Transmission, Axle, and Brakes

Hey, just so you know before you use this manual... All of the above info is from Subaru enthusisasts who are not experts trained by Fuji in the art of how to jimmy-rig your car with new fangled ways to improve it. Many things here in the manual were trial and error attempts by members. Sometimes the bugs are not worked out. We try our best to be honest in telling you *how to*, but that doesn't neccessarily mean we're 100% on the mark. Bad things may just happen if you try one of these experimental *fixes*. The owners and moderators of the Ultimate Subaru Message Board which contains the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual will NOT be held liable for your actions/modifications.…

Spent some time looking at archived posts but did not come up with a satisfactory answer to my question. Is my diff. a limited slip? I read that in a ea82 1988 loyal that the diffs were 3.7 but I also read some info to the contrary. My diff is a 3.9 and the p/n is 622006022. Thanks

A quick how to for your CV axle

Quick and easy how to on replacing your wheel bearing.

Quick video to see if you have a bad bearing or tie rod.

http://www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf

Identifying the fill plug for the 2015 Outback genii TR580 lineartronic cvt(used in all 2015 2.5L outbacks) was hard this first time. I found that ATRA.COM had a writeup and pictures covering most Subaru models with cvt. ATRA stands for American Transmission Rebuilders Association and the article is on the subaru lineartronic cvt. They show clear pictures with arrows to help you identify transmission and differential plugs for both the gen ii tr580 and the geni tr690 What they don't tell you is that the check plug and fill plug are both 8mm hex sockets and the factory over torques the fill plug so you need breaker bar to loosen. After reading about folks addin…

Finally got around to the long over due install of my engine and transmission mount.

You will need for wheel bearing replacement: - New wheel bearings - BFH - Breaker bar - 36mm axle socket that fits on your breaker bar - I believe I used every size between 10 and 17 - You'll also want at least a 17mm box end wrench - Obviously a socket wrench - A socket extension - Wheel bearing grease - Inner AND outer seals - Jack stands - Lug wrench (I really hope one of these lives in your car anyway...) - 10mm flare wrench for brake lines Additional bits if you're doing the brake upgrade: - The brake parts (TheSubaruJunkie has a really nice swap thread here <http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975> So I won…

I have had some experience repairing various fails of the duty c system. recently I had a solenoid fail mechanically bleeding off atf failing to lock the clutch packs yet the solenoid ohm tested fine and did not throw a tcu code. this all resulted in front wheel drive only this video depicts how I use air pressure to open the valve body and make sure pressure is applied to the clutch disks. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 there are several writeups on how to get to the tail section but I do plan on doing my own with pawl instructions! the one I did find in USRM the guy had a loose one he HOPED would not lock up…

So in taking out the 1.8 in my 93 impreza L and replacing it with the 2.2, I could not get the 2.2 in. It was in, but just lacking a quarter of an inch. So pulled the engine to examine what was going on. After alast ditch effort before just going inside and crying myself to sleep, I looked at all the holes. And low and behold, in one of the holes, the index/allignment pin was stuck in there from the last engine. Enter punch and hammer. Beat that sucker out. Mine was in there really tight. I hit it so the pin came out the back, tranny side. Thought I would share for all those who are having troublesome engines not going in. Could save you hours of monkeying around.

Automatic Transmissions' With shared or independent Differential Lubrication. Very Basically Talking, there are Two types of Lubrication Systems for the Differentials, that comes integrated onto the Automatic Transmission's Case, or "Transaxle" as those combos are known nowadays. ► First Type: The Differential has its Own Lubrication, independent from the Rest of the Transmission's Lubrication System and also uses its own independent Lubricant. ► Second Type: The Differential shares the same Lubrication system and the same Lubricant that is used for the Transmission. Also, very Basically Talking, there are Two types of ATF Additives, which independently from…

often referenced is a 'cocktail' used to help with shifting, clashing synchros. This mix is ONLY recommended for Subaru 5spd transmissions that are a little balky. It will not repair a broken transmission. It should not be used in any transmission with a filter. If it is not helpful, go back to using Subaru Extra-S or equivalent. 1qt. Redline Heavy Shockproof + 2 qts. Castrol Axle Lmited Slip 80W-90 + APPROX 1/3 BOTTLE of Pennzoil Synchromesh MTF (1qt. size), after checking level, add more to complete the fill if needed. more info available at the extensive thread here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674 The center diff…

Subaru wheel bearings often don't have traditional symptoms, or at least I've never seen one have "play" by grabbing the wheel. I've seen them have play once off the vehicle though, but that doesn't do you any good trying to diagnose insitu. I've seen enough threads asking how to confirm and having trouble verifying wheel bearings that I snapped a couple bad cell phone pic's while diagnosing one this morning in the dark. I use a temperature gun which I mention often on forums and so far it's been 100% successful. 1. Drive the vehicle. Get it up to operating temps. Take temps immediately after driving. 2. Aim the red dot from an infrared temperature gun as close…

Would anyone be able to identify the 5spd dual range wiring switches? Thanks!

