30 January 2005 - 05:23 PM

the blowby may very well be from the pcv. before you consider a rebuild you may want to soalk the cylinders in a solvent to see if it will free up any sticky rings

somewhere on the board there is a tread about soaking the rings.....

#5 85Sub4WD

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Posted 30 January 2005 - 05:43 PM

Honestly, if I didn't already have a Soob, I would pick it up in a snap. The 1980 cars are cool, and this one is in GREAT shape.
If it is not the PCV valve, a sticky ring is a strong possibility, and soaking it with solvent should solve the problem.

#6 the sucker king

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Posted 30 January 2005 - 11:37 PM

.........................

#7 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 09:37 AM

The car is a hatchback. I'm going to work the deal out today. That would be awesome if it is only a pcv.

#8 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 11:35 AM

In order to clean up sticky rings, do you just pour the solovent down into the engine and let it sit overnight or how would you guys recommend going about that?

#9 85Sub4WD

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 11:49 AM

I can't recall off the top of my head, but it was recently posted/replied to in another thread.

#10 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 11:58 AM

Its a DL 1600 , has the EA71

#11 MilesFox

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 12:14 PM

yake the plugs out and dump it in the cylinders. let sit and occasionally turn the motor over by hand to work it in. pb blaster is a good lube, i have used it to free a seized block due to sittong for a while. it will halp take dawn any rust.

as far as sludge or carbon try kerosene or oven cleaner.

these things i would use having them laying around, but you may want more opinion on what solvents to use

#12 85Sub4WD

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 12:36 PM

I forgot about kerosene, I used it to clean the valve assembly on a Chevy v-8 once, works great for oil gelling deposits (and its cheap).

#13 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 01:30 PM

Could I do this with the engine still mounted in the car? I do have access to a garage, but timing is and issue right now due to the cold weather.

#14 85Sub4WD

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 03:29 PM

Shure, just pull the spark plugs and disconnect the coil.
Have you already replaced the PCV valve?
If you haven't then we are all getting way ahead of ourselves because that solves the problem 99% of the time, especially consitering the mileage on the engine. Just be sure to use an OEM valve.

#15 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 03:54 PM

Not yet. I'll probably pick the car up tonight or tomorrow evening.

#16 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 06:16 PM

Forgot to ask. How hard is the pcv valve to replace? I've done them on newer Fords, but nothing this old before.

#17 Roobaflu

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 07:00 PM

dont forget the marvel mystery oil
(fell in love with that stuff back in the rotary days)
cleans, lubricates, you can add it to your crank case, you can put some in your fuel, great stuff

#18 85Sub4WD

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 07:32 PM

They are very easy, on EA82's they screw in behind the carbureator into the intake manifold, don't know on an EA81, just look for something that goes into the intake manifold from the valve covers.

#19 chef_tim

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 07:37 PM

dont forget the marvel mystery oil
(fell in love with that stuff back in the rotary days)
cleans, lubricates, you can add it to your crank case, you can put some in your fuel, great stuff


MMO is the greatest, try it first before you go dumping or digging!!!!

#20 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 10:16 PM

I love MMO ... stuff smells good ... like pepto for your motor. We have always mixed a tiny bit of it in with our two stroke stuff to keep it all good and lubed in the winter while sitting.

#21 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 10:18 PM

BTW, did pick the car up . I'll post pics when I get a chance to upload them. Its in great shape body wise. Might have a small vacuum leak . Gonna check all that stuff out maybe tomorrow.

#22 85Sub4WD

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 11:07 PM

Congrads,
You will want to get the FSM or the Haynes manual for Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980-1989. The later edition of the book does not cover your car as well, and you will have to pick it up used, but it is fairly detailed.

#23 tscinmd

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 11:25 PM

Congrads,
You will want to get the FSM or the Haynes manual for Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980-1989. The later edition of the book does not cover your car as well, and you will have to pick it up used, but it is fairly detailed.




Picked up a Chiltons for 4.00 brand new at the local ollies ... its not too bad. I do like Haynes better -- so I'll be on the lookout.

#24 85Sub4WD

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Posted 31 January 2005 - 11:30 PM

The reason I said that particular Haynes manual is they basically Xeroxed the FSM's wiring diagrams for your car and put them in the manual. Whether or not you have any electrical faults now, a good wiring diagram is worth its weight in gold if you develop any or wish to add accessories.

#25 tscinmd

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 09:48 AM

Well, looked at the car a little late last night - looks like the little part the pcv valve goes in is broken - has a cracked tube. It may have a vacuum leak or two as well. I have a guy helping me out with it since he is an expert on low tech motors. I'll keep posting details.




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