dromond

I never thought I would recieve such an unbeleivably specific response. Thank you! Also, this doesn't matter really but I'm curious as to what are the "sniffers that other states use." And good observation about the cheapness factor. I'm no liberatarian but I'm about as cheap as they come. Thanks again to everyone for the interesting and helpful advice!

Damn, you people are full of good ideas! Why the rear O2 circuit, exactly? (I know very little about emmisions systems if you couldn't tell.) As for my conscience, it's just dandy Not only does the car perform to state specs based on the tailpipe emmisions, but I avoid driving my car unless necesarry. I commute by bicycle, carpool and public transit. However it's hard to ski on powder days without your own vehicle. AWD and snow tires help a lot,too! My first guess would be that the inspector will check all of the dashboard lights when the car is first started to make sure they aren't burnt out.

For curiosity's sake, is there any way to tell if the "not ready" indicators are on without the code scanner?

First off thanks a lot for the reply. I've actually already spoken with my machanic about replacing the O2 sensor and it's starting to sound like a very good idea. The clarification helps a lot! cheers

I may be dumb, but I can't figure out exaclty what this means. This is in reference to me getting my 1996 Legacy Brighton wagon inspected. It's running well except that I always get the OBD code for the emissions system. It's done this since I got the car 1.5 years ago and passed inspection just fine last year. However this year the law is different and it won't pass with the check engine light on. Since I don't exactly have the $1500+ right now to replace that catalytic converter I'm trying to find a way to squeeze by. This is the state law on the OBD inspection. There appears to be an exemption for my model year, but I can't figure out exactly what it means. Does it mean the car will pass as long as no codes come up even if it hasn't run through all of the drive cycles yet? I'm put the parts of concern in bold. If anyone has some experience with this I'd really appreciate the advice! (And yes, I just got a code scanner.) Saf-C 3223.03 On-Board Diagnostic System Inspection. (a) All results of the on-board diagnostic system inspection shall be recorded on form DSMV 532. ( An inspection of the on-board diagnostic system shall consist of: (1) A determination of whether the MIL is operational; (2) A determination of whether the MIL is illuminated while the engine is running; (3) A determination if the MIL is commanded on or off; (4) If the MIL is commanded on a determination of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC); and (5) A determination of the readiness status of the OBD II system components. © A vehicle subject to the on-board diagnostic inspection shall be rejected for inspection for the following reasons: (1) The DLC is missing, has been tampered with, or is inoperable; (2) The MIL does not illuminate with the ignition key in the ‘key on, engine off’ position; (3) The MIL is illuminated when the engine is running; (4) The MIL is commanded on for one or more OBDII diagnostic trouble codes; or (5) The MIL is commanded to be illuminated and is not visually illuminated. (d) If a vehicle is rejected for testing, the customer shall be instructed to return after the vehicle has been run under conditions that allow completion of all applicable on-board tests if: (1) A scan of the on-board diagnostic system reveals a “not ready” status for 3 or more monitors on manufacturer’s year 1996 through manufacturer’s year 2000 vehicles, inclusive, or (2) A scan of the on-board diagnostic system reveals a “not ready” status for 2 or more monitors on manufacturer’s year 2001 and newer vehicles. (e) If a vehicle is rejected pursuant to Saf-C 3223.03© or (d) above and the vehicle fails to return for and pass an inspection by the tenth day of the following calendar month, the inspector shall follow the rejection procedure specified in Saf-C 3211. In lieu of rejection form DSMV 27, an inspector shall complete and submit the OBD Inspection Form DSMV 532. Source. (See third Revision Note at chapter heading Saf-C 3200) #7731, eff 7-26-02 Saf-C 3223.04 Test Results. The inspection station shall provide the customer with a copy of form DMV 532 or a printed report with the same information as required in form DMV 532, containing the test results, including, but not limited to, the following information if applicable: (a) The OBD II-related diagnostic trouble codes retrieved; ( The name of the component or system associated with each diagnostic trouble code retrieved; and © Whether the MIL is commanded “ON” or “OFF”. Source. (See third Revision Note at chapter heading Saf-C 3200) #7731, eff 7-26-02 Saf-C 3223.05 Exemptions from Rejection Criteria. The following vehicles shall not be rejected for inspection due to “readiness” status as specified in Saf-C 3223.03(d) above: (a) All new vehicles with an odometer reading of less than 1000 miles; ( The following model year 1996 Chrysler vehicles: (1) Avenger; (2) Sebring/Talon; (3) Cirrus; (4) Intrepid; (5) Concorde; (6) New Yorker; (7) LHS; (8) Vision; (9) Neon; (10) Status; or (11) Breeze; © All models of 1996 Subaru;

