SubaruImpreza_Power

I don't know but I took it to my meachnic and I did the throttle like I did before and the car was surging.. He said he saw the EGR vavle opening up when it was doing that. The EGR should not open up until around 3,000 Rpms... I had no CEL until later that day.. I don't know If it's due to him pulling the Vac. Hose on the EGR or something else tripped the CEL.

Air filter is new...

My friend sent me this.. so i got a reply from my e-mail, pretty much what we've already talked about. Since its only when its hot- could be a crank or cam sensor supposedly they will start sometimes with a bad one. youve replaced plugs and fuel filter so thats NOT it. And i was reminded of the older 3800s and chevu 3.4s where after the engine got hot the coil would break down and not work until it cooled off. Also fuel, a leaky injector could be leaking fuel into teh engine, (releiving all the pressure and puddling fuel) this could cause it to be flooded at first and not start right away, or it could be running too lean on startup for the same reason, a clogged or leaky injector. pretty much go through and make sure all sensors are plugged in securely and all hoses and vacume lines are plugged in. if this doesnt solve anything take it to a dealer and have them look it over. At this point it can be anyone of those because last light I Ever So lighty and I do mean LIGHTY tapped the gas petal and when I did the car got rough and the rpms were going up and down quick Bewteen 700 and 500 Rpms I swear I thought the car was going to stall.. Now what causes that? I posted a 3 Subaru places I never got anyone to respond at the other one (It's not a Wrx thats why) I want a car that works not a car thats always in the shop.

This is about whats going on.. http://www.trinbagoauto.com/mark_hard.asp If it is a "warm restart extended cranking", almost always it is low fuel pressure caused by a plugged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump. Car Starts Fine when it's cold.. But let the car idle to it's normal temp. And then shut the car off for like 30 Seconds then restart It takes like 3 Seconds for the engine just to start. And yes my battery is fine it's brand new. Brand new Spark plugs and a brand new Wire set to go along with it. When an engine cranks for a long time before it starts, either spark or fuel is missing or weak and each has its own reasons. Most of the time, the air / fuel mixture has been disturbed and there is too much air or not enough fuel. Any sensor that reports to the computer who then takes that input and controls fuel or air delivery is suspect when diagnosing long cranking times. A bad coolant sensor, a bad throttle position sensor (TPS), a bad fuel pump or a plugged fuel filter can all cause a lean condition causing long cranking times. Sometimes the spark is delivered late, weak or not at all. A weak coil or bad coil wire, a bad pick up coil or crank sensor or a bad rotor can all cause a change in the spark. My Coil Pack should be Fine.. But what about the Cam Sensor & IAC & TPS Wont those all throw a CEL?

It's not the battery... I know what a dieing battery sounds like.. Here is some more stuff I went to try tonight. I went out to the car again.. I waited for it to warm up.. and the car idled around 650 or so Rpms.. So I lighty tap the gas and the car starts to act like it wants to stall but it never does.. But the Rpms were going up and down.. and the car ran rough but if you let off the gas it ran again at 600 or so rpms.. But when you put the car in gear the car ran at 500 Rpms.. The first line on the Tach.. That can't be right... it was not doing this crazy stuff before. It can't be the IAC can it?? The car has 72,306 miles on it

yes they should of recalled the 98 2.5 DOHC cars because it was a "problem on all engines"

It all started on Saturday.. I went to the car to start it and it took me 5 Seconds with the key turned to the Start Pos. and the car turned over on it's own... I thought maybe the spark plugs needed to be changed. After all they were 10K overdue. Anyway my mom heard it for herself... So I got new wires and Spark plugs and I changed that... The car started Normal under 1 Sec when cold.. but when I went to my cousins to drop his tools back off and went to leave it took 3 Seconds for the car to start again and now this time the car was in the normal range on the temp. Im clueless on whats going on here... What's going on? I have no Check engine lights or anything.. The engine Idles around 650 or so. it's just some thing is not right when you start it.. I changed the fuel filter and it's not that because I let the car run for about 5 Min with the new filter.. One person thought it was the fuel pump but if it was that the car would run rough.. It's not that And it can't be the coil pack could it? Please someone.. this is the only Awd car I have for the winter... my other Subaru is Fwd.

Counting from 1,000 down to 0 their are 2 lines I don't think you count 0 as a line.

ok the first line is 0 Rpms so whats the line after that? and the last line before 1,000 rpms?

So why are the head gaskets blowing??

I would take a Subaru ANYDAY over a Kia (Killed in Action) OMG thats like a No brainer..:brolleye:

From a 98 Forester? it can't stay in the house forever...

man the Dohc is a pain in the neck.. I tell you what I did.. I used a 6" extenstion on the drivers side and a 3" on the passenger side with a Flex hard rachet. I bet I could of used the 3" ext. on the drivers side too but I was not sure.. But I tried the 6" Ext. on the passenger side and it was a no go with the airbox in the way.. getting some tools for myself this weekend.

the question is will it fit and turn? http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=ALT&MfrPartNumber=010326&CategoryCode=3411S

Well I found out what the problem was... "SPARK PLUGS" I and knew it was time.. my mom is lucky she has a son that loves Subaru's but the 98 Forester L has a DOHC.. and the Spark plug wires were a Major pain in the rump roast... No Joke.. I tired almost everything.. I don't know if these wires were the ones that came with the car.. They are Red and the boot part that you pull on to take it off the spark plug well thats stupid to make it rubber because each time I pulled it would slip from my fingers. But yes I replaced and put Bosh Plats in the car.. I took out the old plugs and checked the gap.. It was at 0.047 in the maunal it says 0.039 to 0.043 man that thing going crazy trying to keep a spark... I think it's normal for Subarus but seems the car is running on the rich side.

