Sewoolf@ptdprolog.net

BTW, 1999 Outback 30th anniversary

I had my transmission rebuilt about two years ago (4eat) and have experienced problems every time we get a lot of rain. I took it back the first two times and the mechanic replaced the speed sensor both times. The car worked fine until the next big rain, then it happened again. Here are the symptoms: The car starts shifting erratically (skipping first gear, rough shifting after that), torque bind symptoms, the speedometer runs while in park almost as if it is a tachometer. Eventually the AT Temp light starts blinking, then I get a CEL. The code is P0715 (Torque converter turbine speed sensor malfunction). The last time it happened I just waited a few days for things to dry out and then drove the car until the CEL went out. The car has been fine for months until the rain we got last weekend. Then it started again. I am almost a 100% certain that the rain is causing a short somewhere in the wiring from the transmission. Does anyone have an idea where I should look and what I should look for? I see no point in replacing sensors since it has been done twice already and the problem comes back every time we get a lot of rain. Your help is appreciated. Thanks

I ended up buying a new caliper semi loaded with the bracket included. The caliper probably was OK but the extreme temperatures it experienced must have caused some damage. Either way, easy repair. Bled the fluid on all four wheels and back on the road. Replacing rotors this weekend since heat warped the passenger front. Sometimes it is just easier to spend the extra money - still less than the local shop.

It is in there and I really don't have time to mess with it unfortunately. I think i will buy another caliper bracket but can't seem to find one that won't take a few days to get here. Anyone know of a place in Allentown or Bethlehem that would have one tomorrow?

Let me rephrase. The top pin moves freely. The bottom is stuck. This is the caliper with two bolts, one bolt on the top and one on the bottom. How do you remove the bottom pin in order to replace it? It does move at all.

99 Subaru Outback Automatic: Right front wheel is heating up which appears related to recent brake pad replacement. The lower pin for the caliper does not move. I am assuming the caliper should slide easily and this id the cause of the heat and smoke. Is it easy to replace the pin and how?

The fuel pump is not working. I'm trying to figure out if power is getting to it. I need to know how to test the wiring to the fuel pump to isolate the problem. Ther are four wires going to the fuel pump. I'm not sure which wire does what.

Car: 1991 2.2 Turbo My car died last week. I'm leaning towards the fuel pump but I am also suspicious of a bad alternator or timing belt jumping. Prior to the car dyeing I would hear belts screeching in the morning when I started it up. It would soon stop but it sounded different than it did before the screeching thing started. The brake light also came on a few times which happened in the past when the alternator died. I wasn't able to pinpoint the source of the slipping belts but it sounded like it was coming from the timing belt rather than the alternator. The timing belt is still intact but I'm not sure if it jumped. At the same time, it doesn't sound like the fuel pump is turning on when I turn the ignition - i can usually hear it clearly. My question is this. How can I test to make sure power is getting to the fuel pump? I already swapped out a relay to rule that out. There are also some wiring issues on the connector at the end of the ignition switch. The car would jerk a lot at times before it died completely. It seemed like it was running out of gas when it died.

I got the car back yesterday. The mechanic didn't charge me anything since I paid a bundle for the rebuild. He said it was the speed sensor. When asked what caused it to go he claimed "wear and tear". The tranny seems OK overall but the shifting is a little rough at times - not quite a slip but close. The car also seems to be using an awful lot of gas. I'll monitor gas use and watch closely for the next few days but I have a feeling more problems are on the horizon. Good thing I have a warranty for a year.

It did seem OK for a little over two weeks before it started acting up except for maybe being a little slow accelerating. I figured the car being slow was just the way the car runs. I was having trouble with the tranny for so long I was just happy that it would go when i stepped on the gas. Plus, I am used to driving a 5 speed turbo prior to getting this car. Forgive my ignorance, but a "harness" refers to wiring, correct? Inside or outside of the tranny? My main goal here is to have enough information to get the repair covered under warranty and argue that the malfunction is a result of their work and not just a part breaking because of normal wear and tear.

I'll let you know next week after the part arrives. but, what would cause the speed sensor to go coincidentally afet an expensive tranny rebuild?

The codes were read by the mechanic and he indicated it was the speed sensor. Not sure if the speedo is working - the car is at the shop and I didn't notice when I dropped it off. The car was worked on by a bunch of Spanish guys at a place called Relco. I was lured by the false promise of getting a bargain. The tranny does have a year warranty but it only covers the worked they origianlly performed, not additional problems like a speed sensor. Hopefully, i learned my lesson this time. It is always best to go to Soob specialist or do the work yourself.

the car is a 99 outback limited ed, automatic. The fluid was checked two weeks after the rebuild and five days before the problem started - it was fine according to the mechanic. The first symptom was a shudder when stopping - it seemd like the torque converter was locking but not fully. Then, it started shifting erratically shortly after the shudder started. Then, the trnny light started flashing and the shifting became more erratic. Then, the check engine light came on and it seemed to stop shifting completely. I'm pretty sure it was stuck in 2nd gear. The speedo was working the last time I looked but the tranny light, check engine light and shifting issues all occured within a mile or so of the mechanic so I really just wanted to stop driving it before it got damaged more. I know replacing the Torque converter is tricky. Could poor installation create this scenario?

I had my transmission rebuilt about a month ago. all the solenoids and torque converter were replaced as well. Last week as i was coming off the highway the car started to shudder as if the torque converter was going. By the time i got to the mechanic the next day the tranny light was flashing and the check engine light was on. The tranny started shifting abnormally and gradually got worse until it barely shifted at all. The mechanic told me the code said it was a bad speed sensor. Is this correct? I'm thinking they did a poor job and don't want to honor their warranty..

No harm intended, it just didn't seem that you had any intention other than to make me feel even worse than I already did for making this purchase, which i found unuseful. I certanly would have been open to your help if it was offered. Anyway, xTurbo is helping me out by doing the repairs. He will be posting a link to some pics later. I would have swapped the 2.2 but it has 223000 miles on it and has its fair share of problems. I do thank all of you for the input and I hope i can pay off my debts before the car is a pile of rust. I would have purchased something from a dealer with a warranty had I known I would be getting a car with so many problems and would be spending the money I'm spending. I am definitely going to pursue the issue with the seller since he was dumb enough to put a PA inspection sticker on the car while the car had some safety issues going on that made his inspection fraudulent.