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Awesome! You guys rule, thanks!!!! Oh, how is this not "illegal" though. I thought they had to be visible from the side... do the rears count? Anyways, thanks again, I'm going to go put the dash back together.

Ok, Now I may have over reacted... I realized that the lower directionals DO work on the front. But, are the side orange lights supposed to flash with directionals or only light up for parking lights? They do light up for parking. Thanks!

Ok, so my good ole loyale with no heat is about to go back into service for the winter.. well, decided it was time to fix the heat. I replaced the heater core and thats all good now, but in the process, I have lost my front directionals. I know that it has to be a disconnect or crossed connector as I unplugged everything to remove the dash. My rear directionals and hazards work, the front marker lights work, and the arrows in the dash work, but I get no front directionals or hazards. The rear lights arn't crazy fast so I figure they must have seperate systems some how or a non bi-metalic strip type flasher. So, is there any thoughts on where to look? I have 1 white 3 wire connector, one brown 2 wire connector and one larger white like maybe 5 wire connector that don't have homes. I was assuming they were for like cruise and stuff. Thanks!!!

Dang, I say you start your own tow business and rake in that dough!

Good! I figure I will, so I hope your right.

Oh, ya, I didn't litterally mean weld them together, I was making a generalization like it was a solid shaft... I hadn't thought about the differential, but thats obvious now. I have no desire to make it full time.. I was just curious. I'm assuming that these bad boys are really only going to drive one rear and one front wheel if it gets stuck right? Or does it have a limited slip of some sort?

Nice, I like that! Its a good car. After I'm done with it my dad is allready trying to get me to give it to him. Something really nice about a wagon with 4wd... i'm used to a 2 door convertible with NO trunk space and limited passenger space either. Oh, also, I know that 4wd typically has problems on tar due to the turning and fighting between front and rear, but whats the difference between the all time 4wd and my selectable 4wd? Just removes the actuator and welds it shut? This makes it sturdier or something?

Ya, ok, thats basically what I thought on all accounts. I don't need the dual range tranny... not worth the work for certain.. this is just a winter car for me. I hate snow, and I drive a convertible during the summer so I picked this up as a nice alternative to beating my good car. By the way.. I live in Bangor, ME for whoever asked. Thanks guys!

Ok, so I have searched on here and can't seem to find the answer to these questions. Will bad things happen if I accidentally press that 4wd button on my shifter while I'm doing say 30 or 50? Is there a saftey and at what speed does it kick in? Can I drive on tar with it in 4wd or is that hard on it like it is with trucks and stuff? And, I see that my car has a light for LOW in the middle of the car on the gauges but yet I have no method for placing it in "low." Is this an option not included in my year or model... or something?

hehe, you could do what I did... go to the parts store and pick up some of those rubber spring stiffeners and jamb them into the spings... picked me up like 2.5 to 3 inches all the way around. But, be more careful on those corners!

Ok, so I think I have some progress on the ole heat issue. I flushed the engine and the core and didn't seem to gain anything there, checked all the ducts and they were clean with exception of a few pine needles. Finally I decided to swap the heater core lines in attempt to see if the opposite flow would clean it out some or something... come to find out they were swapped in the first place... which surprised me cause the hoses fit so well and were hard to swap around. But with them correct it blows much hotter. Still not as hot as I would have imagined but better at least. It was still low on fluids I think so maybe that will help. Thanks guys!

my tensioner froze right up and ripped a good half of the teeth off a brand new belt. I think that it put so much resistance towards motion that teeth started getting tired quick and finally they just failed. It has to be one of the pullys touching the belt is either turning too hard and or has bad bearings. I suppose that plastic touching the belt could wear it away farily quickly as well... or maybe you got a defective belt.

Definitely sounds like a tensioner... thats what mine did about a month ago. I would make certain that you had that pully replaced, and that it was the right one/ it was in good shape. Otherwise you have something creating un-do stress on your belt maybe.

OK! I'm glad I asked... no winch for me then.

out of curiousity, how much strength does the stock bumper have on a 93 vintage loyale? I thought about mounting one to the bumper just for assisting if I got stuck in snow. Nothing like holding the entire car's weight or anything.

