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nomoaudi

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  1. 2000 OBW 2.5L My idle rpm's are "surging" . When at a stop , they will slowly settle down to the 500-550rpm range and right about when you thinking "oh my!? thats seems a little low." Something will bring them up (rpm's) to about 1000 and then the slowly settle back and the proccess repeats. Idle stablizer Valve?? Maybe, I have yet to get a manual . I'll pick up a chiltons or some such thing this weekend. Side note: Is there a head bolt re-torque duration or specification?? Thanks
  2. Whoa. 90,000. I should be so lucky as to have a subaru with only 90,000 miles. Invest your money in the car wisely. Throwing money at your car is a bad choice. I have a 1988 wagon with 230,000 miles that has never had the head gaskets replaced, only gone through one clutch, and starts quickly every time no mater how cold it is outside. It is however done for at this point, the little car was driven very hard without much work done to it and after riding around in my recently aquired 2000 outback I just can't stand driving the old soob anymore. I guess my point is , you have many more miles left on your forester (in theory). So maybe it only makes it to 230,000 miles like my loyal before you need to upgrade:headbang:
  3. 130,000 miles. Yes it is my first AWD car. I have not found any record of the clutch being replaced, yet. I'm going to call the dealer where most of the service was done and ask politely if I can have the complete records.
  4. Well I finally did it. Bought myself a newer car. A lovely 2000 limited wagon w/5speed. She has a few more miles than I had wanted but it was time for a car and she has had TONS of maintanence over the years. I am pretty much happy with the cars performace except for one thing. Going from a stop to forward or reverse. I just can not do this smoothly , ever, unless I slip the clutch a little bit. I get shudders , jumping and jearky starts all the time . My past 2 cars had manual trannies so I think we can dissmiss inexperiance. Excuse me three. 88 loyal DR, 88 toyota long bed 2wd, 75 bmw 2002 that has a little cam bump:grin: . Still have the loyal and the 2002. I have some theories as to why the clutch in my new soob is giving me problems (from a stop only). If I am moving, the car shifts smooth as ky. 1. There is air in the clutch hydraulic system. When performing the "pedal free-play" test. Initially I have an inch of pedal movement. After depressing the pedal a couple of times the free-play reduces to half an inch. Hmmmm. It should be somewhere between .16 and .45 inches 2. The clutch master or more likely the clutch slave cylinder is faulty. With a little pressure applied to the clutch pedal and subsequently the throw-out arm. I can push the hydraulic piston of the slave cylinder backwards into the body of the cylinder. I think you can include the reasoning in statement number 1 here also. The clutch slave cylinder is the only old and crusty thing on the car. 3. The throttle cable is not adjusted properly. When the car is warming up and idling high . 1000-1,100 rpm I can release the clutch pedal a little bit and the car with start moving, smoothly ( I did not release the pedal all the way while doing this but almost) . Smoothly in first or reverse. Once the car is warmed up and idling at 650 or whatever rpm it is supposed to I can't operate the gas pedal with out causing the rpm's to jump. I have a little free-play on the gas pedal but if I apply just a tiny bit of pressure the rpm's go from 650 right up to 1500-1800 and then will settle back down to 1,000rpm. I have tried multiple times to get the car's engine speed to increase slowly to a thousand rpm's but it just wont happen. Hmmmm. Thanks for reading my post. I will be purchasing a service manual for the car today .
  5. The 2003 might be the better choice (less miles and less likely to develope premature HG trouble) . But I do like the ride-height of the outback. Both of the cars in question are at a local dealership, I have exchanged emails one and a half times with a sales rep. I emailed and showed intrest, the sales rep replied thanking me for my intrest and suggested I call, I responded that I was busy and asked a few questions via email: Does the car have a warrenty/ or a gaurentee(sp?) of mechanical condition? Are complete service records available? May I take the car in for an independant mechanical inspection? I have not yet received a reply to my questions. It has only been a day , the rep could be gathering info.... Oh, now there is a 1999 OBW with 95,000 I found for half of what the price of that 2003 is. Man its good to have options!!! I'm pretty sure I can pull off a head gasket job my self. HMMMMM
  6. And thus , it is safe to conclude (from the evidence stated above) all cars will have mechanical issues, maybe. :-p It is smart idea to hedge your bets a little.
