740gle
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Posts posted by 740gle
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1 hour ago, gbhrps said:
740gle,
Go back to the dealership and demand that they put things right. Both front seats use the same fasteners and the same plastic covers over them (only the reverse of each other as per different sides of the car).
I think you'll find that the technician was interrupted during his service for your car and just never got around to checking his work. Regardless, this is not right. Get it fixed!
So, it is necessary to take the front passenger seat off to replace the airbags? It's 2014 Legacy 2.4i.
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Was just looking around and noticed that bolts that fix the passanger seat frame in the rear to the body don't look same as on the driver seat.
First, plastic covers are gone, second - one of the screws is missing...??? I have never touched that myself
But I had Takata airbag recall done couple of weeks ago, is that related??? As in - "... they just rushed to push the car out and forgot to put some parts back?"
I also had 120K maintenance done, but I don't see anything done there that would touch the front passenger seat??
-Michael
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7 hours ago, heartless said:
side mirrors are pretty easy to replace.
Look here for FSM (Factory Service Manual): http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
I am not familiar with the newer models, but all of the ones I have been around (late 80s to 2006) there is a trim panel on the inside that pops off to expose the nuts that secure the mirror to the door. Most likely will need to pop the door panel loose to access the wiring harness connectors, but that is not usually all that difficult either. Just take your time so you don't break anything
As I said - I actually got glass replaced altogether at the dealer ~$35. But thanks for the FSM link - that's a treasure !, even though some of it is in Russian ??
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OK, got the mirror glass replaced. Just called my Friendly Local Subaru dealer, they actually had the part in stock for less than Price+S&H from the above site. I went there to pick it up, and they just put it on my car for free. About 5 minutes job for a skilled person. The same as in the video - you need a screwdriver to reach and to unlock the clips holding mirror glass to the rest of the assembly to take the broken one off the car, and then the new one just snaps in place it's pretty obvious once the old one is out.
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2 hours ago, forester2002s said:
Yes, I would prefer to go this way, replacing just the glass and not the whole unit. Just the mirror element at the dealer not far from me costs a bit more ,and would take couple of days to get in stock. There it is even cheaper online here
How difficult is it to replace? I found just one video on YouTube, https://youtu.be/mjYPsYfwqHk for Crosstrek - is Legacy the same? Is there any other source of knowledge? A shop manual, or a write-up anywhere on the interwebs?
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Driving thru COnnecticut got the passenger side mirror glass cracked. What are my options - do I have to replace the whole assembly, or is it possible to replace just the glass? It's 2014 2.5i Premium - mirror is heated.
Thanks,
-Michael
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On 4/23/2019 at 1:37 AM, lmdew said:
It becomes very soft and yes to hot to touch without a glove.
Yep, got a real heat gun - 2 stages $24.97 at my local Home Depot, and it was easy. Thick, but not too thick gloves are indeed essential, or some thick cushion to push thru at the bumper on the inside.. It's not up to the level of work I would accept from the professional body shop, the corner is no longer creased on the outside as before, although there is still a little dent visible if you know where to look and scratches needs buffing, But given where I drive and park, and as I am not looking into selling or trading it - it looks good enough.
Overall for less than an hour of work + $25 investment in a heat gun is pretty good.
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4 minutes ago, lmdew said:
I have a dual element propane garage heater:
Mr. Heater, MH30T Double Tank Top Outdoor Propane Heater
Put it about 12" from the bumper and let it warm up. Make sure you wear heavy leather gloves.
Works great!
So how hot should the plastic be? Too hot for the touch with bare hands? I never got it to the point where I could not hold my bare hand to it.
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Has anyone tried to right the dent in the rear plastic bumper cover on a Legacy heating it with the heat gun or boiling water as they show on Youtube videos? I have tried but never could get the plastic soft enough to yield. Having no previous experience was afraid to go too hard on it with heat.
Perhaps I should have tried more heat? Or are 14' Subaru bumpers just made to be harder than the others?
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We'll see if it's true or not. But I've heard from my oil distributor that select Honda and Toyota engines are going to come factory filled with 0w16 for this model year.
Not all of their engines. But like one or two.
Either way. If you filled a 0w16 engine with 0w20 is it actually going to matter?
Purely theoretical les than semi- educated guess - higher viscosity -> higher oil pressure, and higher heat losses -> higher temps for the rubbing parts. OTOH - there are other factors to play here - heat transfer properties of the oil, etc... Only the real data would tell, Anybody has experience running this engine on 5w30 for ~100kmiles or more?.
