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What is happening to my Subaru Forester???


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It all started on Saturday.. I went to the car to start it and it took me 5 Seconds with the key turned to the Start Pos. and the car turned over on it's own... I thought maybe the spark plugs needed to be changed. After all they were 10K overdue. Anyway my mom heard it for herself... So I got new wires and Spark plugs and I changed that... The car started Normal under 1 Sec when cold.. but when I went to my cousins to drop his tools back off and went to leave it took 3 Seconds for the car to start again and now this time the car was in the normal range on the temp.

 

Im clueless on whats going on here... What's going on? I have no Check engine lights or anything.. The engine Idles around 650 or so. it's just some thing is not right when you start it.. I changed the fuel filter and it's not that because I let the car run for about 5 Min with the new filter..

 

 

One person thought it was the fuel pump but if it was that the car would run rough.. It's not that And it can't be the coil pack could it?

 

 

Please someone.. this is the only Awd car I have for the winter... my other Subaru is Fwd.

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It's not the battery... I know what a dieing battery sounds like..

 

Here is some more stuff I went to try tonight.

 

 

I went out to the car again.. I waited for it to warm up.. and the car idled around 650 or so Rpms.. So I lighty tap the gas and the car starts to act like it wants to stall but it never does.. But the Rpms were going up and down.. and the car ran rough but if you let off the gas it ran again at 600 or so rpms.. But when you put the car in gear the car ran at 500 Rpms.. The first line on the Tach.. That can't be right... it was not doing this crazy stuff before.

 

It can't be the IAC can it?? The car has 72,306 miles on it

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This is about whats going on..

 

http://www.trinbagoauto.com/mark_hard.asp

 

If it is a "warm restart extended cranking", almost always it is low fuel pressure caused by a plugged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump.

 

 

Car Starts Fine when it's cold.. But let the car idle to it's normal temp. And then shut the car off for like 30 Seconds then restart It takes like 3 Seconds for the engine just to start. And yes my battery is fine it's brand new.

 

Brand new Spark plugs and a brand new Wire set to go along with it.

 

When an engine cranks for a long time before it starts, either spark or fuel is missing or weak and each has its own reasons. Most of the time, the air / fuel mixture has been disturbed and there is too much air or not enough fuel. Any sensor that reports to the computer who then takes that input and controls fuel or air delivery is suspect when diagnosing long cranking times. A bad coolant sensor, a bad throttle position sensor (TPS), a bad fuel pump or a plugged fuel filter can all cause a lean condition causing long cranking times. Sometimes the spark is delivered late, weak or not at all. A weak coil or bad coil wire, a bad pick up coil or crank sensor or a bad rotor can all cause a change in the spark.

 

My Coil Pack should be Fine.. But what about the Cam Sensor & IAC & TPS Wont those all throw a CEL?

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Not all fault codes show up as CEL. Only those which are deemed critical and need immediate service.

 

Faulty IAC would tend to create erratic idling - and starting - but but rarely just low idle speed.

 

Warm starting problems could indicate not enough air coming in. Check the entire intake system for blockage...and replace the air filter.

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My friend sent me this..

 

so i got a reply from my e-mail, pretty much what we've already talked about. Since its only when its hot- could be a crank or cam sensor supposedly they will start sometimes with a bad one. youve replaced plugs and fuel filter so thats NOT it. And i was reminded of the older 3800s and chevu 3.4s where after the engine got hot the coil would break down and not work until it cooled off. Also fuel, a leaky injector could be leaking fuel into teh engine, (releiving all the pressure and puddling fuel) this could cause it to be flooded at first and not start right away, or it could be running too lean on startup for the same reason, a clogged or leaky injector.

 

pretty much go through and make sure all sensors are plugged in securely and all hoses and vacume lines are plugged in. if this doesnt solve anything take it to a dealer and have them look it over.

 

 

At this point it can be anyone of those because last light I Ever So lighty and I do mean LIGHTY tapped the gas petal and when I did the car got rough and the rpms were going up and down quick Bewteen 700 and 500 Rpms I swear I thought the car was going to stall.. Now what causes that?

 

I posted a 3 Subaru places I never got anyone to respond at the other one (It's not a Wrx thats why) I want a car that works not a car thats always in the shop.

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Originally posted by Setright

Not all fault codes show up as CEL. Only those which are deemed critical and need immediate service.

 

Faulty IAC would tend to create erratic idling - and starting - but but rarely just low idle speed.

 

Warm starting problems could indicate not enough air coming in. Check the entire intake system for blockage...and replace the air filter.

 

Air filter is new...

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Dollars to donuts your Forester has the same problem we had. Exact same symptoms, and no CEL. The oxy sensor failed on lots of Foresters. Dealer replaced ours once and solved the problem. (free) I've seen other posts where board members say it took a couple new O2 sensors before they got one that worked.

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I don't know but I took it to my meachnic and I did the throttle like I did before and the car was surging.. He said he saw the EGR vavle opening up when it was doing that. The EGR should not open up until around 3,000 Rpms... I had no CEL until later that day.. I don't know If it's due to him pulling the Vac. Hose on the EGR or something else tripped the CEL.

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