Well my purge solinoid is broken visibly... the nipple was snapped off and somebody glued it back on. I figured out why when I called the parts stores... you can't find em and to order it was alot. Would anybody have a junker that I could buy one off of? I'm going to check junk yards later today.

ok, so I have ac, so that would have stopped the mouse before the heater core so if air is comming out of my vents then it has to have traveled through the heater core right? Any expirience with thermostats? I replaced the thing in mine and when I did they didn't look the same, but the parts store only had one listing, and subaru said that they would have bought one from the parts store I picked it up from.... they could order me one for 16 bucks, so I figured it wasn't worth it if they normally just use one from carquest. Mine had two stages... the book said something about two stages for aluminum radiators... I have an aluminum radiator, but who doesnt... I don't know any radiators that are not aluminum... maybe copper ends or pipes or something....???

ok, the greens were definitely connected... and I found two single wire whites stuck in different places under stuff there that were not connected. Should I disconnect the greens? From what I understood of timing... the greens would bypass the computer controlled timing correction which would cause really crappy acceleration I would imagine... I just plugged those two whites together and unplugged the greens and turned the key on and it flashed 35 at me which is purge control solenoid valve. But I drove it into the garage with the greens and whites disconnected and the check engine light was on immediately instead of usually it takes 3 or 4 minutes of driving to come on... I am really confused by if the greens should be hooked up normal or what. Thanks

wait a minute... so there should be 2 greens and 2 whites under the hood that are disconnected at all times? I think I had some connected or something when I got it... I'll have to check.

Yes, it is a 93 Loyale. I looked under the hood and found a green connector that had 1 wire which I thought was supposed to have 2. I don't remember a white connector, and I don't remember being anything to connect them to either. Under the dash there is a brown 2 wire, and I think a white 2 wire plugged to another white 2 wire... the book says that I'm supposed to unplug those 2 white ones or something?? I can't remember well cause that was like a month ago now. The car is an early 93, think it was made end of 92, its a 5 spd selectable 4wd wagon. 160K on it. I have contemplated that tps, but don't want to go changing anything off till I can find the code... part swapping for trouble shooting gets expensive quick... somthing I don't want to get into on this winter car. THanks!

Ok, so since I got the car the check engine light has been on. I tried the method in my haynes manual to read codes, I have read that entire huge thread that somebody on here pointed me to last time I asked about this, and tried what it said, but I cannot for the life of me get it to spit out any codes. I figure I must be doing something wrong, so is there anybody with a 93 wagon 4wd 5 spd that might be able to tell me something that I'm missing? It almost seems like it allready has the testing wires plugged in cause it flashes the code for car type as soon as I turn the key to on. Also I am having trouble with power, it has a spot on the pedal at the beginning of acceleration up for each gear where it acts like it is all choked out or something, and when I let off it will go. Immediately your all going to say timing although I have checked this and it is dead on, but I don't know how to disable any computer related timing things, and was wondering if perhaps it was stuck in diag. mode and the car wasn't adjusting timing for me causing it to be a dog. Thanks

Me too!! Thanks guys, make that 4 for 4!!!

well I'm 99% sure its just flappers. I adjusted the flapper just after I got the car cause I thought that might be it, but thats adjusted properly. I have backflushed the heater core. Any ideas on the different options for thermostats? Besides... unless there is flow through the core, the lines wouldn't heat much at all... convection would take a while to heat the lines up to the temperature they are at.

well I have heard of people emptying a huge can of lysol into the intake of the hvac system... I probably would do something like that for the smell, but thats besides the point right now... The car still doesn't heat up the engine enough I don't think.. the manual speaks of 2 different thermostats... one for cars with an aluminum radiator and the other for who knows what other type...manual doesn't specify... I thought all radiators were aluminum, so I don't know what its talking about... when I replaced the thermostat it looked severely different... The old one had two stages with two springs.. the new one only had one stage and one spring. I'm going to call subaru tomorow cause I have had enough! I may try the shop vac thing though, thanks!

Seems to have plenty of air flowing through. Speed one doesn't seem to work, but I figure a resistor network is burned or something. How would I go about looking for the nest... I do smell the scent of animal comming from the ducts...