Chiefzon

Hey Subes, I have a 1990 Legacy that was in a crash , and hope the car is still drivable, but I'm wondering if the car is safe to do so. It suffered an impact in the front passenger side door from the fender, which pushed in the door hinge about 6 inches in from where it normally is. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the tire, wheel or CV. The impact car pushed in the bottom of the Sub door above the running board exposing it, and pushing out the window (which didn't break) out 5 inches from the door frame. The steering wheel is now cocked about 5 degrees to the left but doesn't really pull at all. I plan on going to get it checked out at a shop to get someones opinion, but want to put it to the USMB. Any tests I can do or advice out there? Thanks.

Yeah, I know. I've got a good sense of humor. I'll try and see what I can find on bad compressors...and send it to his room!!! Thanks. May ping USMB again in a few days to report what I've found. Cheers.

OK. I'm in my room. Now what? Yeah, I had a weird feeling about jumpering it 12 months ago, but I learned about it....here on USMB. Lesson learned. The noise sounds like a fan. It came on all at once when the A/C was in full effect and now its does it right when the A/C is turned on. On the bright side, it's probably only run noise for a total of 30 sec. So maybe there's hope? Is there a good guide or Thread on diagnosing how extensive the damage is, or should I take it in to the shop? Thanks.

Hey All, I had a non functional A/C unit about 12 months ago and fixed it with a 'jumper' wire that bypassed the themostat that turned off the A/C. The fix worked, never got super cold, but it was functional. Now my A/C compressor is making a ton of noise every time I turn on the air conditioning, like there's a card in the fan... My questions are: 1: Is the jumper/non functioning thermostat to blame here? 2: Can the compressor be fixed without replacement? I read Grossgary's vacuum fix post which may be an answer, but not sure. Thanks!

Thanks for you replies. Is my Sub equipted to run power brakes, or will in need an extensive conversion? I'd rather have trailer brakes, believe me.

I'm looking for some advice on towing. I want to put a small utility trailer behind a 1990 Subaru Legacy. I just got new brakes 2 months ago but use my 5-speed stick to regulate speed to minimize break use. My driver's manual said not to exceed 1000 lbs. w/o trailer brakes. So here are my questions: 1) Is towing a half ton for 400 miles going to put significant stress on my transmission? (Minimal elevation gain on two mountain passes). Assuming the car is also loaded? 2) Will a Hidden Hitch hitch - 1 1/4 inch receiver tube opening be adequate for the job or do I need something more substatial? 3) Is it substanitally safer to just get a trailer with brakes? Thanks! Chiefzon

After replacing my heater core, the same rapid cooling heat was happening to me. When cool, take off the radiator cap, start the engine, and squeeze the hose that runs from the radiator back to the engine. If you have a bubble, you'll hear a gurgle sound, after 5-10 good squeezes, the gurgle should stop and the engine will be without the bubbles that block up the system.

Got a 90 legacy 2.2 wagon that doesn't produce cold air anymore. When I hit the A/C button, the RPMs drop a bit and it appears a fan is switched on in the engine. The car is pretty old, so I assume I've just run out of juice. I'd like to recharge it myself if possible. Monterey is beautiful, but an expensive car fix zone, what ever your problems. Is there a kit or recharge that's doable in a short time? Maybe a past link I can read? Thanks.

Perfect solution. Thanks!

I replaced my CV Shafts yesterday, seemed like no problems. Put on brand new shafts. Now there's a med-high pitch grinding sound coming off the driver's side. Sounds like something draging accross the disk brake. constant even when coasting in neutral. I also heard a lower pitch squeek coming from the passenger/center of the vehicle. 1: What are these? 2: What can I do to fix them? Thanks!

Could it be a bad climate control console? It still works fine, its just really annoying, but at least the heat works again. It doesn't sound good for the engine either.

Yeah, its the same 90 legacy. It may be the a/c engaging but it happens when its on every setting and temp. I haven't used the A/C for years. I'm sure the freon is totally depleated, Its a Summer 06 project. How could I check it?

My heat/cooling console is clicking and draining small amounts of power from my engine when its engaged. i think it may not be grounded or just a bad heater unit. Anyone know what going on? Just changed out the heater core in the 90 Legacy. Finally! Couldn't have done it with out you guys!

Could be some thing as simple as a electrical wiring disconnect. My Legacy's wiring is on the passenger side underneath the glove box. Maybe the previous owner did some work on it and never reconnected it. On mine that plug runs the auto seatbelts too.

