chrisw

We currently own a 2000 Forester which again has failed head gaskets at about 175K (the first time was due to the well known head gasket issue at about 107K, but this time the cause is likely for a different reason (don't want to go into the details). There are several approaches we can take: 1) Another head gasket job if the overheating didn't damage the engine (we will no more after the heads have been removed and the engine inspected ... please assume there is no major damage); 2) Buy a short block from Subaru and have it installed; 3) Sell the car as is and replace it with another Subaru (not certain what model or year) 4) Replace the car with another make Even with the problems we have had (this car has had it share of issues), we like Subarus in general and would consider purchasing another one (this is the second we have owned). Part of the reason we would consider fixing this one or purchasing another is our mechanic. He is an independent Subaru mechanic who does excellent work at very reasonable rates (some of his customers drive considerable distances just so he can maintain their cars). I've been short on details, but are there any opinions regarding the best approach? Is there a particular Subaru model/year you could recommend that would cost less than about 7K (our Forester is the least used car in our family, probably about 6,000 miles/year)? I'm still concerned about the head gasket problem, but I understand Subaru's latest gasket design has proved superior to the predecessors (but time will tell). I've also heard Subaru's six cylinder engine is much more reliable than their four cylinder (we have the 2.5L engine).

Thank you to everyone who responded. I was not clear on the number of miles. This Forester has over 106K. It was due at 105K, so I need to get this done soon. grossgary, I could not find an OEM timng belt kit on eBay, as I prefer to stick with OEM parts. Have you had success with non-OEM parts? Ed, I'll call you soon. I'll provide a summary on this thread of what I did to replace the belt once the task is finished (hopefully it will be helpful for the next person).

Thanks for the reply ... We will probably keep the car another 100K. My tendency is to replace all related parts ... sounds like it is the correct approach in this case.

I have a 2000 Forester with an EJ25 and am preparing to replace the timing belt. I have seen postings applicable to this task (it appears to be a straight forward task) and have the shop manual on CD, but have a few additional questions: 1) What is the best way to bet Subaru parts at a discount? I live in Seattle ... 2) Is it a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time? The one currently on the car has never been replaced (not certain how long they typically last with this vehicle). 3) How about the tensioner. I believe it is hydraulic. Would it be prudent to replace it? 4) Do I need to be concerned regarding sprocket wear? While I have the front of the engine opened up, I do intend to replace the seals. Thanks, Chris

Some work was done on my 92 Legacy wagon at the beginning of summer that involved disconnecting the temperature control cable from the heater unit. The cable clamp evidently was not installed correctly, as the cable has come loose. I do have a Haynes manual, but illustration 10.4 doesn't show much detail. The clamp that I have looks very similar to the "Cable clamp" (part #35) in illustration 10.9 of the Haynes manual. I don't believe the attachment point on the heater housing has broken or that the wrong clamp was used (but both are possibilities). Perhaps there is an additional part involved ... I normally can figure this stuff out, but not this time (at least not yet). Can someone provide an explanation on how to do this, or perhaps point me to a better illustration. Thanks ...

Well, I need to replace the head gaskets on a 92 Legacy wagon. I've replaced head gaskets before, but never on a Legacy. I have both the Haynes and Chilton's manuals, so hopefully I'll be able to figure out the particulars. The car has about 185K on it and runs well without burning much oil. The car hasn't had the 180K checkup yet, so I can do that when I replace the head gaskets. Are there any problems I might encounter that are not well covered by the manuals? I intend to have the heads checked by a machine shop to make sure there are no cracks or warping. Should a valve job be done at the same time? A few years ago, one of the lifters was making an occasional tapping sound. It seems to have stopped, but I would like to make sure it doesn't happen again. Is it worth the savings for me to disassemble the head, or should I just let the machine shop do that while they check it out? Any ideas or thoughts on this would be appreciated. If anyone has put together some information on how to best go about doing this, I'd appreciate a link. I'll write up my experience and post it after completing the job... Regards, Chris

Josh, It is not leaking on the ground. It can be seen on the differential dip stick. The total fluid level in the differential has increased, as the transmission fluid is being forced into it.

I'd like to get some opinions and information regarding a problem I'm having with my Legacy's transmission. Automatic transmission fluid has been leaking into the front differential. I did miss a transmission fluid changed, which I was told could have contributed to the problem (as old transmission fluid tends to eat away at the seals). So, my mechanic suggested that we first try to reseal the front differential, which I decided to have him do. This didn't stop the problem, as transmission fluid continued to leak into the differential. This was repeated one month later under warranty, with the same results. He now thinks there might be a crack in the transmission housing that is causing the problem and thinks the installation of a remanufactured transmission is the best solution. Does anybody have any ideas or opinions as to what could be causing this problem? Is installing a Subaru remanufactured transmission the best solution? The problem began immediately after I had both C/V axles replaced (by another mechanic at another shop). I suspect it is just a coincidence. Thanks in advance ....