keltikrewser
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Posts posted by keltikrewser
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thank you!!! thank you!!! thank you!
i should have some fun workin' on these dimensions. i know i've got about 18" or so to work in front of the wheels on the bug, which is only going to set them about 4" forward from the trans. i'll have to bust out the calculator and figure out some angles for the front axels to see if they'll work.
an awd cabrio would make a pretty cool ride too, R32? well maybe an R25
i also thought an awd caddy would be pretty fun too, but with all that work i might as well just get a brat.
thanks again for you help with the dimensions, and taking the time to get them for me!!
ryan
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found this on outback's page, nice little chart to guide a build for the power you want
looks like anything over 450 hp and you'll have to enlist their helphttp://www.outbackmotors.com/motor_matrix.htm
also found their racing pistons, wouldn't it be nice to not have to worry about bouncing the valves off the top of the pistons in your 2.5, piece of mind for only $660, not to mention the 30 psi of boost they'll take:clap:
happy dreaming,
ryan
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stumble upon this company while flipping through Hot VW's. looks like they deal mostly with sand rails, but the sell lots of fun engine stuff:clap: they sell turnkey motors ranging from 300-600hp. they don't list a price for the 600hp motor, but the 500hp version will run you $16 grand
http://www.outbackmotors.com/index.htm
thinkin' between 400-500hp would be fun in my bug
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stumble upon this company while flipping through Hot VW's. looks like they deal mostly with sand rails, but the sell lots of fun engine stuff:clap: they sell turnkey motors ranging from 300-600hp. they don't list a price for the 600hp motor, but the 500hp version will run you $16 grand
http://www.outbackmotors.com/index.htm
thinkin' between 400-500hp would be fun in my bug
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right now my bug has a 2.3 turbo out of a t-bird hanging out the back. the radiator has replaced the back seat, and the rear windows do have ducts in them plumbed to a custom air box that surrounds the radiatorand directs the air out the back of the car. as far as the frame goes, my plan was to replace the pan with a new one made from tubing where it bolts to the body, integrate a cage into that, and a front sub frame that connects to it for the engine, front susspension, etc. as far as my abilities go, i went to wyo tech and took there street rod/ customizing course. I learned everything from chopping tops(also on the to-do list) and custom body work, to building roll cages, and full custom frames, and pretty much everything in between. i know how to MIG and TIG weld, and have a fare amount of custom fabrication and basic machining expireince, the building of the car, frame, etc. doesn't really worry me, its just knowing how much room i have to find to make it all fit.
jaws, if you look further down the tread i posted dahlback's web site showing their front suspension setup, with the front axels swept forward just like you said. im glad to hear someone with some of the same ideas that i've been kicking around, it gives me a little more confidence in them.
thanks again guys
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i've got an '89 XT-6 with 3.9's in it not sure about any others
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not to be a downer, but im seeing the same problem that i'm running into with my bug, not enough room between the front axel and the nose of the body. it would be alot easier to take care of that with all that ground clearance though, i don't have that ah.... luxury?
looks like fun though:grin:
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that's a killer idea, almost all of my VW expierience is with air cooled, i didn't even think about a westy. now if only i can find one. looked around on ebay and autotrader, looks like it would be cheaper to go with that porsche drivetrain. saw one for $30k
still hoping to find a way to squeeze the motor in up front, but a syncro is definatly a solid back up plan.SvRex my XT6 is a 5 spd, if you could get those dimensions for me that would rock:headbang: I've been trying to get out to Cindy's to get some measurements but they're closed on the weekends and i work at a marina and we've been swamped with boat winterizing for the past month.
thanks for the help and ideas, find anybody with a syncro for sale let me know:grin:
ryan
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nice site spyder!
couple of questions on your diagram of the suby engine and VW transaxle:
1. does your measurement of the engine (420mm)include the radiator? if not what does it go to? front of timing cover? front of belts/pullys?
2. any chance you could get a measurement to the center of the drive axel with the suby tranny? how close is it to the 618mm with the VW trans?
3. if im doing my conversions correctly 420mm = 16.5 inches and 618mm = 24.33 inches
thanks in advance for any help and good luck with your project!
ryan
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huh?
