phil527

I need to do my HGs again at 194K. HC test confirmed what I was assuming this weekend. First time was done at 135K by a shop in the Boston area while on a trip. I wanted to do the HG and clutch myself the following spring, but my hand was forced. They buggered a few things up with the job - mainly a cam cap bolt on the driver side lower cam. The cap at the very front that holds the seal. They must have broke or stripped an bolt and put a bolt and nut through it, the seal has been weeping oil ever since. One option is to pull the engine, get the head milled, do a check of valve shims and put it back together. At 194K is it worth it to do an extensive valve job? The car was running great this past summer. Downside is the wife's car will be out of commission for a few days, more if I need to do more valve work. Also, the unknown about fixing the broken bolt on the cap area. Second option, that I am starting to lean toward, would be to pick up a couple of used heads. They seem to run about 125 each, do a more thorough rebuild then swap the heads over a weekend. The added cost of the used heads would offset the cost of renting a car for my wife (or having to deal with the in-laws for a week:)) Downside would be the unknown condition/history of the used heads. What years will be compatible, I have a 01/98 build date? I have seen some sites refer to casting numbers, where can I find that and what casting numbers should I look for? How much material can be removed from the head surface? Chances are any used heads I get probably have had at least one head job? Thanks for any input.

It has been running marginal for some time now and figured I would start with the simple things. I cleaned the exterior of the condenser, and figured I would pull the evaporator and clean it( I did find a fair amount of leaves and crud in there).While I had the evap core out, I replace the expansion valve and dryer, used all new o-rings when I put it back together. I had the system discharged by a shop this spring when I was in for tires/inspection. I have a vacuum pump, pulled vacuum for an hour, closed valve and verified no leak back over 30 minutes. I am pretty confident the system was tight. Added correct amount of refrigerant. At the time outside temps were around 70 F and the system seemed pretty cold - thought that did the trick. But as the outside temp has been pushing in the 90s it is clear it is still not optimal. I did some more checks last night. I used an IR thermometer to double check my pressure readings and found a few more things out: Ambient air 85F Static pressure car off 100 PSI both low and high (matched temp and pressure tables for 134a) At idle low/high pressure 35/165 at 1500 RPM 27/195 PSI, I checked the compressor outlet line temp and it was 128 F (again right where the T and P tables say it should be for 195 psi). At the upper inlet of the condenser it is 128 F, at the lower outlet it is 100 F . With this running, the ac on recirc and the fan speed on 2 or 3 I get about 56 or 57 degree air coming out. This is only about 30 degrees below ambient. I also noticed that the compressor never cycles off which leads me to believe the cooling output is not up to par. I am now thinking that maybe the compressor is OK but I am not getting enough cooling out of the condenser? What should the temp drop be across the condenser? Is there a way to test the efficiency of this component? I have seen posts describing misting some water on it while it is running to see if the added cooling improves the system operation.

I did check the blend door operation when I had the evap core out. My other thought would be the condenser not working well enough. From other sites I have looked at, the compressor pressures do not seem too far off normal. I am going to pick up an IR thermometer and try to see what the temperature drop across the condenser is. I don't believe it is plugged, otherwise I would have higher output pressures. With and idle output pressure at 175 it puts the gas at 121F, which is only about 30 degrees above ambient. That is not a lot of difference, maybe an dirty (internally) condenser is not cooling the gas enough? It would be a cheaper part to change I guess.

Yes, tag lists 19-23 oz, I put in right around 22 oz when I filled after evac. Added some oil with new accumulator and valve. The 40 was at idle, and compressing up to around 175 about a 4:1 ratio. As soon as I give it a little RPM it goes to 20/200 (10:1 ratio). I don't know if this behavior is normal or if I should be seeing a better compressing ratio at idle. Coincidentally, the poor performance is only at idle. When driving at higher RPM I can get better output, not perfect but better. Also, static pressure of the system, when off and allowed to equilibriate is about 75 psi at an 80-82 degrees ambient temp. I have been hunting around for some normal high/low pressure values for 134a and have not found them yet.