Perhaps I didn't make it clear but although I've gotten through winters with FWD and summer tires I've often had to drive very, very slowly and still not had nearly as much traction as I've desired. I've also come very close to getting stuck, not making it up hills, etc. etc. Basically I know hod to do it but sort of hate it! Thanks for the advice everyone!

I've done a lot of searching through the forum - great info there - but I have a peculiar question. I've been driving a 97 Legacy wagon for several months now and all is well. Winter is coming to new england and I definitely need something winter-specific. The vehicles I've driven before just had all season tires and FWD. While that is great for honing your winter driving skills I am downright excited about having AWD and snow tires. Points: I go skiing the morning after/during big snowstorms which means lots of driving on unplowed or packed-snow roads. We also get a fair bit of ice. The catch is that I'll probably be moving (and driving) cross-country next year and wouldn't be lugging a set a tires that far. I'm also very very poor. Think college student poor. So do I just find the cheapest studded tires I can find and not care that the studs fall out fast? Or maybe get a set of used tires? (Seems like I'd be shooting myself in the foot there?) Where should I look for that sort of thing? cheers

I just installed the factory tach yesterday. It works like a charm! I couldn't find the stock Subaru bulb so I used an equivalent one. It was actually even a bit too big and it still worked fine. I also didn't have the little blue bulb condon for it and that also made no difference. Can't tell on the display at all. Thanks everybody!!

Really? I could have sworn that the 97 2.2 engines were non-interference? Didn't they change when they went to 2.5? Luckily the belt was just changed. Cheers.

I have the 2.2. Does this make the manual more relevant?

I just got a pre-loved 97 Legacy Brighton. I also picked up an old 1985-96 Chilton's Subaru repair manual for next to nothing. I'm hoping this will still be some help? (Very generally) how much changed between the 96 and 97 Legacies? I'm just looking to get a better understanding of the inner workings of the vehicle for future maintenance purposes. My apologies for the general newb-type question. It's hard to figure out where to start on these things.

Thanks anyways

Not to be a broken record, but does the bulb look anything like the bulb I have? (Pictured above.) I just want to find out before I have the cluster in pieces and find out it's not the right one.

Cool. I ordered the factory tach and screw set. Is this the right bulb? It's a sylvania #74 I picked up: http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/141/img32139mt.jpg (And yes, it's very tiny, just shot with a macro)

I'm about to do this myself. Questions: Does anyone have the part number for the screw kit, or know what it's called, exactly? Any more info on the bulb? Has anyone found anything that works at a Napa or somesuch?

I'm looking to buy a used Impreza wagon with a manual trans. From what I gather the 2.2L engine has many fewer reliability problems than the Phaze I & II 2.5L. It also appears that the head gasket issues began around 1998. I assume this is just with the newer 2.5L engines. What I'm wondering is if the 2.2L engines in the 1998-2001 models are mostly the same as the pre-98 models? My main goal is to find a well-maintained, reliable vehicle; and I don't need the extra power of the 2.5. Is there any reason not to go for the 2.2? From a reliability standpoint, what are the other major differences between the 97-01 models? I apologize for my meager knowledge, but then again that's why I'm here. cheers