sc850r

Thanks for the info. I guess I won't use the 3/4" impact gun this time and the 3 foot breaker bar is totally out of the question!

The passenger side intake gasket on my 95 legacy GT failed after only 5K miles. When I took the manifold off the gasket looked squashed and had cracked in several places. Did I over torque the manifold? What is the correct torque? Do people use sealant or not? Suggestions? Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. When I first checked for codes ther were none- now there are. The intake manifold has failed on cylinders one and two. I guess it was a progressive deterioration. A spray of starting fluid confirms the problem. I'm not sure why it failed since its been replaced relatively recently. Oh well! Maybe its the nitrous (just kidding!).

I've read a number of threads about rough idling, but none seem to address my problem. The car idles okay when cold, but when its hot it gets really choppy, the rpms drop and it feels like it wants to stall. Otherwise, it runs well and the idle gets better when the AC comes on or I step on the gas enough to get the revs to 1000rpm. Any ideas?

Anybody have any specific ideas as to how to change it?

By the way its a 2.5 L with only about 5k on it.)

Its an automatic transmission. It definately isn't running out of power or revs and its not 'about' an indicated 112- its quite precise at exactly 112. It should be good for about 120-125 I would think-especially with the exhaust upgrade, etc (no chip though).

I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy GT and have noticed that everytime,right at 112 mph (closed course, professional driver- naturally) the rev limiter cuts in. I know that in Japan the cars are limited to 110 mph or thereabouts. Is that what's happening i.e. I am running into the factory speed limiter?

I forgot to mention, the console is aleady out (you mean the part around the shifter I quess). Thaks for the input, any other ideas?

HELP! My subariu is partially diassembled and I'm stuck while trying to add a CD player. I cannot get the fascia/cover off that surrounds the radio. I have removed the screws holding the cup holder in and the two screws on the bottom (ashtray screws in earlier cars), but the cover seems pretty stuck on the passengers side where the 12V outlet is, I've pulled pretty hard with no luck. Is there a screw I'm missing? Do I pull harder?

Looks great! Does it still have a clock function?

Help! I have looked at several OEM add-on CD players that are suppose to tie in with my current radio/cassette player, but they are from different years (older and newer) than my car. Does anyone know which years will fit? Thanks!

I believe the word idiot applies to more than the dash light in this case. Shawn you are correct. The irony is that while you were posting your reply I was fishing about under the intake manifold and found the sender and its attendant wire. The sender seems to function a great deal better with the wire actually attached to it as opposed to just being in the vicinity of it. Imagine! DOH!

Thanks for the replies. The gauge was working before the motor swap and, according to the manual, I believe the sender is correct and it has a good ground. I wish I knew the procedure for testing the gauge. Any tips on replacing it?

Help. I just swapped in a new motor for my 1996 Legacy GT and the engine temp gauge is not working. I checked the resistance and the ground at the block temp sender (single blade sensor just to the passenger's side of the alternator and this seens to be in spec. Any ideas? The manual calls for then checking the gauge with something with a known resistance (it gives exact specs). Has anyone done this? I hate to replace the gauge if its not broken. I am also considering the possibility that the ground for the gauge is bad. Any ideas? Thanks!

I have yet to let the tensioner adjuster loose yet in case something is wrong and the pulleys have to come off. I'll recheck te belt against the old one and do the tooth count method next. Thanks.

I am in the process of installing the timing belt on my new 2.5l motor, I've followed the recommended procedure in terms of lining up the marks etc. The concern I have is that there is that the belt doesn't seem to be all that tight on the right side, i.e. there is more slack than I would expect. Is this normal or am I missing something (other than my mind which I lost some time ago:) ).

I found it was a lot easier to get to the converter bolts with the manifold loosened and pulled upwards a bit. Then I could come from in front of the motor with an extension.

Thanks for the info. Subie Gal your car is very nice (saw the photos in another thread). Rigfennid, you may want to start looking for a nice box. There is a tuning firm in England that sells a steetable WRX with 700 plus hp. Docile enough to putter around town, but able to 0-60 in 2.5 sec and the quarter somewhere in the nines at 143 or thereabouts without nitrous. Hit the nitrous and its good for more (about 800 plus hp). My copy of EVO magazine is at work so these numbers are approximate. I would guess these numbers are pretty close to a lot of bikes.

Thanks. 20mm is one of them. The other is either 16mm or 18mm. Anybody out there that can remember?

It looks like I will need another engine in my 96 Legacy GT. I had thought about trying Engineus and was wondering if any one had had any experience with them or had other suggestions. Thanks.

Any idea how much MPG gain youi got?

Hi there! Does any one know the size of the sealing washer for the front differential and oil pan drain plugs for a 96 Legacy GT. I have a chance to by them in quantity, but can't remember the exact sizes. Thanks!

I wonder, would putting the car in gear change the sound related to a failing tensioner or main bearings?

Any tips on pulling the transmission/replacing the flex plate. I say this because the noise definately changes when I put it in gear so maybe it is the flexplate. Thanks.