89hatch
-
Posts
57 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by 89hatch
-
-
Great info. Keep us updated and pics are always a big plus!
-
I'll be replacing the duty C with a new one this weekend. I'll be taking pictures, but if anyone wants any specific pics or voltage readings, let me know with detail exactly what you want. I'll update with results hopefully next week.
-
Great info, thanks guys!! Ron, did you need any special tools to do the struts? Like a spring compressor or something to compress the strut? I replaced the cv joint so I've had the two bottom strut bolts out. I don't want to take the tops ones out and have the thing jump out doing damage. Thanks
-
Awesome find, congratulations!! I love my 95. Have fun and welcome to the new generations.
-
Alright... so i'm really thinking it's the solenoid.. soooo....
what's involved with changing that? Price.. time... mess?
is there any sort of quick fix? i mean.. i can always throw in the FWD fuse... but i've got to drive a few hundred miles this coming weekend.. (like 600)... anything i should do? i'm getting the tires on my 16" rims changed.... so they'll all be withing subaru spec...
i just don't like driving around in fwd... but i suppose if the solenoid is always screwed.... why not just keep it on it's way out?
I'm going through the saem thing with my 95 Legacy, but mine is throwing a duty c code on startup. I priced the needed parts:
new duty c (31942AA061)
plate under duty c (31952AA030)
2 gaskets between duty/plate & plate/case (31954AA071)
gasket between rear housing and main case (31337AA120)
1st Subaru was cheaper on the parts, but they have a 9.95 min on shipping. So total was 88.66 Subaru Genuine Parts has a $7.25 min on shipping. Total was 88.02. Your part numbers may be different since mine is a 95, but it gives you an idea. Good luck.
-
damn!!!!, i am looking at all these drilling posts and noticing something in common on location. i completely dismantle subarus everyday at my job and never once have i encountered drilling on any suspension bolts. and they say they use harsh road chemicals in pa and nj.......
I agree. Now granted, I've only done one on a subaru, my 95 Legacy, but everything came right off. I even have a torch and didn't use it. I used a 3/8" ratchet for the tie rod end, a 3/4" ratchet for the axle nut and a 1/2" breaker bar and pipe on the strut bolts. Even the ball joint popped right out with a few strikes on the ball joint sperator. I consider myself blessed after hearing everyone else's horror stories:eek:
-
I swapped the trans in my '98 OBW a while ago (bought it with bad trans). Today I pulled the original trans apart to part it out. I found the reason that the car wouldn't even move with the FWD fuse in. Photos attached. Quite amazing! I think that it had been run without gear oil for some time. Not much left of that pinion gear.... Yikes!
Steve
WOW, that looks really bad. Especially that ring gear:eek: If you are parting it out, I'd be interested in the Duty C Solenoid and maybe the clutch pack. Both are in the rear housing. Let me know if you would be willling to sell them. Thanks.
-
Great post...I did not know that:D Maybe before ordering any parts, I should remove the tail end of the trans and take a look at the plate. Maybe I'll get lucky and there are obstructions in it. Is there anyway to test with a volt meter to see what's going on without taking the tail shaft off? Like voltage at the FWD fuse holder or anywhere else? If so, what should the voltage be and when? I don't have torque bind, but the opposite: No light when I put a fuse in the FWD and it seems like it's always in FWD(tried it in the rain). Thanks for the insight.
Actually, I was a little unclear. The Duty Solenoid and that manifold plate together comprise a switch. It changes the relative pressure of AT fluid on one end of the clutch plate assembly, which causes the plates to couple power to the rear driveshaft when they're engaged by that switch. Note to those of you who are trying this at home -- make sure that you either change out that manifold plate (and its gaskets) or that you are sure that there are no obstructions in the channels cut into the plate, or all your hard work getting to and swapping out the Duty Solenoid will be for nothing. -
Here's a link to a thread about my issues with the duty C I'm currently going thorugh
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63094
At the bottom of page three is the link to Wayne's thread from 2004.
