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Ignition Pulse System malfunction


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3 replies to this topic

#1 yuba49r

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 11:55 AM

Ignition Pulse System code, what does this mean? I got out the code, now what do I do with it, since the Haynes book I bought is crap. I have a 86 GL Wagon, Mfg. date 06/86. VIN # JF2AN53B9Ge471708. I can't seem to find any wiring diagram to match the one I have, or vacuum either, I am really frustrated with this thing, regret buying it. I can't figure out whether the rear wheel bearings are a one piece system or two, the books aren't helping. I think I have cruise control, but I can't seem to make it work, the AC doesn't want to work either. Are there any books worth the paper they are printed on? For all I know I have the wrong code, and I can't find the memory connector, supposed to be black?

#2 Ross

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 05:45 PM

Ingintion pulse code means the computer isn't getting a reference pulse frrom your ignition module, inside the distributor (like points in older cars). This means that either your engine was off when you took the code, or there is a fault in the module or its circuit.

Rear wheel bearings consist of two tapered roller bearings and a spacer.

#3 yuba49r

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 11:06 PM

Ok, update needed...I've done plenty of work to the Wagon recently and am still in the process. I replaced both CV axles, front wheel bearings. Then, it wouldn't pass smog? Later the same day, the timing belt almost kept me from home. I took it apart when I got home to find a couple teeth had come off. So, I ordered the Ebay Timing belt kit with the gasket set too. Got a new water pump, resealed the oil pump, replaced the cam tower seals, crank seal. Replaced the roller, belt tensioners, and both belts, even though the drivers' side was the broken one, I like to get ahead of potential headaches, so, basically I replaced everything I could in front of the engine. In the process of re-tightening the tensioners, the threads stripped, so I got a heli-coil kit and went from there. The job went fine, I thought, but the tensioners kept coming loose, until I really tightened them hard without the torq wrench, lol. I also broke off the bolt on the high pressure side of the oil pump in the block, got a extractor and it came out, shew!, went to the junk yard got a new timing belt cover set, and the oil pump bolts. Fixed! But, eventually I left the covers off, until I get it all the way fixed. I didn't think I had the patience to remove the valve covers and replace those seals, so I left them be. I also replaced the exhaust gaskets and the donut gasket from the exhaust coupling behind the Cat. and replaced the Oxy Sensor after re-tapping the threads, someone had put JB weld in it, that's how bad it was! I finally I got it to run, then the thing started to have new symptoms, lol. I applied for assistance through the CAP program here in California, which you'll see was a mistake I'm paying for now. They pay for $500 of the smog related repairs. I took it to a place that sounded like they did Japanese Auto Repair, I had to pick from their smog or CAP approved repair facilities. Well, they said it first needed a new carburetor, so I got a reman one for a little over $200. They made me pay extra to install it, they also said the PCV valve was bad, and a hose. I get the car back with the newly issued smog certificate, and it won't accelerate over 3100 RPM!!! Then, the choke circuit seems to be malfunctioning, and it developed a lifter tick, which never happened before. WTF??? They charged the State of California like $490 for this little bit of work, they called most of the time involved; diagnosing the problem...Well, I didn't really know who to call to complain or make them fix the problem. Anyway, I've since taken the distributor apart, lubricated the little weights, tested the vacuum advance units, I have a Hitachi Carb with the Nippondenso Disty. All seemed fine, checked the barrels in the carb primary & secondary seemed to be squirting fuel, so what gives? When the lifter tick, or whatever it was started I parked it. Now, I've taken it to Steve Barsotti in Newcastle, all he does EVER are Subaru's, day in, day out. So, far today he said, he has found there PCV job was totally connected wrong, also was totally missing a certain hose needed. Also, there is a code 52? He said he would figure it out, also he wanted to replace the Oxygen Sensor I put in, either I damaged it, got thread crap on it or it's a cheap piece of junk, you pick, lol. He said he thinks it needs a fuel filter, so in a few days I should know, he aid the lifter thing happens when an older Subby has been sitting a while. So, driving it, and some high test, plus Sea Foam wouldn't hurt things. I did notice when I had to drive it down there, approx 40 miles drive, the noise wasn't noticeable like before, it still had the acceleration issues, but no ticking. So, hopefully they won't have to get into the engine, and cost me an arm and a leg for my old trusty! I have brand new tires and brakes too, I do need to rebuild/replace the front caliper piston seals. The passenger one is sticking at times, it's not the Ebrake or the hill holder they are functioning fine. Well, This pretty much updates things. Peace, for now

#4 Cougar

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 11:04 AM

The best service manuals are the factory manuals. You can usually find the set of four books on Ebay. They are a real help to have on hand.




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