Battery is fine car runs fine after long start up

Send me a Im on dslfastback to hear the sound clip.. Please someone help...

Anyone?? so I need 1 8" Extension 1 5/8 Spark Plug Socket and some Spark plug boot grease Will a 15" Breaker bar fit? I would hate to buy another socket wrench..

Before it used to start right away.. But every since yesterday I had to start the car for at least 3 seconds then it starts.. I think the spark plugs are pass due? Im the 2nd owner of the car. I got it at 62K miles. It now has 72K on it now, I don't know if the plugs have been changed or not.. What do you guys thing? If need be I can provide a short sound sample.. It happens just about every start-up But not right after you cut the car off. But if you wait like 30 Sec then it will do it again.

or this http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=CCT&MfrPartNumber=7330&PartType=945&PTSet=C

*Sigh..* I don't know what for.. I guess anyway was thinking about getting this drive shaft.. http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=607007&PartType=945&PTSet=C

I have a stupid question... Im looking on the net and their are core charges for the drive shafts... Buying the product instore wont have a core charge will it? I know you get the money back for that but it does add on to the price...

is Ed still around? So it's remove the wheels.. then remove the nut off the wheel hub (Can be hard?) after thats done Pull the wheel hub away?? After that the axle the outer one is free from the hub? Then you Tap a Pin on the Inner part of the axle and thats free then you remove it from the car. Correct?

Said By Ed... If this isn't in the archives, it should be: Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag. Thanks to Andy and Skip, the trick of removing the swaybar clamp is definitely less work than loosening the strut tower nuts and certainly is easier to remove the DOJ from the stub axle this way. Hey Ed, Is this the same way for a 95 Impreza L? When you guys say tapping on the Inner axel Where are you tapping at? on the inner axel it's self? Im confused with the steps.. I got the taking off the wheel and all that. But what comes first? And whats this so called nut I have to take off? It seems stright forward Im lucky with the 1.8l engine I have getting to the axel wont be much of a problem.

Said By Ed... If this isn't in the archives, it should be: Remove the cotter pin in the axle nut while the car is still on the ground and "break" the nut loose with the 36mm socket and a long breaker bar. Remove the wheel after jacking the car up (wheel chocks and jackstands are VERY important here). Knock out the pin on the DOJ with a drift-tool from the UNBEVELED hole and remove the pivot bolt from the lower arm. I don't remove the sway bar mount (never had to). Pull the DOJ away from the transmission; it should move freely now but won't quite come off. Tug on the wheel hub and pull on the DOJ and often it will pop off the stub axle. If not, loosen the nuts at the top of the strut tower a bit (don't take them off!) and/or pry the lower pivot arm away from its support with a crowbar or large screwdriver. This should allow you to get the DOJ off the stub axle. Now remove the castle nut, and both washers (tapping the hub smartly with a small hammer will help get the spring washer out). Now the trick is to get the spindle out of the hub. Either get a large gear puller (6 or 7 inch version) or a sledge hammer and a block of wood. You can push the spindle out with the gear puller or smack the spindle with the sledge (MAKE SURE THE BLOCK OF WOOD IS THERE to prevent damaging the threads--hard to get your core charge back if the threads are bunged). You might need to use your drift and a smaller sledge and pound the spindle out the last inch or so via the small hole in the end. Now carefully remove the axle from the car. Installation is the reverse of removal. Feed the spindle into the hub first; once you get the nut started on the spindle you can use two screwdrivers to pry the spindle out of the hub. I have a number of large washers that I use for spacers to help that along. In really difficult cases I remove the four bolts holding the outer portion of the hub and put the hub aside to give me more purchase on the end of the spindle. Once you have the spindle through the hub reinstall the washers and castle nut and tighten (not completely yet). Now re-install the DOJ (line up the splines first and note that the splines only line up one way--one hole has a tooth in the center and the other has a groove in the center). Tugging on the hub you should be able to slide the DOJ back onto the stub axle again. Line up the holes and knock the spring pin back into the BEVELLED hole. Put the pivot bolt back into the lower arm and tighten. Tighten the nuts at the top of the strut, replace the wheel and drop the car back on the ground and tighten the castle nut to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more--more is better and won't hurt anything). Torque the wheel lugs to 75 ft-lbs replace the cotter pin in the castle nut and you're done. Retorque the lugnuts after 300 miles again and check the castle nut for tightness (yes they can loosen up--I'll explain the mystery of that some other time if you ask nicely). Start to finish takes less than 45 minutes unless you run into a snag. Thanks to Andy and Skip, the trick of removing the swaybar clamp is definitely less work than loosening the strut tower nuts and certainly is easier to remove the DOJ from the stub axle this way. Hey Ed, Is this the same way for a 95 Impreza L? When you guys say tapping on the Inner axel Where are you tapping at? on the inner axel it's self? Im confused with the steps.. I got the taking off the wheel and all that. But what comes first? And whats this so called nut I have to take off? It seems stright forward Im lucky with the 1.8l engine I have getting to the axel wont be much of a problem.