  7. 2003 legacy L w/35,000 miles or a 2001 OBW limited W/ 65,000 miles both have manual trannies (YEAH!!). If you were going to purchase one, which would it be and why? I hope my "new" car questions are not getting annoying yet, I'm trying to make a sound investment. As I have never paid over 4,500 dolars for a car (well , maybe over a several period of hot-rodding and suspension tuning I have, but not all at once), pulling the trigger on a 12-14,000 used car purchase makes me a little nervous.
  8. For the misfire. It might be possible that the there is enough of a problem to effect the exhaust gas temperature. Take a squirt bottle and shot the exhaust manifold close to each cylinder. You can try from cold start up to see which one takes longer to heat up or from hot to see whick cylinder is running colder. Or, if you have an IR thermometer that goes up to 1400 F you could use that. But the squirt bottle is totally "shade tree mechanic chic".
  9. The short block (new) was replaced @75,000 miles . THe car currently has 114,000. Not sure if the work was done before or after the new headgaskets were issued. Torque bind is caused when the outside wheels and the inside wheels (in respect to the direction of turn) have "difficulty" turning at different speeds? Right? Happens in my 88 wagon in 4WD if if the roads are not slippery enough. Or I turn to hard. How do I test for it ? I passed on the 98 outback I looked at.... just didn't like white. Should be a good car for someone.
  10. Today I'm looking at an outback , a little older than I had wanted for my "newer" soob but what the hey? At 75,000 the short block was replaced (new) because the dealer screwed up and the engine cooked itself, to the best of my knowledge the heads were only resurfaced and rebuilt. Timingbelt was reused and then replaced recently. Run away?? Cracked heads? Continue with the inpection of the vehicle with intent to purchase? I'm a little leary of rebuilt heads on a cooked engine myself.. Could it be a good car? 40,000 miles since it (the engine) was rebuilt. Thanks in advance
  11. Good to hear, of course what soob I get depends on what my tax return looks like. I saw an H6 w/vdc? , black, in the parking lot at QFC last night, looks good to me! But as mentioned in the first reply , the price difference between the H6 equipped cars and the 2.5 liter cars are substantial. Perhaps it has to do with supply and demand? Hmmm. Now that I've found the pricey car I would like to get it's time to go back a couple of years (96-98) and see what soobs appeal to me from that time. I think the "sticky" section has some lists of engine manufacturing dates. I'll check it out . Thanks for the input.
  12. My '88 wagon is starting to need more and more repairs and I'm thinking I deserve a new(er) car. Some might disagree about the deserving part of the above sentance, I assure you it is time for another car. I have looked the forum a little , searching for info on 2000 and newer outbacks (w/ the H6). Seems as though most of the discussion on the "new generation" page is in reference to mid to late 90's cars:confused: Perhaps soobs are so long lived that a decade old vehicle can be considered new?? To the point: What do I need to know about the H6 outback? Recalls? Known mechanical problems? Quirks? Gas milage? Thanks for your input.
  13. The shocks in my 1988 4wd DR wagon are useless. The car starts bouncing in the road is not "flat" enough, very disturbing. I see that KYB makes some for the rear but none for the front.... Correct? Who is making shocks for my (our) car. Oh, no lift kit or anything of the sort... no air lift either Thank you.
  14. Whoops I had intended to ask the forum if it is a must to replace the trim. Is it? The guy I talked to never said that I have to replace the trim, I asked him to see if it could be found and how much it would cost. Thanks for the info guys (and or gals). I will be getting the windshield replaced next week.
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