monkeyhawk71

The WRX's come with new engines don't they? Blasphemous, considering I work at a Chevy shop. I do have limited mechanical abilities of my own, but I can borrow a vac gauge for the weekend. The injectors are super easy to get out. Someone on here awhile back suggested my 3&4 missfire records may be a result of resurfacing my flywheel. They started coming on almost immediately after we did the clutch here. He said the flywheel may spin too fast on a decel, throwing off the crank sensor readings. Nothing sounds too far fetched to me anymore with OBD2 stuff.

I haven't noticed anything unusual about the idle other than the fact that if I rev it at idle, it seems to hang awhile before dropping down. What say ye?

I haven't noticed any temp gauge fluctuation at all. I get whiffs of coolant after I get out and can smell the exhaust in the overflow. In 3000 miles it just emptied the overflow, radiator level was fine. My engine light is a constant companion, I figure it records the misses on decels because that's when the light flashes. As soon as I tip into the throttle, the lamp steadies. I've replaced the ignition coil, plugs, and wires, still the same. Thanks for the input.

I was sure I'd get at least 200k out of my 98 Forester. I've had missfire codes on 3 & 4 since I lightened the flywheel, figured that's what it was from, I never feel any missfires and they only set when coasting. I took it in to our local dealer for routine timing belt replacement, they called and told me that I had missfires recorded on all 4 cylinders and a cat low effeciency code was current. I could get them both done at emplyee rate for around 1200$, including the timing belt stuff. I just don't see putting that money into a 194k engine. I told them not to do anything. Ive had it back for a few weeks and have scanned it a few times. The only thing that comes up is the same old 3 & 4 miss. No cat codes. I don't think it can even run the cat test as long as missfire dtc's are set. There's something going on though because I have higher hydrocarbon levels in my coolant overflow bottle than a model t has at the tailpipe. Any idears out there? Do both head gaskets sound logical or is there a common quirk nobody is sharing with me? Thanks

Anybody have any experience with putting larger tires on a 98 era Forester? I want to gain some clearance without wrecking my t-case or something.

Yep, they resurfaced it. I oredered a new one today. Nobody at Subaru, service or parts, has ever heard of this. I did some research after you brought it up and I now know I'm not alone. I should start a support group or something. I'm just happy to finally be driving it after 4 years of making payments on it. It's been my wife's driver and she never really liked it. We just got her a new Suzuki Forenza (sorry but it's the most car for the money) and now the Forester is mine.....all mine!! My 72 Datsun 510 isn't too fun on the Oregon roads on dark winter nights, so it gets to hibernate now.

I'm a service writer at a Chevy dealer and bought everything myself so I know that's ok. But, I think I could get them to do a parts warranty on the flywheel. It makes sense. Your advice might just save my sanity. Thanks again. sb

When we had my transmission out for a leak, we replaced everything with oem from the dealer. Could the flywheel just be out of balance?

Why, as a matter of fact, it was. Not long before this all started, I just never imagined they'd be related. Please elaborate. Thanks.

Nothing non-stock except a Bazooka 8", usually talk radio (like that needs bass), but it only takes a second to unhook it, so I'll try it. Thanks.

I'm at the end of my wits with a consistent missfire code on 3 & 4 on a 98 Forester. I have done plugs and wires, coil, top engine clean, injector clean. When the light flashes, then sets, I feel nothing, no missfire at all. It's usually on a fwy offramp or down a slight grade, not really into the throttle. The local dealer didn't give me a feeling of confidence after it sat there 3 days, pretty much went over what I had already done. They suggested a valve problem and want to pull the head and go from there, but are not willing to stand behing their guess. If they're wrong, I still pay. Am I missing something or are they on the right path? I surely appreciate any advise.