-
Yep, he's right. Search for his thread from 2004 with his 96 Outback. There are also a few FSM scans in that thread. I printed it out and used it to diagnose my blinking Trans Temp light using nothing but this thread just this past weekend. I've done all the work myself to keep prices down. One question, what is the manifold switch you're referring to? It looks like there's 2 gaskets and a plate between the duty C and the trans housing. Where's the manifold switch and what does it do? Thanks
There's more on this forum, too. Search on posts by me from about this time last year, and earlier. You'll find that I experienced the same symptoms, and did exactly the same thing you have done thus far (i.e. the FWD fuse). I ran for a very long time before getting around to disassembling the rear extension housing on my AT, but the bottom line is that you can do the work yourself, replacing the Duty Cycle C solenoid, with the manifold switch under it, takes about 5 mins once you have the extension housing removed. If you find either sticky clutch plates (where two or more don't move freely with respect to each other) or if you find scoring inside the extension housing (since until 1997 they didn't use a bearing on the extension housing and the output shaft could wear the housing enough so that the clutch plates would start rubbing on the inside of the housing itself), then you'll have to replace those parts, too. Nevertheless, if you're at all mechanically adept you can do this all yourself for probably around $100-$250 in parts (some used) vs. the $800-$1100 you'd have to shell out if you went to a dealer to have the work done. -
Wow, great info. I searched high and low for topics, but somehow missed this one. Thanks
it is inside the extention housing.look here:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50543
and here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?
-
Pull fuse #14 in the fuse block under the dash on the driver side for at least 1 minute.
How do I clear the memory of the TCU on those Phase I 4EAT transmissions?--D
-
Nipper, I'll be trying the duty C only repair myself and would sure love to take a look at that pdf as well. Although I thought it required removing the tail end of the tranny since that's where the duty C is located. Either way, could you please send it to cbarrls6(at)msn(dot)com? Thanks
i dont ever recalling anyone just doing the C on a car with that mileage. If you havent been driving it i guess it can be done, just dont be surprised if the clutchs are tired also.People here have replaced thier C before, ild say do a search, but there is most likely too may posts here to find it.
I can send you a pdf on a newer tranny (most likely the same ) on how its done. It just requires removla of the pan and valve body.
nipper
-
I was at my local dealer last night asking the parts guy some questions and I stopped by the service counter. I just got a 95 Legacy a couple weeks ago and asked the guy if he could look up any past repairs that were done on the car. I gave him the last 6 of the VIN and he printed out all the Warranty work the car had done when it was newer. It shows the date, what needed done, and even the cost. He said the Subaru dealers only share warranty work with each other. I bought my car in the next town over, so I may visit that dealership to see of they have any past non-warranty records...like timing belt:brow: . No sense in spending money on things that were recently replaced. Of course if your car was never taken to the dealer, they won't have much, but there should be at least any Warranty work that was done. Myabe everyone knows this already, but it was new to me. Plus, best of all, it's free:banana:
-
Great, thanks, I may take you up on that. i need to get the car back on the road. Having some trans issues that I'm getting worked out, but that's explained in another post:rolleyes:
Yeah they will work in the 95. If ya want I have an 02 radio in my basement that we can "test" if you want to see for yourself. (it isn't forsale though)
Let me know if you want to stop by some evening.
-
PM'd you. Anything you can find on the calibration would be great. I don't want to get the new part in there and screw it up. Thanks again.
I can send you the AT section from FSM (PM me) or maybe someone wants to host it: my attachments are at the size limit. Can't find the calibration part as yet but I'll keep looking. -
Wow, great info that I didn't know. I was looking on ebay and saw those cd/cassette/weatherband radios from 98-99 Legacy/Outback. They have the same main connector, but also a smaller rectangle connector for something(Weatherband?). These may not be compatible or at least completely functioning with other models that don't have this other connector. Any ideas? I wouldn't mind putting one of those in my 95 Legacy. Thanks
as long as the radio you are buying is from a subaru that is newer than a 94 they are all cross compatable (ex. the new legacy because they are integrated)i have a 99 legacy that i put an 03-04 baja radio into it. Plug and play!
