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Found 27 results

  1. 1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
  2. Hey guys I'm I'm need of advice ASAP I'm trying to narrow down what the problem.is in hopes of not ordering parts I dont need, I have a video to show you what's going on. Thanks in advanced
  3. Hey guys, it's me again Road trip was successful from Alaska to Southern California. Since I bought her in April, I've already put on 15,000 miles, including the road trip, passing the 250k mark. I've got to tackle an issue I've had over the summer to finally quiet down my front end. In May, I replaced both front cv joints, getting a new but not OEM part from Carquest/Advance auto (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-new-cv-axle-shaft-assembly-ncv66011/20870575-P?). When I took apart the knuckle assembly, I remember having to hammer out the original axle shaft to get it freed. When I put in the new parts, they fit in loosely, but I pulled them through using the axle nut as leverage. The car sounded great after that, the axles and hubs were quiet. After a while, both sides started humming (like white noise) on turns, growing subtly louder as days, weeks, and months passed. I finally replaced the bearings on the passenger side at the suggestion of this forum. It didn't stop the humming, so I got lazy and didn't replace the bearings on the driver side. I did make sure the axle nut was at the proper torque. I researched on here some more, and read that when replacing the CV axles, one should replace the spring washers and cone washers. I found those parts OEM on ebay and replaced them. No change in the hum during turns. Again using this forum, I found that overtightening, loosening, overtightening, loosening and overtightning once again on the axle nut is one way to make sure everything is snug; that the bearings are self-torque-something-or-other, so over tightening doesn't burden them. The humming lessened when I did this, but never went away completely. During the road trip, both axle nuts backed off a tad, and were stopped by the cotter pins. I did the overtightening/loosening/etc bit three times during that 5k miles, and finally the nut seems to stay in place. I am still getting hums/white noise on both, but it's a bit louder on the driver side. I checked all four wheels for play, and the driver side had probably 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play up/down and left/right. The other three are fine. I took apart the driver side assembly to the rotor, and when I checked the spindle, it's just loose. I can feel the play in the hub, and when I push it, it can easily be moved out of the knuckle. According to installation instructions, the axle shaft should be pressed into the hub using one of those do-dads. I hate replacing the bearings, but I will probably go ahead and do that on the driver side just for good measure - but I doubt that it'll solve the problem since it is still happening on the passenger side. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckAnENBIwBo Any ideas on how to quiet down my front end? Thanks again for all your input!
  4. Alright. How's everyone doing? Two days ago my front passenger CV axle blew. I was 100 miles from home. Started knocking, all that good stuff. No big deal right? Right. This lifted GL does not have it's original tranny, kay. As a rookie move, first bought a CV for the transmission, which came from a first-gen Legacy. WRONG. Returned it, bought a CV for the chassis, an '87 GL. WRONG. My car is up on stands in front of my place until I can figure this out. How can I identify and acquire the right axle??? The Legacy CV's outer spindle was too short. The GL's "receiving spindle" that connects to the diff. was too small by... maybe two MMs. Does anyone... Have any words of wisdom? I've swapped three CV axles in my life. Totally familiar with the process. But I've never had to do it with a FrankenSub. Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!
  5. Hi My 92 pickup has clicking sounds when turning right. Is it hard to swap the cv joint or should I swap for a new complete drive shaft ? Cant seem to find any write ups on it...
  6. I've got a 4.11 FD ratio transmission to replace the one that's failing in my 2002 legacy. This means I need a 4.11 rear differential as mine is 3.90. I found a great deal on one that is limited slip from a JDM WRX with low miles, only thing is the axles are slightly thicker at the splines on the WRX. How hard is it to take the differential apart and use the axle-holder-spline-bearings (sorry, don't know the part name) from my old differential so my axles will fit? Is this possible?
