rocksnap
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Posts posted by rocksnap
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Sounds like it could be the AMM and/or the ECU engine temp sensor. When cold these cars run primarily off the AMM. As they warm up the transition to O-2 sensors.
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I have a 2001 Outback 3.0 with the H-6 EZ30 engine. At about 81,000 miles the engine developed a tic most noticed primarily in the 3000 rpm range. This was diagnosed as the Cam Chain Tensioner by myself and the dealer. Luckily this car was under a short 30 day NY state used car warrantee. The selling dealer was responsible for the repair.
For a tensioner this was no easy repair. A 1 - 1 1/2 day job with a half page list of part and something like 102 bolts to remove. All was no charge to me but you can imagine this would have easily cost $1000 - $1500 for parts and labor.
I have replaced the chain tensioner on a 85' Saab 900. The origional design only applied tension via hydraulic (oil) pressure. The later design has a one way ratchet mechanism that was also hydraulic but with the ratchet would allow only extension. If/when the hydraulic seal was lost the tensioner would stay extended. The time to swap the tensioners? 15 minutes with a simple socket and ratchet.
Also on the H6 engine. The water pump is apparently buried in the engine requiring an extensive tear down to replace (according to the dealer). I am not looking forward to that repair and am hoping for the water pump to last the life of the engine. Wish me luck!
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I have a 2001 Outback LL Bean H-6 which I just bought used at 81,000 miles. A few days after purchase the cam chain tensioner WAS making the noise. Thankfully, the dealer did repair it under my 1 month, 1 thousand mile warrantee all at no charge! At least a 1 1/2 day job the dealer tells me. There was a long parts list involved though I don't know what it would cost. I told them to replace the water pump as preventive maintenance as long as all was apart since I figured it would be small potato's labor wise to do so. Well, they didn't replace it. I was told there was much more involved for the water pump. Much more engine disasembly involved if not engine removial! Tell me it isn't so. I pray I don't EVER have to replace the water pump.
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Follow up to my cam chain tensioner noise a few posts back. I have a 2001 Outback LL Bean H-6 which I just bought used at 81,000 miles. A few days after purchase the tensioner WAS making the noise. Thankfully, the dealer did repair it under my 1 month, 1 thousand mile warrantee all at no charge! There was a long parts list involved though I don't know what it would cost. I told them to replace the water pump as preventive maintenance since I figured it would be small potato's labor wise to do so. Well, they didn't replace it. I was told there was much more involved for the water pump. Much more engine disasembly involved if not engine removial! Tell me it isn't so. I pray I don't EVER have to replace the water pump.
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I have on 01' LL Bean with the 3.0 H-6, 81,000 miles on it. This is my first Subi. I bought it from a dealer 2 hours away with a 30 day/1000 mile "Lemon Law" warrantee. Well, I only drove it a couple days when it started to develop some engine noise at 2100 +- 200 RPM. Initial diagnosis from an independant 16 year Subaru mechanic is one of the two cam chain tensioners (one for each side/cylinder bank). I have it at a local Subaru dealer for additional diagnosis. If this is correct I hope the selling dealer will let the local dealer do the work. I am told it is no small job. Much of the front of the engine has to be disassembled to reach the chain tensioner. I am hoping this is an isolated problem. The H-6 hasn't been around long enough to have a track record/history. Wish me luck.
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I have on 01' LL Bean with the 3.0 H-6, 81,000 miles on it. This is my first Subi. I bought it from a dealer 2 hours away with a 30 day/1000 mile "Lemon Law" warrantee. Well, I only drove it a couple days when it started to develop some engine noise at 2100 +- 200 RPM. Initial diagnosis from an independant 16 year Subaru mechanic is one of the two cam chain tensioners (one for each side/cylinder bank). I have it at a local Subaru dealer for additional diagnosis. If this is correct I hope the selling dealer will let the local dealer do the work. I am told it is no small job. Much of the front of the engine has to be disassembled to reach the chain tensioner. I am hoping this is an isolated problem. The H-6 hasn't been around long enough to have a track record/history. Wish me luck.
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New Subi owner here with an 01 OBW H-6. I am going to replace my AT fluid with Red Line Synethic along with the diff's. Is there a need to bring it to a tranny shop to adjust the bands while the AT pan is off or should I just go ahead with the fluid change which I can do myself? I have combed the threads here and did not find any mention of getting a AT tuned up beyond a fluid change and/or filter swap.
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You can not go wrong changing to a synethic in any of the lubricated internal parts engine, tranny, dif's etc. I did a partial AT fluid swap on a SUV which wsa about 1/2 the fluid it held. Before the swap the center console would get warm enough to melt a choclate bar. After the swap, no more melting! Why did this happen? Less friction along with better heat shedding capabilitles!
I just bought an 01' OBW and will be swapping out the tranny (Dextron III), front/rear dif's (75W90) with Redline Oil, a full synethic which I have been using for years with awesome results. I will also be swapping the engine oil with Castrol full synethic which I get CHEAPEST at any BMW dealer for $4.50 a quart. It was $4.00 a quart until a short time ago. I will also swap out the tranny spin on filter which can be bought at the dealer or online a several Subi parts sites.
My only question is do I have a tranny shop drop the pan to see if any band adjustments need to be made. Otherwise it is a pretty streight forward job that I can easily do myself. Any help with that question?
For a AT filter see subaruwrxparts.com Filter is $25 there
H-6 3.0 EZ30 engine tic -- FYI
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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no preventive maintenance to speak of as far as replacing the tensioner. i would think the only thing related to this you could do is oil changes but even that may not be any good. once it fails..............