jmmctighe

Excellent replies everyone, thanks! When I asked about using rubber the NAPA guy, who I know and trust, very knowledgeable, was saying the ATF properties seep into the rubber and make it spongy. I was kind of doubting this since part of the lines on this vehicle are rubber but I'm just a DIY'er, what do I know about rubber hose properties. Bought a metal fuel line that I was gonna use but I'll switch to rubber and replace all the clamps. Thanks again guys! John

Hi all, Need some advice for repairing a rusted auto transmission line in my 00 OBW. The line has rusted where it connects to the rubber L hose that connects to the radiator. The only replacement part I can find for this is that L-shaped rubber hose, which is fine. Anyone know of where to get the metal hard lines or a suitable way to utilize a rubber line to replace it? My fear is that using rubber over the 3-foot distance may degrade from the ATF fluid and heat and would prefer to use the hard line. I see this, http://tinyurl.com/6dqelz5 but is listed only for the GT and L model legacy. Would this work and if so, what hose couplers should be used? BTW, I had the hose clamps on this thing and will replace them with you more typical clamps. TIA -John

'00 OBW, there are I believe 12 horizontal elements running across the rear window. The top 6 elements work, the lower 6 do not. Any ideas on why this would occur? Anyone know if the entire rear windows is on two circuits or if this is the result of a break btw say the 6 and 7 horizontal grid line? I've taken my multimeter to some of the non-working elements and didn't see any continuity Has anyone else experienced this? John

That happened to me on my 95. The hood sheet metal isn't too thick so I hammered it out with my hand on the side of the road so I could get the hood down (and secured the latch) so I could keep driving to work. You should be able to hand-hammer with a rubber mallet enough to get the hood closed but it wont ever go back to flat. I had a wavy hood till I traded it it. The bigger question may be why your hood let loose. Do you know why? I'd fix that before I do anything. My problem was I popped the inside latch to change my oil the night before, but never changed the oil and forgot about it until the next day on the highway. Luckily I saw the hood begin to move so what was a surprise wasn't as bad as it could have been. -- John

when the wiper is "at rest" how far from the bottom of the windshield/cowl is it? As said before, iether the nut holding the arm is loose and the arm is flinging too far with low friction (wet) or the nut is loose and when dry is tight enough to hold but when wet acts a s alube to allow the arm to move. Bent linkage I would think would result in less travel, not more. John

Well, I just filled with 93 octane from Mobil and though the ping is lessened, it is still there. I'd think at 93 octane there shouldn't be any pinging whatsoever (I'd also think this on 87 for any well running, good condition vehicle). Hell, the 95 LS I traded in with 170K NEVER pinged on cheepie gas. Can't say I'm thrilled. I think I'll need to look elsewhere, perhaps a vacuum leak or....I dont know, its just frustrating. Having worked on cars all my life I would never accept tht a ping is normal. Anyone know of a way to modify the timing w/o use of a replacement chip? The reason I started the post was that when I asked the Service dept about this they claimed it was the ethanol causing the increase in ping and hesitation complaints they've received. As I look on this forum there doesn't appear to be many, if any, ethanol realted issues on this.....interesting. Is this just another convenient excuse used by the service dept? John

I seem to be having a pinging problem on my '00 OBW. I currently have 76K on it and plan on doing a tune up since I'm not exactly sure what the dealer did prior to my purchase. They claim the plugs were changed @ 60K and wires don't need to be done until later....I've always replaced wires by then. I did change the air filter and recently did an oil change with castrol syntech (not that the oil matters but I want to show I'm keeping up with maintenance). Anyway, is one effect of ethanol a ping on light acceleration or going up steady inclines? I've used 87 and 89 octane, added a big bottler of techron, and even with the techron, I still had the ping. Any advice? John

Move the driver's seat all the way back (optional if you're skinny...I'm not) Crawl under the dash Look for the box that has <part number> DRL. It's black, right in the middle. There are two plugs here, unplug the white plug (I think, see note below) As long as you leave the black plug as is, your headlights, parking lights, fogs, dash lisghts will work as they should. If you unplug both, nothing will work NOTE: If this doesn't work, I may have the colors reversed. Plugging/unplugging does no damage

My 95 legacy 4EAT had 175K when traded. Standard fluid changes at required intervals is all that was done. I'd think the tire sizes and inflations have more to do with the differential than the auto tranny itself. -- John

Traded in my 95 LS wagon three weeks ago, 175K with original springs and struts. Remarkable considering the moon craters we call roads around Boston. -- John

Thanks for the replies. I was clued in over at AAS that the OEM autodim mirrors for that year were from Donnelly. However, after checking the docs that came with the vehicle, one card for the mirror is from GETNEX which does the 05 and 06 subes. So it appears the original mirror was replaced at the dealer by the current OEM. Now the wierd part. The line runs up to the front bumper but the probe and mount are not there. So I figure either the probe and mount broke off (but the connector plug is still there intact) or the front bumper was replaced. May explain why the fog light covers are missing also. I dont mind, I like that look better. I checked over the car carefully for signs of panel replacement etc and didn't see any so whoever did it, did a good job. Now, do the dealers sell the mirror componenents or just the entire assy? -- John

Hi all, just got a new-to-me 2000 OBW ltd. One item I need to fix is with the temperature display on the mirror. What I thought was 0 degrees C (it was 32 degrees F outside at the time) was reall the display "OC" or Open Circuit error. Can anyone tell me where the temp sensor is on this vehicle or if there is a fix for this besides replacing the mirror. I'm hoping its simply disconnected but if not I want to follow the line with a meter to see where the break is. TIA, John

My '95 manual states to use 10W-30 or use 5W-30 in colder climates...also says not to use 5W30 if you do high speed driving for prolonged periods of time. So what about me where I live in MA (cold winters) and drive 40 miles to work on the highway (80mph)? So scew it, I run castrol 10W-30 from April to Novemeber, Castrol Synth Blend 5W-30 from Nov thru March. 175K to date, runs fine

95 LS 2.2L auto, I have an oil leak which appears to be from where the oil filler neck bolts to the valve cover. Oil is only leaking in tha area does not appear to be the valve cover gasket as there is oil above this location, but not above where the neck bolts to the cover. I've tried the usual place like 1stsubaruparts but all the have is the valve cover or compete engine gaskets. Any idea where I can get just this gasket? Can I simply use RTV silicone gasket or should I start comparing to thermostat gaskets to modify one to fit? -- John

Have you checked the front tire pressure? I had a similar issue and the LF tire was down to about 26 PSI -- John