mtmra70

raulcruz01 and mtsmiths, would you be able to take some pictures of your setups? I found some u-bolts, but they are a little big and may cause me some problems.

The traps are $20 each, MUCH cheaper then any other roof solution. The roof rack bars seem pretty sturdy and seem like they could hold any twisting the bikes may cause. The holes in the bars are a noted concern. I had thought about using small holes and some toggle bolts (toggle on the bottom side so the hold could be small), but the plate/u-bolt suggestion is an idea. Think I will run to the hardware store and see what I can find. The kid kept me busy yesterday so I didnt have a chance to dink around with it.

Sorry!!!! Had 50 things going on at once when I typed this Here is the link http://www.autostyles.com/bike64700.jpg As a side note, I had two of those mounted to my truck bed liner and it worked really well. Just wanted some input on bolting it to the roof rack.

Ok, so I want to carry my bike (or two) but dont want to pay the money for a bike carrier. So....I was thinking, what if I mounted one of the standard bike mounts (see below link) on the cross beam roof rack? I was thinking about just drilling a couple holes and putting some washers/bolts through everything. The specs are ~100lbs for the roof rack, and a bike is surley less then that with little drag. Thoughts???

Thanks guys!

I woke up this morning and started on my merry way to work. I noticed that the car was a tad squirly at times, but it was windy and the roads looked icy so I figured it was that. I got to work and did my thing. I came out a few hours later and saw I had a flat. Took the tire to Sams Club and they said they couldnt find a leak or hazzard, but handed me a handful of rubber from inside the tire. They said it had been driven on too long. I called Firestone and scheduled a tire replacement and called the dealer about a single tire replacement. Firestone registered only a 1/32 to 2/32 difference between all the tires and I belive this equates to 1/4" diameter (or less), which falls within what the dealer said I am allowed for variance. Does anyone think there was any harm to the AWD/diffs on supposedly driving to work on a flat (about 10 miles)? Think my new single tire is ok? I only have 10,000 miles on the other 3.

Thanks guys!

Its from Discount tire, thats the installed price and same model and size (Poneza E92 225/60/R16), but now that I look again, there is a E92A that is an OEM. Might call back. As for Sams, I guess its worth a trip to the store...the website didnt have the tire.

My wife put a nice gash in our side wall (dont ask). I really need to get a new tire, its probably not safe to drive on it. Is it ok to get one new tire? Its a new '05 Outback with around 2300 miles on it. Also, I was quoted $130 OTD, is that about right for the OEM tires?

$10 says that guy doesnt die from being hit by someone "not seeing him". I just sold my bike, but for the 5 years I rode, during the day I always had my highbeams on.

I thought I read that it was the gas and break, but I guess you are right and it is just the gas.

it cant be from the pedal to the master cylinder because when I had the car off, I pumped them and they got really hard like in normal cars. Unless they are doing that mechanically some how:confused:

Bank approved my loan and picked up my Outback a few hours ago!!! Not a bad ride and not a bad deal, $4,000 under MSRP. This board was very helpful with answering my questions, this will be my new home!! Here was my original thread, I know some of you wanted to know if I got it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41695 Couple quick questions: 1) The breaks and gas are fully "drive by wire"? I read this, but the brakes still have that weird pump feeling. Is it "by wire" after the master cylinder?? 2) Does shifting the car like a manual put any undue stress on the tranny? I see it downshifts as you slow down, does upshifting too soon cause any problems? Anything else I should know? I tried to use the search as much as possible.

first app denied because I only listed myself, didnt include the wife(not enough income on just my job). Trying a second time....

Still waiting on the bank:-\

Outback:brow:

Applied for loan, put down a deposit....dealer prepping car....lets home the bank approves!

Got a call back from dealer, $12,000 is what they can offer me for trade-in. And I get the car with about 200 miles and get all incentives. Man, really wanted $13,000 for it. Need some major convising here, is it REALLY worth taking the hit?

I used to drive a 86 GMC S-15 fully UNloaded, couldnt have a worse of a vehicle and I managed just fine with it.

$26,000-$4000 cashback, etc = $22,000 + tax/title, etc = $24,000

Swung back by the dealer. He has another Outback(new 2005) with 2500 miles on it that he put on the vehicle driving around town. He also asked me what it would take to get the trade in. We want 13500 for it, and he said he may be able to bump up their 11500 offer by 500 bucks....Im going for 13000 even, thats the bare minimum we can take. That would pretty much put us at 24000 OTD

Thank you mwatt! I like hearing both sides of the table. The good think about the Impalas right now is there are so many and they are cheaper then most other vehicles. Bad thing about the Subaru is it is much more and we just dont know if we can afford it. Plus side is the 2005 Subaru is cheaper for insurance then a 2004 Impala. Decisions decisions decisions....

That you will buy my truck for $15,000!!!! Ugh, I really want to get it, but I am going to have a dickens of a time selling my truck. I only hope the upcoming winter will get people into the truck mood.

True, but in my case, I cant get a good product unless I get a good price on my current vehicle. Posted my truck on auto trader....hopefully someone bites so I can get a good price and get the Outback

Thank you for bringing up this concern!! How burried is the belt? I know some vehicles you have to tear apart the whole engine to get to the belt...lol