Thanks Guys, I've never 'burped' my car, but it sounds like a good proposition... Hopefully it doesn't throw upon me. Chief

Right, but if the radiator cap is ice cold after 15 minutes of use, but the hose leading to it is hot, it would lead me to believe that the radiator is not doing its job to cool down the hot water because it is plugged or theres not enough pressure to push it through. I just want to provide a major flush, but don't where the entrance and exit points should be for the water to hit the block, every hose and the radiator before exiting.

I figure I have a plugged radiator, but not sure. I replaced my heater core a few weeks ago and it still leaks so I bypassed it again later, then I refilled my engine with DexCool (What 99% of the USMB would not do) on accident and now my heat gauge is spiking after warming up for awhile and when I stop and open her up, all the hoses are hott, and the radiator cap is cold. I replaces the thermostat and have given 3 medium length flushes, but I think I'm only flushing the radiator... So I figure I need to do a complete flush of the entire cooling system, whats the technique for a super complete flush? Do I need the heater core hooked up to flush the complete line? Should I get some kind of radiator cleaning agent to help dislodge the particles if I do the flush? Is it possible that I created DeathCool "sludge" when it mixed with my green fluid? Thanks!

I just did this operation last weekend, same make 90 legacy, and its a long hual, especially if its a solo project. ie, grab a buddy (for moral support), and a Chiltons Guide. Most of it can be done with a screwdriver and a socket set, and Sid is right, that the most of the labor is in taking apart the dash. Have your replacement core ready, I think all the 90-94 legacy model HC's are the same make. I'd say with no guidance and experience doing this its probably 8-12 hours of work start to driveable keeping it mind that popping vents and undoing screws are the first few hours. Here's some tips for the job. 1. When it comes to getting the dash out of the car (you have to take it all the way off), there are two vertical bolts on the stearing column 9 inches from the steering wheel that will allow the whole column to drop 8 inches and allow you enough space to pull the dash out of the passenger side door. 2. Don't unhook the hoses that run from the engine to the heater core until you're all the way in there. this will allow you to possibly see where the leak is coming from and allow you to work on the car multiple days. 2a. When you come to the directional vent located in between the HC and radio, look closely and the left side where are the tricky levers and vent arm controls are, so you can easily put it back together again. 3. Test your replacement core, especially if its used. and test it after installation to make sure the leak isn't still there. 4. Once we got all the way inside, we couldn't release the HC casing, but loosened the unit (A/C I think) connected to the right of the HC and after some careful yanking it released. We even had to take up the stickshift, and armrest to release the lower console and access bolts holding the dash down. its like a great big puzzle. Other than that, start early and be patient. It's a long haul to the center of your car.

I've got the whole dash assembly apart with just the heater casing left. Can't seem to get it apart and out. If my heater core is leaking into my vents and climate control ducts is it possible that it's not the heater core that's leaking but the reservoir that it sits in is leaking? I'm just wondering if this thing is doable. Advise?

That was it! While fiddling with my dash console the Speedometer came unplugged from the back causing the CEL to activate. Moving on, the next easy step is to replace the heater core! haa Cheers...

Hey all. A Quickie, I've been taking apart my dash to expose my heater core and change it out and in the process had to unhook - rehook some of my electrical wiring under the steering wheel. We couldn't finish the job on Sunday, so we put everything back together except some of the dash buttons, vents etc. Now after I drive for about 15 minutes the Check Engine light comes on and stays on until I shut off the car...for 5 seconds...and then it doesn't come back on until I drive another 10 minutes, etc. etc... So I'm wondering if I unhooked an electrical feature, ie water pump etc, that should kick on after I drive for about 15 minutes... I don't want to sabotage myself with ignorance. One Confused Chiefzon.

I got an engine replacement 15 months ago, I don't thing the heater core was part of the job, but is it possible that the tech - who seemed know his stuff- may have not fit the hose to the core back on quite so well? A full leak in the heater core is pretty rare isn't it? What every it is, its a weekend job... I think the stop leak would be an extreme last resort.

Do you think this is something I can fix myself or is a complex procedure? I have to take it in anyway for new CV Boots/Joints in the next few weeks.

Hey USC! First time on the site and I'm trying to troubleshoot a heating/cooling problem that started yesterday. Usually the defrost on the '90 Legacy wagon is great, but my windshield started fogging up last night and I kicked on the defrost and it socked it my entire windshield in a matter of seconds. It smells like hot radiator fluid and when on hot, it physically steams, and fogs the windshield. Nothing else is out of normal, the temp gauge is a steading 1/3 as usual and the vents are still pushing heat, but with more water content and odor than desirable. Also, engine not hotter than usual (under the hood) and all the belts are in tact as well, and the reservoir has the normal about of fluid. Any suggestions? Thanx!!