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Funny thing - the stuff the Subaru engineers designed wont make 500 HP. So we have had to go elsewhere for quite a few parts.
Do 25 pulls on a dyno running a high performance Blouch turbo on Mobile 1 and you start to see that all oils aren't created equally. Mobile 1 will cause thrust bearing failure in short order. Not enough zinc and film strength is far too weak.
Have a read though this:
GD
subaru engineers didn't have 500HP spec, they were designed to the crash tests, mileage, EPA, costs, qualified suppliers, serviceability, etc....
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Thanks guys, if Mobil 1 is OK, next time it what it is going to be...
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ANyhoo, it turns out that subarupartsandaccessories.com has original Subie oil at $5.83 which with shipping is still a bit more than mobil 1, but it'll come to my doorstep, hopefully with the filter and gasket
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Subaru doesn't make their own oil. It's no better that what you can get at any parts store. I've never used Amsoil products but others that have swear by them.
yes, they do not, but they may have soemthing special. Like for instance with synthetic AT for some cars (Volvos) plain vanilla mobil 1 synth AT would not do, there is a fine print...
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Amsoil. And personally we prefer to run 5w30. The 0w20 spec is for CAFE standards, not engine longevity.
GD
Amsoil is $12/qt. Ouch.... I've been running Mobil-1 in many different cars including Subies, and didn't have any problems at about 1/3rd of the price...
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Subaru specs synthetic oil for the above. The Subaru oil 0-20 is $7+/quart from the dealer, Is 0-20w Mobil One acceptable, or is there some additional Subaru specific requirements?
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It's not that quick. It's a 14' Legacy, would have to raise it on the ramps, which is possible, but still a bit tricky with the low air dam on front. And what happens with that proudly stickong Fumoto if it gets hit by some debri on the road?
It takes 5.1 Qts - 1 gallon bottle is not enough.
I already have the extractor.
It has oil filter at the top under the hood,
and unless there is some other reason to get under the car, why bother?
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Called a dealer service department, they said as long as the thread is "good" it's OK to replace just one tire but it has to be the same brand/model. Looks like the newer AWD system can tolerate diameter/circumference differences that are as large as whatever is due to the thread wear over the tire lifetime?
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Yes, 1/4" circumference is how I remember and it was always in the manual, this 2014 does not list it. Why front left?
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Had a flat yesterday, tires are pretty new <10Kmiles on them, very little thread wear. thinking on replacing only that one.
tirerack says the full thread depth spec is 10/32", I measure 9/32" with my caliper.
Searched the owner manual and found no mention that it may damage AWD?
IIRC for my previous 02' and 2010' Legacy there used to be some acceptable tolerance on the tire diameter difference, but see nothing here?.
Is the difference in tire diameter (circumference) no longer an issue with the new AWD drive for this MY?
-Michael
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Thanks for the hint, it helped indeed. The clips separate fairly easy, just have to push the headliner up and pry the cover down. Old lock unclipped with no problems, just pry one of the sideclips holding it with a small screwdriver and push it out, then same on the other side,and it pushes out all the way. New one just clips in place.
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I am trying to replace a lock on the overhead console box. It is a P/N 92184 shown here
http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/LOCK-COMPLETE-CONSOLE-BOX/60892020/92184AJ020.html
It looks like it just goes into its place, but first I have to take the old one out. Before taking my Dremel out and grinding the old one out, I am wondering if there is a gentler way to take it out. Perhaps by taking out the whole console box, and pushing the old lock out from the other side?
Here is where I am stuck. There are 2 obvious screws under the box cover, easy taken out, and then pry off the front-facing edge of the console. But something (clip ? P/N W140024 at the top on that diagram) is holding the other side of the box in place rather strongly. Where and how hard should I pry, pull, or push to take it out? Is the clip clip going to be destroyed? should I get a new one? or two?
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Actually the Owner's Manual does have it, it says 89lbf*ft.
<http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/75038/pdf/ownerManual/075038_2014_Legacy/MSA5M1404ASTIS_18.pdf>
Thanks,
-Michael
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Takata airbag recall requires passenger seat remove?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Went to the dealership today. Yes, they confirmed seat does not need to be touched for Takata airbag replacement, they only take the dash out. The funniest thing is that the only one screw, is apparently how it is designed. Yes, there is a hole, but there is no thread under it. Only the rail that is close to the center is has the screw, the other one doesn't.
They showed me on other Legacy they had on the lot.