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new link that actually shows you what i was saying about those front axels
http://dahlbackracing.se/english/projekt/golf_rs1.html
also what engines will work with the tranny in my XT6? trying to figure out if i want to use my XT as a donor or try and get my hands on something else, like a mid 90's impreza or legacy, any thoughts?
thanks ryan
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wonder if someone could do me a favor? any chance i could get an approximate measurement on a 1.8L or 2.2L from the center of the hub to the front of the engine(farthest forward point of the belts/pulleys) i've been tying to get out to cindy's to see if they'll let me wonder around but i haven't had a chance. if someone could grab this distance for me that would be awesome.
i also found that article about that AWD golf, here's their web site
http://www.dahlbackracing.se/english/main.asp
if you look at the picture of the underside of the front susp. it looks like he did what i was talking about with front cv's running them forward a little, if the messurements that i've worked off scaled drawings are correct i should only need to push the front hubs forward a couple of inches. if that VW can hold 900 hp like that i'm thinkin' 3-400hp shouldn't be a problem. also, that Audi 5 cyl is running down the center like it should be:grin:
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does anyone know where i might be able to find some scaled technical drawings of a subie drive train, i've been looking and can't seam to find any
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i actually got this i dea when i was flipping through an old issue of sport compact magazine. a guy had built a gen 4 golf with a newer audi quattro drive train, i think it was a 2.3L or something like that, he was running about 45psi of boost and getting some where around 900 bhp
if i remember right. i figured if he could make that work than i've got a shot at shoving a 2.2 into the front of my bug. i guess only time will tell, like i said until i actually get my car up to my house i might as well be designing the next spaceship 1til laterryan
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feel free to flog me, but when i bought my xt6 last winter (first soob) i went to cindy's subaru heaven (20miles from my house)to get some info about the xt, common problems, special fluids, oil rec. that kind of thing, since all the stickers and manuals were either gone or unreadable. Mike, the owner, says he uses nothing but straight 30w all year, keep in mind i'm in wisconsin, negetive degree days are not that uncommon in the winter. i ve had no problems with it so far and i drive 50+ miles a day to and from work
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front engine awd is the plan. however all my measurements to date have been done by scale off of pictures i have(my bug is about 2hrs away in storage right now) it looks like its going to be an extreamly tight fit at best, from my scale measurements i've got right aroung 20" from the center of the front hubs to the nose of the bug. im planning on a tube chassis with a one piece glass frontend so i should be able to use almost all of that space. my xt is about 24" from the center of the front hubs to the front of the engine. im planing on using either a 2.2 or 1.8 which should be shorter than the 6cyl? right? if anyone could possibly check that for me that would be awesome:D i don't know any one localy with a 4cyl and Cindy's doesn't like to let you walk around:banghead: so the length of the 4 cyl is going to determine how far forward im going to have to get the front hubs. i was thinking of just utilizing the ability of the cv's and running the axels forward slighty, but thats going to limit my turning ability. lately ive been playing with the idea of running some sort of gear reduction box to bump the axels forward, which would also let me run smaller tires in the front. anyway right now the whole thing is pretty much a big mess in head and some scribbles on paper until i can get my car up to the house, so ive got plenty of time to come up with hair brain ideas.
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i bought my '89 XT6 last november. someone before me decided to get rid of the air suspension and put springs on what im assuming are the original struts(they still have the warning: do not undercoat sticker on them). the rear seams to be alright, however they must have decided that the front needed something a little beefier because the struts are maxed out and the springs are stiff as a board, i way 250 and if i jump on the bumber i can move them a little bit, right now theres like 9-10" between the top of the tire and the tire well. what springs can i use to make the front ride correctly? would i be able to use springs from the same car on the rear if i decide to do all 4 corners? are there springs i can use that would lower the car slightly 3/4-1.5"? is there a coil over kit or way to use a coil over kit possibly from an impreza so that i might have some ride height adjustability again without using airbags? im sure these questions have been asked more times than you guys would like to here but if there's a quick answer or you can point me to the proper location that would be great.
thanks for the help
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new member sayin' hi,
just letting you guys know i will probally be bugging the crap out of you for retrofitting tips. i know that putting a subaru engine in a bug is technically a transplat, but i plan on using the entire drive train as well, so im sure that some retro-custom-modifing will certainly be involved. i just recently got into subarus, bought a '89 xt-6 for $500 as a winter beater and fell in love. anyways the xt's wheel base is about 1/4" -1/2" off from the bug so i was planning on using that as a starting point, however i was hoping to go with some sticky suspension (2.5rs/wrx)and some high horsepower provided buy outback eventuallly. right now i'd just like to get drive line and suspension setup and work out the bugs. anyways nice to be aboard, hope my ignorance won't be too anoying:banghead:
p.s. i live near a rather large subaru specific salvage yard, so if i can't add knowledge maybe i can help find some parts:D
'66 awd VW
in Subaru Transplants
Posted
my plan is not for an off road machine, its for a street car that may take a trip or two to the drags. not that im expecting to set any speed records, but i do think that it will be fun to blow the doors off all the freaks from my home town who think that the only car worth driving wears a bowtie (theres a GM plant there and i've heard it my whole life for not driving them)
depending on what i can find id like to start off with a 2.2L or 1.8T, but the plan is to end up with a 300-400hp 2.5L. a carbed non turbo 1.8, never really an option. right now due to a lack of equipment and space, i'm thinking i might just toss a sube engine in the back and see how i like that.