Looking for some advice on diagnosing an AC problem - I believe it is my compressor- but just wanted some added feedback before I spend the bucks on another compressor. 98 OBW, 186K. A/C has always struggled on this car, but being in WNY it is never really taxed that much. This summer has been putting it to the test. I am only getting about 15-20 degrees drop in ambient air temp. Worse cooling at idle, gets better when driving down the road. About a month ago I pulled the evaporator box to make sure it was clean, changed the expansion valve while I had it out( all new orings)- fair amount of leaves and crud in there, new receiver/dryer as well, sprayed down and blew out the evaporator, evacuated, verified it held vacuum and recharged. It ran better for a while (ambient temps were in the 70s when I did this), but now that temps are in the 90s it is obvious it is still not up to snuff. I put the gauges back on and recorded some readings. Ambient air temp was around 85-90. At idle low pressure was 38, high 176. If I run the throttle up to 2500 or so the pressures will go to 20/220. I don't know what the normal low/high pressures should be at idle. I am thinking the 4:1 high to low is not enough at idle - indicating a failing compressor???? System is leak tight, I feel heat all over the condenser at high RPM, it does not seem to get too hot when running at idle though. Does this point to a failing compressor? What should the low/high pressures be when running at idle? Thanks

I would second the spraying of wd-40 or PB blaster in there and the liberal use of spark plug boot grease when installing the new set. When I removed the original wires on my 98/2.5 I had the same problem. I pulled them off with pliers, but apparently the end of the boot is 2 pieces. I am not sure if all OEM wires are like this or not, but when the end part is left behind, you can not get a plug socket past it. I had to spend several hours with a small screwdriver and pick set to work off the remaining part of the boot that was left behind. If I had to do it again I would make sure I gave each plug a thorough soak and try to rotate them a bit first before just yanking.

To clarify "around town" and "highway speed": I changed the coil around labor day and cleared the codes. My wife headed back to Niagara Falls the following weekend - she went the back road route so she would have gotten up to 60-65 top speed in stretches but a little under 3 hrs of driving should have been plenty of time to get good and warm. Doubt the engine RPM got above 3500. Trip there and back no CEL codes, local around town no problems. Recent trip to DC this past weekend, 45-60 minute drive to Binghamton (also 2 lane back roads) no CEL. Get south of Binghamton on 81 set the CC to 75 and a short while later CEL comes on. It came on for a half a minute-minute, started flashing for 10-15 secs then stayed on the rest of the way there and back. When it came on I could not feel anything different in the way it was driving. As far as mileage I got a little under 26 for three tankfulls. This might be skewed down as there was a fair amount of stop and go in Harrisburg and construction north of Scranton. When we got the car I would get a bit over 27 on trips (this is a 5 speed). So I am happy with where the mileage is and how it feels when it runs. Nippers thinking that it is ignition sounded good at first, but after changing the plugs, wires and coil that would seem to be ruled out. Also the fact that is seems to only happen when this engine is spinning above 3500 continuously for a while may point to the sticky valve theory that WAWalker suggested. I think I am heading back to Buffalo this weekend, so I might pull the vac gauge from my truck and find a spot to set it up in the car for the trip. I am due for and oil change so maybe I will do a Seafoam treatment and throw some Marvel oil in with the change. My only other passing thought is oil pressure. I have seen posts about resealing the oil pump during Tbelt work. If that has not been done would I get a reduced oil pressure - maybe not keeping up at the high RPM? I don't get an oil pressure indicator light though.

So sticking valve could be a cause and could make sense as to why I might only be seeing it on cylinder 3. What are your thoughts on usefullness of oil additives to "free sticky valves"? Would a valve lash adjustment also create potential for misfire? I believe it is recommended at around 100K, I have not done it yet. I was figuring I would do it when I needed to do some more major involved work.

Yeah, I realize that is a generic article, but I was just looking for a good explanation as to how the ECU comes up with the code. After the last trip I was keeping a close eye on the CEL and I could not feel any change in engine performance when it came on. That is why I am starting to think it might be a sensor problem thinking there is a misfire instead of actually being one. Maybe I am wrong in thinking I would feel a sputter of hesitation when the misfire occured. The specific code was P0303 the last couple of times and unfortunately I did not write down the preveious ones - I thought my memory would hold:-\. They definitely were misfire codes though, 0304 seems familiar.

