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98 obw front rotors...


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4 replies to this topic

#1 traildog00

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Posted 25 November 2003 - 06:27 PM

What is the easiest way to pull these off?

#2 99obw

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Posted 25 November 2003 - 07:01 PM

The caliper has two bolts that hold it to the pad guide. Remove those bolts and the caliper should slide off of the pads. Be sure to tie the caliper to the spring with a bungy or rope or something so it doesn't hang on the hose. The pad guide has two bolts, remove those. At that point the rotor should come right off.

I have had the best luck replacing the rotor and pads together with OEM parts. Be sure to buy OEM pads as they come with the guides and shims that you will need to do a proper job. Take the brake reservoir lid off and make sure that the brake fluid won't overflow when you press the piston back into the caliper with a large c-clamp. Sparingly coat the guides with neversieze and the shims with brake anti-squeal. Install the pads in the pad guide. Clean the new rotors thouroughly with brake cleaner. Spray off the new pads with brake cleaner and carefully put it back together without getting any dirt or grease on it.

A tip from the FSM,

NOTE:
If disc rotor seizes up within hub, drive disc rotor
out by installing an 8-mm bolt in holes B on the
rotor.

These are the holes that don't have studs through them.

#3 alias20035

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Posted 25 November 2003 - 10:26 PM

Originally posted by 99obw
The caliper has two bolts that hold it to the pad guide. Remove those bolts and the caliper should slide off of the pads. Be sure to tie the caliper to the spring with a bungy or rope or something so it doesn't hang on the hose. The pad guide has two bolts, remove those. At that point the rotor should come right off.

I have had the best luck replacing the rotor and pads together with OEM parts. Be sure to buy OEM pads as they come with the guides and shims that you will need to do a proper job. Take the brake reservoir lid off and make sure that the brake fluid won't overflow when you press the piston back into the caliper with a large c-clamp. Sparingly coat the guides with neversieze and the shims with brake anti-squeal. Install the pads in the pad guide. Clean the new rotors thouroughly with brake cleaner. Spray off the new pads with brake cleaner and carefully put it back together without getting any dirt or grease on it.

A tip from the FSM,

NOTE:
If disc rotor seizes up within hub, drive disc rotor
out by installing an 8-mm bolt in holes B on the
rotor.

These are the holes that don't have studs through them.



The above instructions are good and complete!!

Spray the hub/disc rotor interface area with penetrating oil. It should help it pop loose.

Be careful to not strip the "rotor pull" threads. If your replacing the rotor some gentle persuasion with a hammer before theading the bolts in to pull it off wont hurt (it will destroy the rotor though).

#4 gbhrps

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Posted 26 November 2003 - 08:16 PM

The only additional thing that I do to make sure that I can get all those bolts off easily next time, is to put anti seize compound on all of the bolt threads. As well, I also put some on the inside of the rotor face where it mates with the hub. Make sure that you don't get any on the rotor surfaces or the wheel studs when you reinstall the rotor.

#5 99obw

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Posted 28 November 2003 - 11:00 AM

Definately good advice for us salt belt folks gbhrps. I like to coat the heads of the bolts as well to prevent corrosion of the hexagon.




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