abeauch

Thanks for the quick reply! I need to get this done before next weekend.

I'm trying to repair a headlight on my 98 outback. I need the plastic ball sockets that support the adjustment screws. I searched the forum and found a post pertaining to this but there is no part number or mention of where they were purchased. Has anyone ever replaced this part and have any info about them? Thanks.

I just had the same thing happen. I had a torn cv boot on the left front wheel and was anticipating a replacement soon. My son comes home from school and says the car is making a strange noise and the steering wheel is shaking. So I take the car for a ride and see what he is talking about. I figured the cv joint finally quit. So I start the job and find 4/5 lug nuts loose! Only one still hanging on. I have never had a nut loosen on a wheel. I had recently pulled that wheel to do some brake work so I figured I was at fault. I don't usually torque my lug nuts but crank on them. Since this happenned I have replaced the cv axle, rotor and pads. I did torque the lug nuts this time to 75 ft lbs. I will be checking them again soon!

What about the block? I have the same grooves on the mating surfaces on the block?

I am doing a head gasket job on an 98 outback 2.5l, I am concerned about the grooves left by the old gaskets on the cylinder head surface. They are also on the block Is it necessary to get them ground by a machine shop? I checked for warpage with a .002 feeler gauge and straight edge and they do not appear to be warped. Thanks

Can someone reccomend the correct kit for this car? Do the kits on Ebay come with the double bearing smooth idlers, at least one of the two? Thanks

I have a 98 Outback 2.5l dohc engine in the middle of a timing belt installation problem. I bought a timing belt kit from a local parts store that contained belt, two idlers, and tensior pulley. One of the idler pulleys off my engine is the double bearing idler. The kit contains only single bearing idlers. I also found I have the older style tensioner in my vehicle. I called the dealer and my vin states I should have the newer style tensioner. He's telling me that at some point the engine must have been replaced? The big question is will it hurt to use the single bearing idler? Could I use the old idler. It seems to be in good condition. Still rolls smooth. I have 190,000 on the car, not really sure what the engine really has for mileage. Thanks

I have a 98 outback 2.5l auto trans. with 190k that started overheating and blowing coolant out of the resevoir. I do not believe I did any damage to the heads because the engine still runs great. Lots of bubbles evident in coolant resevoir so I am positive it is time for head gaskets. I also need to do the timing belt and seals. I have the chance to buy a 2.2l engine with 72k on it for $425 but it doesn't have the egr but I was told I could use my egr components and adapt them to the 2.2. My dilemma; is it better to make the repairs using my own labor or doing the engine swap? I am thinking in terms of cost and time. Thanks

Looking at a 2000 outback, anyone have a carfax account willing to check it for me? Heres the vin 4s3bh6656y7657539, Thanks

That first mark is 500 rpm, if your at the second or third mark your idling at 600-700 rpm. Not far from factory spec. I wouldn't mess with the idle except for maybe cleaning your IAC.

My 98 OBW tach does not have the ability to read below 500 rpm. It starts at zero and the first line is 500 rpm. I used to think I had a low idle until a big bright light came on in my brain and said Duh! Can youo read that low on your tach?

1998 OBW 169,660 No major issues. Original head gaskets, timing belts.

If you dont mind I'd like one please. Thanks! 4S3BG6858W7606587

I have the same problem with mine. The dipstick appears to be frozen in place. I have the 98 OBW. I've tried everything to get it out except a torch. My biggest problem is I was able to pull it out but a metal sleeve came out with it. I'm looking for suggestions as well. Is it possible this thing is threaded? The one on my 92 legacy pulled right out.

Help

I went to check the fluid level in my OBW and when I went to pull the dipstick it was stuck. Got a screw driver on it to pry upwards and it came out but a metal sleeve came out with it. I've tried penetrating oil, and other methods but no luck, I can not seperate the dipstick from the metal sleeve. I'll probably have to apply heat. My question is I'll probably destroy the dip stick, can I assume that most subaru models will have the same dipstick? I will be looking in the local salvage yard. Anyone ever have this problem? Thanks

I need to clarify the noise. It sounds more like a metal click when put into drive, I'll hear it also when the trans shifts down to second or first. My 98 OBW with 166000 miles has started making a slight clunk when put into drive. No other syptoms with the trans. Shifts smooth. Could this be a cv joint, brakes? Thanks

I vote for removing the plugs from under the car. Be sure to apply some electrical grease to the new boot. One of the spark plug wire boots broke off on a sparkplug. It was quite a challenge to remove the broken piece of rubber!

Is it possible to repair a 4-5 inch crack in my windshield or am I looking at a new one. Thanks

Are you reading your rpm with an external tach? I can't read below 500 rpm om my tach. Its starts at zero but goes right to 500. I thought I had a low idle, it was actually right at 700 rpm where it was supposed to be.

This discussion has progressed quite alot. I just want to lube the orings so they dont dry out. New question: does the compressor have its own oil resevoir or is it recommended to add refrigerant that contains oil? If so what is recommended for the Subarus.

I recently located my ac leak with using green dye and a uv light. My leak is at the exit seal of the condensor. There was no pressure in the system so I went ahead and removed the line between the drier and condensor. I need to replace the orings and was wondering where I can get them and are they a specific type of oring compound? Thanks.

I wanted to thank cheetah8799 for the great low idle fix on my 98 OB. He explained to me that there was never a low idle problem! The tach needle rest at zero, the first line is then 500 rpm and increases by 100 rpm up to the next solid line which is 1000 rpm. My rpm's have been sitting at 700 all along. I thought it was 400! I am almost embarrassed at my mistake but I'll bet there is someone else out there who may have seen it this way as well. Thanks again cheetah8799!

My 98 OB has two clips on one end and tabs on the other. A bit difficult to remove and worse to install. Remove hoses and its a little easier but still a pain in the neck!

I have a dealer installed keyless entry module in my 98 OB. Its mounted with plastic ties near the fuse panel under the dash. On mine I have to press a button that is located at the top of the black box, turn the key to on and wait for the locks to cycle three times. I can also reprogram my FOB this way.