  7. having some issues in the rear end of my 01 outback. it has had a knock in the rear end for a while now. it is a four cylinder automatic with about 152k on it. just had a bunch of work done on it, typical maintenance stuff nothing really out of the ordinary, noc sensor, brakes, fuel filter, transmission fluid drain and fill, etc. ive had it for about 20 months or so now. it used to just knock when i put it in reverse. asked a couple mechanics about it and they didn't seem to think it was anything serious but its getting worse. i dont think its the transmission, but im certainly not much of a mechanic. it seems to be getting worse. i was recently on a road trip and had been on the highway for a couple hours and when i got into town and slowed down the car knocked really hard a few times that didn't sound good before it accelerated but it seemed more like a bind in the rear than the transmission slipping. it seems to knock now just accelerating but not all the time. sometimes it kinda jerks/shimmies a little while driving. today i had only been driving for about five minutes and stopped at drive thru and there was smoke coming from underneath the car, couldn't tell exactly at the time where it was coming from but thought underneath the car seemed weird. when i checked a little further down the road it seemed to be coming from the rear axle on the drivers side but was pretty clear and wispy. there is a burning smell that was more prevalent in the drive thru. the car has always had kind of burning smell that i noticed since ive had it and ive put almost 20 k on it. now it doesn't seem to be too bad and no smoke or anything and no major burning smell. im taking it to my mechanic tomorrow but wanted to give him somewhere to start bc when i just say 'fix my car' that doesn't ever seem to completely resolve the issues i need fixed. its always more of a fix whats broken/what i tell him thing. there is also a subtle ringing sound coming from the rear end that has been happening for a couple months i guess. its really faint but im a musician and pay attention to how things sound, esp my car, im kinda paranoid about it lol. its def coming from somewhere in the rear end. so im thinking it could be a bearing, or something up with the rear differential. it might be a good idea to just replace the whole rear end with so many miles on it rather than replace all the individual parts as needed bc i imagine the bearings and stuff are getting worn out. i get parts and labor for pretty cheap but i just put almost a grand into it. but id rather deal with it then have bigger issues down the road. i guess it could be a universal joint, possibly? lol like i said im not much a mechanic just want to have some ideas on the best way to handle this. seems to be running fine for the most part now with the typical knocking. i dont know if all of these things are the same or separate issues but i they are ccoming from the same vicinity. thanks in advance for any advice. much appreciated.
  8. Hey there, I recently ordered some replacement CV axles for both the front driver and passenger sides. I measured the old ones and since they were so beat up I wasn't super accurate with my measurements. I purchased new Surtrack axles online, the number of splines matched up and the length seemed right. However when I got them at my house I compared them to the old ones and they were apx. 2" longer, I thought I would try them anyways and though maybe they will compress more with some weight and and pressure. I got one in and it is definitely to long. I can get it into the steering knuckle and through the bearing all the way and put a axle nut on it all the way and get the other end on as well. The issue is now my steering knuckle is being pushed too far out from the control arm and ball joint. Does anyone have experience buying new axles for this model 1985 GL Hatchback 4spd Manual HI/LOW 4x4 1.8 OHV? Every store online that their axle will fit and has the correct splines but they are all 27 13/32 - 27 3/8 and I believe I need something closer to 25 3/8 - 26 3/8. If anyones has any suggestions or advice it would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get this Subie out on the Minnesota streets and lakes before the weather gets to warm! Thank you.
  9. After FINALLY getting my cv axle out of the front passenger hub to replace the bearings, the inner bearing came out with the axle! 'Tis stuck pretty good on there and I need some tips on how I can get it of without ruining a good axle. 87 FWD GL 3door
  10. I can't afford to get ripped off by a "dealership" or mechanic so I came to see if I can be a little more informed on whats going on to my 1996 legacy outback. (I love these cars, they are reliable and durable) Thanks so much in advance, and please correct me if I am wrong. So I have been on a road trip for a month or more and I am assuming due to regular mountain and heavy load usage (northern California sharp turning roads) I am now hearing clunking noises every time I steer left coming from the driver side front left tire area usually happens when going 45-65 mph, sometimes when going slower. I've also noticed its happening when I am decelerating or hitting the brakes. When it first hit me I was on the highway going 65 mph and my steering wheel started jerking like never before. I pulled over next town and did some internet research. I came up with a list of possible things it could be: Bad tire alignment steering rack axle ball joints cv shaft cv axle cv joints inner/outer tie rods wheel bearing lower ball joints​ ​I then went under the car and took some pictures, I am not too car savy but enough to do the work myself if it isn't re-building a motor. I need help figuring out what's causing the noise so I don't get ripped off if I have to go to the mechanic. From other forums and posts I have read it seems to be something I definitely need to take care of as soon as possible. The torn boot is in the front left driver side. I have noticed atf fluid leaks and sits in a puddle sometimes (can't be good?) Another angle Torn Steering rack & pinion boot or inner tie rod boot I believe? Another angle of the torn boot This is again the same torn boot, except this time in the photo the steering wheel is turned to the left as far as it can go (this is the way when it makes the clunking noise) It seems to be the Rack and pinion teeth that is being exposed? (This is where I get confused, is this the steering rack and pinion boot or is it the inner or outer tie rod boot? please help) How bad does it look? Again, another angle with the steering wheel turned to the left as far as it can go. CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) I believe, with the steering wheel turned to the left. Does it look bad? Again, another angle of the CV Axle boot (closest to the wheel) same position. So, what I am thinking it has got to be either a bad CV axle or CV joint? Or a bad inner/outer tie rod and boot. Or a torn Steering Rack & Pinion boot with a bad overall steering rack (Although I hear its rare). I am low on funds and really need to just get down to the nitty gritty of the problem and fix it. What must be done? I need your advice, tips and help. Thank you!