So over a discussion about a better alternative to the 4 speed shifter slop problem with a machinist friend of mine we came up with an extremely simple, yet effective way to permanently rid the 4 speed of the slop. What we noticed was that the original hole for the roll pin is 8mm. That's .3149". One popular method is to drill this out to 3/8 and install a bolt. Now - if you look at a tap/drill chart you will notice that the proper tap drill for 3/8 x 16 is 5/16" (.3125") for 75% thread engagement, or "Q" (.3320") for 50% thread engagement. This makes the original hole only slightly larger than a 75% thread engagement tap drill with 3/8 x 16 thread. So I tapped …

THE DEFINITIVE REAR E-BRAKE RETROFIT SOLUTION! ► This writeup is intended for the '84 ~ '94 Subaru GL / Loyale \ EA82 Models which are the third gen of the Subaru Leone, however, you can retrofit the Rear disc brakes' system, from the EA82 lineup (third gen), to the EA81 lineup (second gen), and then, what I written here also will apply on the previous generation. ► "e-Brake" and "Park Brake" means the Same for this writeup. ► There are other Ways to swap a Rear e-Brake, but Usually they include expensive and / or hard to find parts, from Legacy or Impreza, even parts from the XT6, etc ... Here I want to explain an Easier and pretty inexpensive Way to do a Reliable…

I wrote this up a while ago to help someone: This applies to drum brakes on subaru's with the ej engine and select other makes(such as gen 3 vw's). If you have a different make then this may not apply. General tools: Sockets Wrenches Hammer Thread chasers Paper towels The tools specific to the job: Brake spoon Flare nut wrench Diagonal cutters Brake cleaner Brake fluid Dial Calipers Techniques without the tools made for the job: Brake spoon = bent flathead screwdriver Flare nut wrench = vise grips (may ruin the nut so be careful) or an adjustable Make sure the car is stable. Removing the drum: Remove the wheel Find the slot on the…

Hey everyone, I'm new to the board having just bought my first Subaru, a 1985 Brat GL. When I bought it it had 10-12 inches of play in the shifter, making it a true Wondershift- "Hmm, am I in a gear? What gear am I in? I wonder..." I crawled under the Brat and found that I had play in every possible location: where the linkage mounts to the trans rod with a roll pin, where the linkage mounts to the shifter with a bushing, and where the base of the shifter sits in the pivot attached to the transmission case. I came up with a cheap and easy solution to the rather common issue of shifter slop that I'd like to share with everyone. First you need to pull the shift…

i was thinking about doing a guide on how to replace the "duty c" or clutch transfer valve ( i think its called). this is on a 95 legacy wagon. well first you are gunna need parts and tools. 1. aa0061 transfer valve assy. picked up @ dealer for $127 2. the 2 gaskets that go with it. $4 a piece 3. tailshaft housing gasket. $8 4. Basic mechanics toolset 5. pb blaster (recommended!) 6. hammer ( i used framing hammer) 7. lube of some sort ( i used pb blaster silicon lube) 8. anti-sieze $5 i think 9. drain pan 10. a lift or jackstands or wheel ramps like i used. 11. jack ( if using jackstands or wheel ramps) 12. patience!!!! 1st i laid out a giant tarp so …

Short an alignment tool last time we changed the clutch on my Loyale, we poked around the garage looking for suitable substitutes. After trying a few different things we took a spark plug from the top of the motor "for the heck of it". It worked! The size was perfect! The insulated part goes in first, and the clutch plate will fit very nicely on the angley part where the socket/wrench would go. Don't know how the circumference compares for other motors, but I would imagine it is very close and may be worth a shot if you find yourself out a clutch alignment tool.

So, for all those of you who are suffereing from stinky burning gear oil from a leaky input shaft Front seal on the trans, I thought I'd do this write-up. Most tranny shops would chargbe BIG money to disassemble the tranny to replace that seal. Most would not even replace just this seal, they'd want to rebuild the whole thing for like $3000. Not an option for most people. Subaru FSMs show the disassembly as a very tough process, involing removing all the guts of the center diff, etc....ughh..... Thankfully That is not needed to replace the front seal!!! *****It's worth noting that I also replaced the front shaft bearing (the one with the dow…

Advices for Longer Constant Velocity Joints' Life! Having Changed Many Many Constant Velocity Joints on all these Years (Not only in Subarus), I've Found some Ideas that Really Helps to Extend their Life, that I Want to Share with you. Grease: C.V. Joints, needs the Very Best Quality Grease that you can obtain, Lesser Quality Greases equals to Lesser C.V. Joint's Life for Sure, the best additive for C.V. Joint's greases is usually known as Graphite but is written as MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide) and makes greases to be Approved for C.V. Joints, like these: Such additive is even used in Manual Transmissions and Differential gears, …

How to service your clutch and parts located in the bellhousing WITHOUT removing your transmission or draining the fluid 1. Lift the car up approx 1ft and support it properly 2. Place your jack directly under the transmission and apply a small amount of pressure to the bottom of the tranny, using the jack. 3. Unhook all cables and wires from the tranny, this is very important if you don't want to have to replace your speedo cable. 4. Unbolt the 4 bellhousing bolts 5. Secure the driveshaft to the rear of the transmission, baling twine or tie down straps work fine for this. 6. Unbolt the driveshaft from the rear diff, it should fall off the diff easily 7. Make…

5 lug conversion is pretty straight forward on the rear axle (Front wheels are much more complicated). 5 lug hubs from an XT6 are are straight swap if you use the backing plate, hub, and caliper assembly from an XT6. If you've already done the rear disk upgrade, all you really need is the backing plate and hub; calipers are the same. This applies to the 4WD versions of both the donor XT6 as well as the receiving gen2 Brat.