Tobers

Hi chaps, Here's an update. The car was in the dealer all last week. A top Subaru UK tech came down to see it and made a number of recommendations for fixes, which the dealer then implemented. The thing that fixed it was the replacement of the injectors. Looks like there was a sticky injector (or maybe more than one of them) which was either leaking fuel into the inlet tract, or not squirting the correct amount in at the right times. The car now runs like a dream - starts on the button and is very smooth, idles properly etc. Other things that were done before the injectors were replaced included the crankshaft position sensor being replaced, and the ECU being "zapped" and reprogrammed (neccessited the ignition keys being recoded). Only when the injectors were replaced did the problem go away. Superb service from the dealer. The service manager personally worked on the car and tested it several times a day throughout last week, and kept me personally updated twice a day. I think the strong position I took at the start of the proceedings really made a difference - dont mess with me Mr Dealer! Thanks for all your help everyone! Andy

Wow! Thanks for all the replies folks. Setright - nope, it doesn't sound like that I'm afraid. When starting from "luke-warm" i.e. 30-60 mins after a drive during which it got up to full operating temperature, it cranks for 5-10 secs, then fires on maybe 2, then climbs to 3 then 4 cylinders. It'll then idle at approx 1500rpm before stepping down to approx 900rpm over a period of 3 minutes. 5 secs is a long time for a modern fuel-injected car to crank before firing - more like 1-2 secs is the norm. mwatt - I've tried waiting a while before cranking to allow the fuel pressure to build, but no change to the starting performance when "luke warm". Cougar - they changed the plugs to NGKs - first thing that they tried. mtsmiths - that's just what I did this afternoon. Into the dealer, and sat with the service manager for about 30 mins of very articulate reasoned discussion. He was attempting to suggest it was a "glitch" and that the car did actually start so was fulfilling its purpose. I killed that promptly by saying that, had it been delivered with a big dent in the roof it would still convey people from A to B, but would warrant rejection due to the dent. The starting problem is no different to a dent in my view (and English law's view too). I had also counted the number of Subarus on his forecourt before going in, and used exactly the line you suggested. I asked him if he'd like to go out and start all 19 of them and see which of them had the same problem. Not much leaping from his seat to partake in that one! So, it's back in tomorrow. I haven't rejected it just yet as they have a senior guru from Subaru UK technical dept coming down to look at it. I've told them they've got 1 more chance to fix it. I reckon it's a temperature related thing or pos. the idle control valve - probably a simple fix, but lets see. Will keep you all posted. Cheers!

Gaaahhggg! The problem has returned. I've informed the dealer that I'm going to reject the car. Unfortunately, they are now making suggestions that because the car eventually does start, it is performing its function so is "fit for purpose". Clearly this is nonsense, but I'm now after any Subary specs or technical info which I can use to show what the starting performance of the car should be. I want to kill any objections of their before they get serious. Can anyone help with any such docs? Thanks

Well, it's been in the dealer's workshop all day today. The day started with me delivering the car to them and talking very nicely to the service man. I then gave him a firmly worded letter stating they had to permanently fix it in 7 days or give me a refund/replacement (I was secretly hoping it wouldn't be fixed and I'd get a 2.5 Turbo ). I had really excellent service from the dealer who was very very concerned about it and kept me well informed of progress. They problem appears to be fixed. They reset the engine management system, upped the idle speed 100rpm to 850rpm, cleaned the inlet tract, checked the air filter etc etc. and delivered the car back to me 2 hours ago. Just tried starting it and it sprang into action as you'd expect it to. No more churning and picking up on 2 then 3 then 4 cylinders. I have a feeling that I actually half-fixed the problem myself though. I reckon that the throttle cable loosening trick made a difference, but that the engine management memory needed clearing to "forget" the old incorrect position. Could all be nonsense though. Anyway, on first impressions it looks like its sorted. By the way, it is lovely to drive. Had a Volvo V70 before the Forester and the Forester is like a go-kart by comparison. It handles really well round corners compared to the Volvo's battleship-like wallowing. Cheers all. Andy

Yep - that's the plan. It's more out of curiosity than anything else. Anyway, its back to the dealer tomorrow with a "fix it by next week or give me a refund" ultimatum

Filled it up with a fresh tank. Also found that the throttle cable was a little bit too tight, so loosened it off a tad in order for the throttle actuator arm to rest on the stop properly. I reckoned this could have been causing the car to start as if you had your foot slightly on the accelerator pedal, confusing everything. However, neither has had any effect. When starting from cold, it's still churning on the starter motor for about 8-10 secs before firing, and when it has fired it seems to be running on 3 cylinders for a short time (say 10 secs or until I prod the throttle).

Hmm - thanks for that. I'll put some Shell Optimax or similar into it tonight and see what happens. I've just been up & down the country (UK) so not filled up in the same place twice yet. Any other ideas?

Hi - first post from a new Subaru owner. I've got a brand new Forester 2 litre non-turbo auto. Now 2 weeks old with 1600 miles on it already (nice trip up to Scotland & back). A couple of days ago, when starting from cold, it wouldn't start immediately as it usually does. It cranks over for about 8-10 seconds before firing, and then idles at about 1500rpm. After a quick blip of the throttle and the revs drop back down to idle at a more regular 800rpm or so. It starts immediately when warm - the problem only happens when left for 3-4 hours or more. The dealer has had a look at it. No error codes listed. He's replaced the spark plugs with a different brand (NGK to Champion or vice versa). The problem still persists. I'll be giving the car back to the dealer for 2-3 days for them to look into it in more depth next week, but in the meantime I'm interested in what this might be and if I can tweak something quickly to sort it out. My first reaction is that it's an idle control valve that's stuck a bit open, and is released when the throttle is pressed. Any help gratefully received. Cheers Andy