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Cougar

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Cougar last won the day on June 20 2016

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    Telecom Tech
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    Cougar4
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    Like to keep up with car technology and tinker with electronics.
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    '01 LL Bean Outback

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  1. When you checked the fuses in the dash panel, did you check to see if power was getting to them? I assume it is the Warning lights you are referring to that are not working, correct? Fuse 5 in the Main panel supplies power to the Ignition relay. Check for power on the fuse and at the relay. Make sure the relay is working properly.
  2. I think the power to the injectors is provided through the Main Relay, along with other engine circuits. They are all tied to a supply line from the relay. I suggest you look for a bad splice connection, possibly in the harness, for the two injectors having trouble. Also, you are correct in thinking the ECU turning on the injectors by completing the ground connection to them and power is supplied to them whenever the Main Relay is ON.
  3. You're welcome for the help. Let us know what you find out with the test.
  4. Your understanding of the battery indicator light is correct. Current has to pass through it to provide power to the exciter inside the alternator. The battery light should turn ON when the ignition is turned to ON, like the rest of the warning lights do. If that doesn't happen then follow the good advice given by FerGloyale by grounding the B/W wire going to the alternator. If the light still doesn't work then either the light is bad, power from the ignition isn't getting to the light, a blocking diode inside the cluster is bad, or there is a wiring problem on that circuit. The alternator provides a path to ground normally until it generates the field. Then there is a charge on the windings and the current stops flowing to ground and the light goes out, unless there is a problem with the alternator.
  5. The ignition relay ties to connector B93, which is shown in the drawing of the bulkhead wire harness on page 119 (page 1310 of the PDF), in the wiring section of the physical manual. You can find information about the power to the ECU (depending on which model you have, MPFI or SPFI) on pages 22 and 30. Along with the power to the ECU, make sure that the grounds to the ECU are good and making connection to the body and engine. The details for the power supply routing starts on page 14 (Part 5) of the wiring section.
  6. The trouble may be within the alternator. To see if this is the case disable the alternator by removing the small wire connector going to the alternator. Start the engine and see if the trouble has cleared. It id does then the alternator may have some bad diodes inside it and too much ripple voltage is occurring.
  7. I suspect that the problem may be with the ACC contact position of the ignition switch. See if the rear wiper doesn't work while the problem is occurring. If that is bad also check the switch contacts. You may need to replace the switch.
  8. This could be a warning that the battery is failing. I suggest you have it checked and it would also be a good idea to clean the battery connections using the proper cleaning brush. What matters is the battery post contact surfaces, not the outside clamp surfaces. They may not be an issue but by doing that you will know for sure that they are making good connection.
  9. Cougar

    Alternator not charging

    Check for a loose fusible link connection, it is a fairly common issue. They are located in a small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir.
  10. Cougar

    No power to ignition

    If jumping power to the black ignition switch wire doesn't help solve the issue then the next check I would say is the Ignition Relay. It should be located under the dash, upper left side. Try tapping on it with a screw driver handle to see if that will help make contact. If that works, replace the relay. The trouble you described makes it seem like a relay issue. I don't know how you got near a twenty volt reading. If that is really true then you need to replace the alternator immediately.
  11. Thanks for the heads-up on the controller Naru, the turbo model engine does have one. From the details given by the OP it seems there is a bad wire connection somewhere in the power circuit for the pump.
  12. I agree with the previous poster. Make sure power is getting to the ignition while the problem is occurring. If power is okay then I would suspect the igniter.
  13. If you are getting injector codes then a lack of fuel seems pretty logical. You should also check the compression.
  14. There should be 12 volts getting to the pump when the key is first turned on but it only lasts a couple of seconds if the engine isn't running. The relay is the next thing to verify after the fuse. Then the power wire to the pump. The black/yel wire from the relay (after the relay contacts) turns to blk/red on the pump side so the connection may be between between the those two points if the relay is okay.
  15. Whenever you supply power to an open circuit (due to a bad ground or open lamp) you will see full voltage at any point on that circuit if no current is flowing. It is best to test for power with the circuit connected up normally. Otherwise you may get confused about the real problem. From you stated about the problem I have to think the light switch is wired backwards somehow.
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