I replaced the coil (from NAPA) because I was thinking along the lines that you mentioned. I thought maybe it was getting hot on a long trip and arcing out, also since I had just changed the plugs and wires this seemed like the only thing left. The resistances were all in spec on the old coil. Found this on the web http://www.cleanairforce.info/us/obd_dtc/p0300_engine_misfire_detected.htm They are indicating that the misfire is determined by monitoring the crank and cam speed. The flashing CEL indicating a high misfire rate is something that I have seen. My CEL came on then started flashing for a short bit,then stayed on steady. If this is true, based on the way it was flashing I think I should have felt the enging stumble, which I didn't - so I am thinking it might be a sensor issue. Would a flaky crank or cam sensor give a misfire code? I have not gotten any crank or cam sensor fault codes. Or do these components usually fail completely?

Just to clarify these are Subaru wires, NGK plugs. The wires and plugs have probabley less than 5K on them. The car ran better with the new plugs and wires but the misfire code still came back. Only the coil is aftermarket, I replaced it last minute before I headed out on a trip -but it did not fix the problem. That is why I am thinking it must be something else. Small vacuum leak? Fuel supply? If the fuel rail was running a little low on pressure causing a leaner mixture by starving the injectors- would that give a misfire code? Or is a misfire detected by unburnt fuel in the exhaust? The thing is it only shows up when the engine is spinning above 3500 continuously for an extended period.

No, they are Genuine Subaru wires. The coil pack is not from Subaru but I seem to think it is probably not that. This problem started this past winter, but has been more noticable with all the long trips I've been taking this summer.

Need some help/advice of where to look next for a misfire CEL I've been getting. The background:98 Legacy Outback, 2.5, 122K, Tbelt changed at 65k. Earlier this spring I replaced a number of parts to correct some low mileage and hard starting. I replace the front O2, the CTS, as well the usual fuel and air filters, PCV valve, plugs and wires. That worked great- car runs superb smooth idle good power and great mileage but I still get a misfire CEL whenever I go on long trips. I recently put in a new coil pack, and cleared the code but it came back on a trip this weekend. Here is the interesting thing, the car runs fine and won't throw a code with around town driving or on short (slower speed )trips. Only when cruising at 75-80 on the highway after about 1-1.5 hrs will it come on. When it does you would not even know anything was off - no hesitation or change in how the car is running. So I am thinking now that it probably is not ignition related. Should I start looking at fuel? I unfortunately can't remember which cylinder the misfire code came from earlier in the spring but the last couple came from cylinder 3. Could this be a bad injector? Or maybe low fuel pressure on the fuel rail? I am not sure what the engine computer looks for with a misfire, high HC in the exhaust? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Just changed my plugs last night (98 OBW, 2.5) , the rubber end of the spark plug boot was stuck on the plug insualtor when I pulled the main part of the boot off . What a pain!!! A few hours of poking and prodding with picks bent in all different shapes and I had them out. I did coat the plugs with boot grease when I last changed them (about 60 or 70K ago) but they still stuck. I was wondering if that lower rubber seal is really needed. The top red flange would seem to me to keep most dirt/water out. The connector is recessed into the upper hard part of the boot so it is not exposed. Would just putting on more grease this time do the trick? It was such a pain I really don't want to have to go through it again. I posted a pic in my album. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Going to change the wires tonight so I am trying to decide before then.

I changed my coolant temp sensor before my last trip based on posted advice on this board and got a 3 mpg improvment!! Paid for itself in one trip. '98 2.5 outback, 118K, 27.5 highway mpg, cruising 70-75 with the car loaded with the family and gear. I did not have and specific engine codes or CEL, the only symptoms were a drop in my highway mpg to about 24 for some time, and some hard starting last winter in extremely cold weater (-5 F and below range). It would start fine when the temp came up to the teens. I changed the front O2 earlier this summer, it ran a little better but mileage was still off. All thanks to the wealth of knowledge on this site! Now I just need to change the plugs and wires before the next trip -it was just too hot and humid to do it when I did the CTS.