rick

Is there any easy way to do it? woud it be easy to do it at home or is it a job for a shop (special tools)? Thnxs.

sounds like real challenge......apreciate all the info!

......any tips/tricks how to take it out? It's very rusty (danger of breaking off?) and there's very little space to remove it with reg. wrench. Any spec. tool required? Thanx. ('93 Loyale 4WD)

Would the fact that the rpms on idle kepp around 1200 instead of 7-800 previously have anything to do with incorrect vacuum? Just another mystery.........

I followed all instructions from the manual (Haynes) but the items in question are not answered in detail there. My problem is, that I'm not getting any vacuum to the EGR solenoid. Anyone can help with that?

What woud be the correct procedure when checking the presence of a vaacum on the EGR system? Should there be vaacum present on the line going to the solenid (from the throttle body) at all times (with engine running) or is there something else involved? Just checked the valve and found out that there is no vaacum present going to the EGR solenoid. Also the valve doesn't move with increased revs but causes stalling when moved manually. Any idea how do I check the lines? On another note, just saw on a throtle body, left hand side, large sort of adjusting screw right behind the air control solenoid. Is it for idle speed adjustment? Coldn't find reference to it anywhere in the manual. Thanks.

It's rattling noise (valves?) always at certain rpms, acceleration and also when going uphill. I had tune up done recently, and seems it got worse after that. Any thought?

I had previously problem with the EGR Solenoid Valve, which I replaced (after driving with it for about a month) and the code cleared up. Is ir possible that the EGR valve got damaged and is causing the series of problems? Any ideas,suggestions? Thanks.

My question is what would cause high HC and CO in emmision readings? The only thing I noticed lately is increased knocking during acceleration, would that have any effect? I did the usual before the testing (filter, oil, plugs, timing) but stil failed. Also, I noticed the coolant is overflowing at times from the plastic reservioir when the engine gets hot. When cold, the coolant drops almost below the min. level. Another strange thing is , that idle does'n drop as usual and stays above 1000 rpm (didn't hapen before). Is there something seriously wrong with the engine? Shold I be looking at rebuilding the engine (it has only 160 000km - 100 000 miles on it. Also, could anyone reccomend some decent and reliable shop or a guy in Vancouver (BC) area that is familiar with Subarus? Iwould really hate to get rid of this car, it has done very good to me so far, so any help voul be appreciated. Thanks.