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Found 9 results

  1. Long post, but bit of explanation is needed. I have spent a couple weeks searching the forum, a lot of good info, a fair amount on the EA81, but not a lot for the 71. Most of the post are old enough that the photos are no longer there. Basically what it comes down to is I have an axle failing, and a parts car that I can still buy axles for. I have already swapped the rear over, and am now working on the front, but the suspension geometry has me a bit lost, mostly the strut tops, and wheel centering in well. I am lifting about 3 inches, already have 2 at the crossmember, and want to do 3 at the coil. On the EA81, when lifting, the strut tops move inboard as they go down, Do I need to compensate for this on the EA82 struts as well? If so, how much? I want to use the EA82 axles, I have the transaxle to go in, so splines/ratios are not the concern, but I need to move the lower arm out for length. I am thinking I can cut the 82 near the radius rod, and then drill/reinforce and use the 3 mounting holes that already exist on the EA71, thus avoiding much radius movement, or messing with the whole lower arm, Has anyone done that method? If so, how does it line up, or should I angle the last bit to compensate for wheel center? (#1 in Pics) It appears as thought the ends of the steering use the same rod, and therefore I can use the EA82 end, which is almost the exact length needed to fit the longer axle without toe issues, Is that correct? Or will I still need to add additional length other than the curved steering ends? (#2 in Pics) Thank you in advance, really need some confirmation before I screw with it much more. -Charlie
  2. Put in "new" Chinese axles. price too good to be true, Left lasted 75 miles and broke in two. In my 85 Brat.
  3. Howdy folks, long time lurker here, finally piping up with some questions. I’ve recently acquired a Gen 1 Brat with an EA81 motor and tranny swap. Things are running fine and it’s currently on the road, but I’m looking to drive it from Las Vegas back home to Toronto in a couple of months time when my current gig ends. To do so, I’m trying to compile a list of everything I’m gonna need to replace, acquire, fix and torque down. I’m hoping the USMB can help me out on this front as I try to get everything sorted out. First on the list, I’d like to replace the front axles - the boots on both are completely shot. I’ve read here that a lot of folks prefer having their original axles rebuilt rather than buying replacements. For my purposes, I’ll certainly hold on to my originals for future use, but to drive across the country, I’ll be looking to swap in some new ones. Word on the street is that EMPI have decent build quality, do Gen 1’s and Gen 2’s share the same axle assembly? Rockauto seems to suggest they don’t but it’s not totally clear. Do folks at USMB have a preferred vendor for EMPI? Lastly, if I’m replacing the axles I feel like I might as well do the wheel bearings too - is there anything else that falls in the same category of “might as well replace it” while the wheels and axles are off? I’ve got many more questions as I look to drop a weber on it, delete the EGR, tune up the cooling, switch over to Pertronix from points and possibly upgrade the alternator to a GM, but for now, any guidance regarding my axles and associated upgrades would be tremendously appreciated. Lastly, here’s a pic for those of you that are interested.
  4. Last week, I replaced the CV axles, ball joints, tie rod ends, and struts on my '87 Subaru GL 4WD. For some reason when I apply a lot of (engine) torque when the wheels are turned hard to the left, there's a huge clunk as soon as significant torque is applied. This baffles me, because I've taken it apart to inspect (again) and could find nothing wrong. The CV axles, ball joints, struts, etc., are brand new. The ball joints, strut mounts, hub, axle nuts, brake calipers, sway bar mounts, etc., are tight. I took the wheels off today and re-checked all this stuff. The wheel lug nuts are torqued properly and everything, and I also checked the strut mount screws and the nut that secures the end of the strut into its top mounting plate. The wheel bearings also looked good. They were smooth and tight, and I packed a bunch of grease in there before putting the axles back in. The car makes no weird noises whatsoever when I'm running down the road at 75 mph. It's only when I start a sharp left turn. At this point, I'm standing around scratching my head. Other than the clicking the old axle did (because the outer boot had a rip in it and a bunch of grit got into the CV joint), it didn't make the big CLUNK when I was turning. Anyone have ideas? Thanks!
  5. Hey Folks -- my Loyale wagon is making me a little crazy (and a little poorer) these days. There has been a clicking noise coming from the front end for about a year. While the noise is similar to that made by worn CV joints, it can't be the CV joints because both axles have been replaced in the last 2 years and the noise only seems to occur when the car is running down the road in pretty much a straight line. Up until recently the noise would go away after about 10 minutes of driving. What is even stranger is if I have a passenger, I don't hear any clicking at all. I thought it might be a wheel bearing but I can't find even the slightest play in either front wheel. Is my tranny (manual) about to self destruct?
  6. Hey all! Last summer I bought an 88 GL with a 2" lift that had just been put in. I was sketch about how that would affect the CV joints but decided to ride it out and see what transpired. Less than a year later I have replaced three, and am driving with two ripped boots right now. Looking at it what it looks like is needed is a longer axle shaft, and a longer boot as well because the boot tears where the angle is too extreme. ( brand new one been on less than two months ripped today. Real bummer). I don't want to take the lift out. Its part of what I love about the car, and the clearance is useful. But I don't know spoob to be honest. Where can a girl get custom axles? Does anyone know how I would make these? Can I buy different rubber boots that are longer that would fit and I can swap out? Are there slightly longer ones from a different model that can swap? Surely someone else must have done this before and figured it out. I know some people swap the whole set up from a different model to go to the other lug nut system, but I just have the custom alloy wheels and all the other parts are the original set up. Any word on this would be appreciated. I don't want to drop it, but I have to find a solution. Ta! Patty
  7. Re-packed and booted my orignal Front CV axles last month due to both Trans side boots ripping. I went with the Re-pack option because I was weary of inferior parts from over-seas. They just started clicking last week. So bascically I wasted my time and now I'm going to need to purchase something. Any "tried-and-true" suggestions on some budget axels? On Rock Auto's website I can get some A1Cardone's anywhere between 60-80/ea., Napa gets around 135 (after core)...Yadda yadda, feedback time. Thanks in advance.
  8. I need both front axles and both rear out of a 78 brat... Mine are all making noise and whatnot. Used in good condition would be fine... Does anybody have any?
  9. I've been putting off replacing the front, driver's side bearings on my 89 4WD wagon for about a month now. The howling/grinding noise was pretty unmistakable. I researched the forum here before diving in to see what bearings were best suited for the job. As luck would have it there are some great resources here. Most notably, some info about going 'sealed'. I'd never considered the option of using sealed bearings and thought it would be cost-prohibitive. Well, if sealed bearings truly are better, it's not cost prohibitive if you ask me. Especially when you consider the job in the full context. Frankly, I hate grease. Gas doesn't bug me, brake fluid is fine, oil is no problem. Grease sucks. So, if I can avoid grease again, I'll be fine with a few bucks more for some bearings that are sealed. Anyway, I'm running open bearings on the passenger side now and sealed on the driver. I'll likely replace the passenger side soon but really I'm just trying to test the sealed units. Does anyone have long-term results on the sealed units? As for the cost... Part # AXS 6207 2RSC3 from McGuire Bearing Company runs 12.79 Each "Precision" open bearings from NAPA run 8.99 Each I'm assuming that since I'm using sealed units there's no need to run grease in the hub anymore and that may also mean the inner and out grease seals are probably less important now too. I don't think I would run without them obviously, but I suspect that it's not as critical to replace them if they're in 'okay' condition since the bearings are sealed. Anyone want to chime in with some pros/cons on this issue? If sealed works out, I'm never going back to grease and cheap NAPA open bearings again.
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