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Cougar

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Cougar last won the day on June 20 2016

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About Cougar

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    Anchorage
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    Electronics, woodworking,music,flying
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    Telecom Tech
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    Cougar4
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    Like to keep up with car technology and tinker with electronics.
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    '01 LL Bean Outback
  1. I suspect that the problem may be with the ACC contact position of the ignition switch. See if the rear wiper doesn't work while the problem is occurring. If that is bad also check the switch contacts. You may need to replace the switch.
  2. This could be a warning that the battery is failing. I suggest you have it checked and it would also be a good idea to clean the battery connections using the proper cleaning brush. What matters is the battery post contact surfaces, not the outside clamp surfaces. They may not be an issue but by doing that you will know for sure that they are making good connection.
  3. Cougar

    Alternator not charging

    Check for a loose fusible link connection, it is a fairly common issue. They are located in a small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir.
  4. Cougar

    No power to ignition

    If jumping power to the black ignition switch wire doesn't help solve the issue then the next check I would say is the Ignition Relay. It should be located under the dash, upper left side. Try tapping on it with a screw driver handle to see if that will help make contact. If that works, replace the relay. The trouble you described makes it seem like a relay issue. I don't know how you got near a twenty volt reading. If that is really true then you need to replace the alternator immediately.
  5. Thanks for the heads-up on the controller Naru, the turbo model engine does have one. From the details given by the OP it seems there is a bad wire connection somewhere in the power circuit for the pump.
  6. I agree with the previous poster. Make sure power is getting to the ignition while the problem is occurring. If power is okay then I would suspect the igniter.
  7. If you are getting injector codes then a lack of fuel seems pretty logical. You should also check the compression.
  8. There should be 12 volts getting to the pump when the key is first turned on but it only lasts a couple of seconds if the engine isn't running. The relay is the next thing to verify after the fuse. Then the power wire to the pump. The black/yel wire from the relay (after the relay contacts) turns to blk/red on the pump side so the connection may be between between the those two points if the relay is okay.
  9. Whenever you supply power to an open circuit (due to a bad ground or open lamp) you will see full voltage at any point on that circuit if no current is flowing. It is best to test for power with the circuit connected up normally. Otherwise you may get confused about the real problem. From you stated about the problem I have to think the light switch is wired backwards somehow.
  10. The trouble you are having is most likely located in the power distribution/fuse panel under the hood. I think fuse SBF-4 is the fuse that ties power to the ignition switch. Make sure all the fuses in the panel are getting power to them and no fuses are blown. Also make sure the nuts for the main fuse are snug tight.
  11. The lamp is turned on by the ABS circuit making a ground connection to the lamp. See if the light goes out when you disconnect the ABS control module. If it doesn't check the 'CHECK CONNECTOR' for a grounding problem. If the lamp does go out then reconnect the module and disconnect the hydraulic unit and see if that makes go out. Check for voltage on pin 17 (grn/wht wire) going to the ABS control module. If voltage is real low on that lead then isolate that wire from the module and see if the module pin still has low voltage on it. If it does then the module is activating the light somehow. It may, or may not, necessarily mean the module is bad.
  12. Thanks for the feedback. Glad you pinned down the trouble and you're welcome for the help. Rather than just following the wire, you might be able to find the trouble faster after seeing which light doesn't work after you get the good lights connected again. When you pin down the bad light disconnect the light socket and see if the trouble goes away doing that. If it doesn't then check the wiring near that area for a problem.
  13. Ebay is a very good place to find the factory manuals and CD ROM data. Hopefully you haven't damaged the wiring by adding larger fuses. One trick you can use safely to help find the bad spot is to solder the connections of a spare taillight across the connections of a blown fuse and place it in the circuit having the problem. The resistance of the lamp will limit the amount of current available to the short to a safe level while you hunt for the problem. Some of the lights on the circuit may even light up slightly. The leg with the short on it will not be able to light up due to the short circuit. Once the connection to the short is removed the light in fuse panel will dim down and the other remaining lights in the circuit will glow slightly brighter. The light in the fuse panel is in series with the other lights.
  14. Make sure the fuses under the hood and in the dash fuse panels are okay. The main relay and fuel pump relay are under the passenger side kick panel.
  15. You may have an intermittent power connection. I suggest you check the power to the ignition system while the trouble is occurring.
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