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Any tips on Forester T-belt replacement?


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I recently did a cam belt on my 98 Legacy GT. Here are a few things I noted.

 

Take the radiator out. This makes a lot more room.

 

Loosen the bolt on the AC pulley before turning the adjuster bolt. Mine was plastic and I broke it.

 

If you aren't taking the crank bolt off with an impact wrench, have some one hold the brakes to keep the car from moving when you wrench on it. I had a 4 foot pipe on a breaker bar and was able to move the car easily. Supposedly there is a place to insert and pin to stop the engine from turning, but I didn't see it. If you have an auto, an impact wrench would be better. Clearing the condenser may be a problem. Get a good universal joint and it should work. It worked on my Mitsubishi van anyway

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Be sure to check the cam belt tensioner. You may want to replace it and the water pump since you have everything apart.

 

Watch the your don't get your hand under the cam belt on the sprockets. They have move suddenly if on the top of a lobe. It is an uncomfortable sensation.

 

Be sure you tighten the crank bolt. They can come loose and crank pulley will wobble causing problems.

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dont pull the radiator. take the cooling fans off, save yourself a few gallons of coolant. if its dual cam 2.5 before u take your old timing belt, take needle nose vicegrips to hold the pulleys in place since they are under spring pressure from the valve springs.

 

If its a SOHC engine its almost identical to the 94 impreza belt you put on

if its a DOHC you are going through the same motions, just with 2 more pulleys and a lil different marks. intake pulley marks point at 12 oclock, passenger exhaust pulley mark points at 9 oclock drivers side exhaust pulley mark points to 3 oclock. if u have them in the right spots, the double hash makes on each pulley will light up together

 

as for taking the crank pulley off, of u have a strap wrench or a chain wrench u can hold the crank pulley with that

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