  11. I'm wondering what the spline count is on the front differential stub shafts of an XT6 transmission. Will EA81 axles slide right on, or do I need to swap out the stub shafts for EA81 parts?
  12. Help! Just took my 1998 Forester in for knock sensor replacement and was told the following should be done: knock sensor-$370 valve cover gaskets- $470 crank seals-$755 timing belt while they're in there because they have to remove it anyway -$100 just for belt no additional labor left front axle cover torn and grease is "going everywhere" - $393 So, my question is do I dole out $2000 + on this car? My daughter goes to school in Syracuse - 3.5 hour drive and the plan was for her to take it to campus in the fall. I'm freaking out! Thank you!
  13. So i was driving my 87 GL turbo, with the part-time (push button) 4wd 5-speed, and my front CV axle had been going out for a while, but finally earlier today did the dramatic "Crunch... POW!!" earlier and wouldn't drive in front wheel drive so I had no choice but to drive home in 4wd (Rear wheel drive) for about 15 miles. It drove the whole way perfectly smooth and it barely made any clicky click sounds around corners my concern is if this could have damaged my front Diff. or the Center Diff?? And what transmissions can be easily swapped in, I have an RX tranny, a non-turbo D/R 5speed from an 87 GL, and another non-turbo part-time 4wd 5speed in an 86 DL
  14. So i was driving my 87 GL turbo, with the part-time (push button) 4wd 5-speed, and my front CV axle had been going out for a while, but finally earlier today did the dramatic "Crunch... POW!!" earlier and wouldn't drive in front wheel drive so I had no choice but to drive home in 4wd (Rear wheel drive) for about 15 miles. It drove the whole way perfectly smooth and it barely made any clicky click sounds around corners my concern is if this could have damaged my front Diff. or the Center Diff?? And what transmissions can be easily swapped in, I have an RX tranny, a non-turbo D/R 5speed from an 87 GL, and another non-turbo part-time 4wd 5speed in an 86 DL
  15. 2000 Impreza outback sport - Manual Transmission 209k miles Hello all - It has been a while since I have been on here, but I know this message board is full of knowledge, and I'm having some trouble diagnosing a speed dependent clicking noise in the drive train somewhere. The clicking started before my last major project, in which i replaced: - All 4 Struts - Steering Rack - Both Tie rod ends - Rebuilt power steering pump - Both Front Axles - Both lower control arm ball joints - 4 New Tires - Transmission fluid (prior to this project, but still recently) Many may immediately jump to CV joint, but noticed the wear from the old damaged ones, and that is no longer noticable with the new axles, so i have ruled those out. The noise is speed dependent, i can feel the clicking in the shift knob, and when the clutch pedal is partially depressed, the noise is significantly louder.it is a relatively fast click - i think it is similar to the sound made when two wheels are off the ground, and you rotate the wheel one direction, and you hear the clicking from the differential. Seems to be speed dependent only and can be heard in any gear. My thoughts are: - Clutch - would a broken finger from the pressure plate cause such a clicking? - Differential - Transmission any help would be greatly appreciated. I do need to drive the car across the country in less than 5 days.
  16. Hi all Going to be doing the front struts and thought it would be a good time to change out the clicking front axle while I had it apart. So now for the question... It's clicking on left turns...so is it going to be the right axle? or is it the left one? The car: 2006 outback H6 Any help would be much appreciated
  17. I have a 2005 llbean outback 3.0 and seeking experience, evaluations of the heavy duty axles. "Theimportexperts" have standard axles and heavy duty axles. Has anyone used these axles? Are the heavy duty axles worth the price over the standard and compared to the OEM? Do the heavy duty axles boots last longer? Are they better than OEM? Your experience is appreciated. Thank you Monk in NC
  18. My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles. I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.
  19. We've had our 1991 Loyale Wagon (4WD) for a few years now and we've gone through about 4 sets of front axles, the last pair lasting about a month! We've been buying after market parts from O-Reillys and Napa, and from what we've read it's probably just cheap parts. I looked on Subaru's website and they've discontinued the front axles for this year. Another forum said the remanufactured ones from Subaru aren't worth the money, that the best soulution is the original axle. We're thinking about going to Pick-N-Pull to grab a used axle, but our specific model and year is hard to find. Has anyone been able to find either a reliable new part that works or used an axle from another year that fits? We also heard that you can put the Brat axles in these if you lift it, but we don't need to replace the back axle and would rather not put the time into lifting.