You are talking about the integrated 6 disk with cassette right? If you are talking about "the add on" type then you need to make sure the reciever has the hookups in the back to run the external CD changer.
-
Hey, I just got done using some of your FSM scans from a thread from 2 years ago. I don't know if you remember, but you were helping a guy with a 96 Outback. Your scans helped me diagnose the trans problem by showing a code 24(duty C solenoid). I know it's a royal pain, but is there anyway you could provide scans for the duty C solenoid and clutch pack replacement. If that's too much, just the duty C replacement would be great. I don't have a lot of money to pay someone and I'm hopefully capable of replacing it with a little instruction. Thanks either way.
According to '95 FSM, the procedure involves selecting a correct thickness for the gasket under the solenoid, which affects calibration. There are several sizes with different part numbers. Also, there were TSBs with updates about this repair. -
I replaced the fluid 2 weeks ago. It drives absolutely fine, you'd never know there was a problem if it weren't for the blinking Trans Temp light and/or getting stuck in the snow a few months from now:eek: . I think I'll just replace the duty C and see what I have. At least maybe then the FWD light will come on with the fuse and my AWD will be back. I don't know which problem is worse: FWD all the time or torque bind:-\ . Thanks
-
Thanks for the response. The fluid looked original. It didn't smell burnt, but was more of a brown color instead of the pinkish/red of new. When I remove the rear part of the trans to get at the duty C, will I be able to see the clutches? Are they located in the same area or where? What will they look like if they're in bad shape? I've seen a worn or glazed clutch disk(for manual trans). Will it look the same? Obviously, if I can get to them and they look shot while I have the trans apart to replace the duty C, I'd like to take care of everything all at once. Thanks
DUty c SOlenoid is not just TB. Its a valve thats stuck open, internally shorted or opened, or electrical failure resulting in TB. SOunds like yours is stuck open. This can be from gunk in the fluid or a mechanical failure of the valve. Another possability is that your clutches are so glazed that the dont transmit power to the rear wheels anymore.nipper
-
I finally got some time to diagnose the blinking Trans Temp light this past Saturday. It turns out it's code 24, the duty C solenoid. I was wondering, but wasn't sure since torque bind is usually associated with this solenoid failure. I have none, but it looks like I have no AWD and only FWD. I read where putting it in low makes it a 50/50 split so I tried it in the rain, but still only the front wheel would spin. Hopefully, the duty C is stuck and getting a new one will fix the problem. If the clutch pack is fried, well then I guess it's used trans time. If anyone wants to diagnose their own trans error code(Trans Temp blinks 16 times on startup), I suggest this past thread. It took me less than 30 minutes to diagnose using only this thread as a resource. And the best part is it's free with no special tools needed. Maybe it should be made a sticky.
I'll update once I get the new duty C. Here's the link...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19805&highlight=4EAT+%2896+Outback%29
-
Thanks for the link. I didn't see it on their site, but I didn't need the info as fast as I had thought. I'll give the local dealer a call. Thanks again.
Ask Jamie athttps://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html
or check their site and see if they show it.
nipper
-
I need the part # for the duty c solenoid for a 95 Subaru Legacy 4EAT. Or at least what years are the same as a 95. Thanks
-
Excellent article...thanks a lot!!
A '95 model is right at the beginning of OBD-II, so it doesn't surprise me that trans codes aren't reported via it. As you mentioned, using a ground probe with diagnostic connector B82 should allow you to retrieve codes by reading AT temp light flashes. If you don't already have it, http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf could be useful. The bottom of page 12 through page 14 in particular should be relevant.
Jacking my '85 BRAT
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Yeah, I've jacked up where Subaru recommends for the factory jack and after hearing a lot of crunching and seeing the jack start to put a hole in the floor, I let it down and jacked up on the crossmember.