  20. I need both front axles and both rear out of a 78 brat... Mine are all making noise and whatnot. Used in good condition would be fine... Does anybody have any?
  21. ford'ssubaru's

    CV DRIVE SHAFT

    Hello All, It has been awhile. I installed a lift kit that was provided on the other topic. The kit has been cool and works great. I tore a CV boot and removed the axles. I replaced the boot and I can't for the life of me get the strut pulled in far enough to the center to reinstall. What am I missing here? Eric
  22. So about a month ago I noticed my power steering started to get harder and harder to turn. About a week and a half ago it began to make noise. Last week I replaced the pump and yet still no change. Today I blew an axle...yay me....so as I was under the car checking out my busted hub and axle, I noticed a small tear and the power steering boot. I squeezed it and power steering fluid came gushing out. Does anyone know if this is the cause of the squeeky and difficult steering, or is it something more internal? Also, of anyone has instructions on axle Replacment, that would be wonderful. Thanks guys!
  23. I've got a 2001 Outback 2.5L with 186,000 miles. About a year ago I replaced the front passenger side brake caliper after it froze up. A couple weeks ago the same caliper froze up while I was on the freeway. I drove a few miles to an exit with the steering wheel vibrating hard and towed it home. After replacing the caliper again I get a heavy grinding that is consistent with the rotation of the wheel. It sound like grinding brakes but real loud. Here are the steps I have taken before getting stuck: -checked brake lines, all look good -checked brake fluid, bled out all air, it looks clean and fine -installed new caliper -new brake pads on front brakes (old pads on passenger side had worn at a slight angle not parallel to back of pad) -had the rotor turned at local auto parts store I'm definately no mechanic but try DIY as much as possible. I was thinking it could be a bearing or bad axle but not sure. Any help on troubleshooting and how to fix would really be appreciated. I cant really afford to pay a mechanic
  24. so I have an 86 gl with 2" lift and the front inner boots keep splitting. I've replaced both axles around a month ago and they're both already split. Is there something I can do to stop this or am I just going to have to get really good at swapping them. I know the axles I got were not the best but I would think the boots would last a little longer than that. this car also has the adjustable struts, and they are in the lowest setting. I've put 2 sets of front axles in, in less than 1k miles.
  25. I replaced the front passenger axle on my 88gl 4wd 5spd 115k mi. because the boot was torn and slinging grease all over the engine compartment and on the exhaust. I wasn't having any problems with the axle other wise(no noise, clicking,ticking). So I got a remand from autohouseaz.com and put it in. Checked axle to best of my ability before install and seemed fine, put it in tightened everything up and and took it for a test drive through my neighbor hood. It makes a click/tick noise in sync with wheel speed ONLY while accelerating. It is more noticeable turning right than it is left. Again, it only happens when accelerating. Let off the gas, goes away. Not accelerating and making a turn, no noise. Apply go fast(ish) pedal mid turn, starts clicking. Let off gas, goes away. I jacked up the front passenger wheel and checked for any play side to side/up and down/in and out and everything is tight, no slop. Spin the tire and no grinding or metal on metal sounds. Removed the tire and break/rotor, nothing appeared amiss. Removed castle nut and re-torqued it. Took it for another test, still same issue. After reading through posts here I realize i should have just rebuilt the original Subaru axle seeing how i could have a bunk re-manufactured one. Also I could have wheel bearings starting to go out. I don't feel like wheel bearings could be the culprit only because I wasn't having any problems before replacing the axle. Checked the brakes and they spin just fine, no warpage or anything stuck in it or the tires. My goal is to sell the vehicle because I just inherited a newish truck and do not need her anymore/dont have the room but I do not want to sell it with this issue present. I'm perplexed as to why this only happens under acceleration. Is it possible I didnt get the wheel bearings seated properly? the castle nut is ran up like thge drivers side so I assume they were properly seated. Does any one know where to get an front passenger axle rebuild kit? I would rather do the work myself and know its done right instead risking getting another crap axle. Also where to get the wheel bearings? Thanks in advanced for y'alls responses
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