Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

740gle

Members
  • Posts

    131
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 740gle

  1. I have Yokohamas v4s 205/55/16R on my '02 Legacy GT wagon, that have about 10Kmiles on them. One tire has bulge on a sidewall, so it needs replacement. Dealer carried these (and only these) tires, but they want $125 per tire.

     

    1) Can I replace only 1 tire? 2 tires? What is the spec when all 4 need to be replaced?

     

    2) I see ContiExtremeContact on Tirerakck get very nice reviews and are cheaper, than Yokos. What's the real life rap on them?

     

    Thanks,

    -Michael

  2. Not to be cynical, but did you get the old parts back?

     

     

    No, they never do.... I've been going to them since we've got the car.

    The fuel filter doesn't look like it's very old anyways. I am doing oil changes and simple tuneup (wires, spark plugs) myself, though.

     

     

    You might find these of interest:

    http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf

    http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/07FebFuelEW.pdf

     

    Thanks,

     

    Possible exhaust restrictions can be tested for with a vacuum gauge.

     

    Details or references would be very much appreciated.

     

    -Michael

  3. without looking into diagnosis, you didn't mention your fuel filter has been changed recently. change it. it takes like 5 minutes with a phillips screwdriver. a clogged fuel filter will start starving the engine at higher RPM, just like you say is happening. even if this doesn't immediately solve your loss of power, it's certainly a good thing to do.

    ~Erik~

     

    Fuel filter and transmission fluid were replaced last summer (10K miles ago) by the dealer as part of the 90Kmiles service.

     

    I've seen a fuel filter under the hood, and it doesn't seem to be a difficult job to replace it, although, I've never did anything on the fuel system. How do you relieve the fuel pressure?

     

    -Michael

  4. Both my wife and I noticed a lack of usual power in our 02' Legacy GT (non-turbo).

     

    It is definitely slower when merging in traffic and off the line.

    It feels like it flattens out or even drops the acceleration above 3000 rpm's

     

    I have just changed oil and filter, and air filter.

    Spark plugs and wires where replaced a year ago or so, with the OEM parts.

     

    Where do I look for?

    No OBDII codes. Mileage is as usual, or even somewhat better, no strange noises, no visible oil in the coolant, and no visible coolant in the oil.

     

    If it was manual transmission, I'd suspect slipping clutch, it feels similar.

    Can it be something slipping in AT, or AWD ?

     

    It does have some exhaust leak, but I am not sure it may be related to the power loss ?

     

    -Michael

    02' Legacy GT wagon 101Kmiles

  5. Liberty Subaru in your NJ has an online parts department. Call them up and ask for Discount Parts and buy genuine Subaru parts for cheap.

     

    Never heard of them, thanks for the tip, I'll give them a call. Their web site doesn't seem to behave.

     

    The oil on the plug wires is a result of leaking grommets where the plugs go through the valve cover. Might as well replace them and the valve cover gaskets at the same time. Check with your dealer and see if this is considered part of the 5 year 60K drive train warranty.

     

    I have 88Kmiles on it, no warranty any more. :-(

     

    Can I just replace these grommets, without touching the valve covers/gaskets?

     

     

     

    If it is, buy the wires and let the tech replace them when he does the grommets/gaskets:banana:.

     

    What's Banana ?

    Do I have to replace valve gaskets to replace plugs?

     

    Is there any good reference, or manual, paper, or on-line?

     

    Thanks again for the advice,

    Michael

  6. Today, the first time since I got it new in November 2001, it refused to start. Was catching, while cranking, but choked and stalled immediatly.

     

    Popped up the hood while my son was cranking, Geez - sparks dancing around all-over the hi-voltage cables.

    WD-40 spray made it start again, apparently it needs new wires, so here are my questions:

     

    1) Any preferred brand/vendor for the wires, except the dealer?

    2) How does one get to them?

    I did manage to pull the ones from the two cylinders clossest to the front on both sides, but how do I get to the other two?

    Do I have to pull out the washer fluid reservoir, and whatever else is there in my way?

    3) When I pulled the wire out from the cylinder on the driver side - it was all covered with the motor oil. The other one was clean. WTF? DO I need a new head or valve gasket?

    4) What else should I replace/clean/grease as a PM under the hood on this car, and how do I get there?. Distributor is obviously not an issue here. Grounds?

     

    Sorry, if my questions sound trivial to the enlightened, This is the first time I am going to do anything beyond topping off the fluids and changing the oil on this car.

     

    Any advice, suggestions, real life experiences would be greatly appreciated,

     

    Thanks in advance,

    Michael

  7. Just did some troubleshooting following your leads,:

    checked both LH and RH headlight fuses and relays in the M/B - everything looks nice and clean,

    started the car - problem is there: left headlight is on, right headlight is off,

    measured voltage on the RH fuse - 14V,

    pulled RH relay, voltages on the relay contacts all read - 14V except one, which I suspect controls the thing.

    pulled LH relay - left headlight went out, but the high beam bulb came up, athough very dim,

    plugged the LH relay back, and both right and left headlights are now up, and bright.

    Turn the car on/off few times - all up.

    It is all looking good now, but WTF? Why was it happening? Why pulling out and plugging back the Left headlight relay fixed the Right side?

    I suspect, there must be some brain, that goes nuts - is it DRL control module? Where is it? Where is the light sensor located, may be it is just dirty, and it cannot decide whether it is night or day?

     

    Is this system designed in the way, that when the low-beam bulb goes out, it gets the hi-beam to help? Smart :-)

     

    Thanks for all the help and advice.

    -Michael

  8. :headbang: I had a problem with our 95 Legacy, headlight out, replaced the bulb, 2 weeks later same thing, replaced bulb and nothing. The socket the bulb was plugged into crumbled (from heat?) Spliced in new socket and no problem. The socket wasnt obvious the first time. My 2 cents!

     

    The bulbs on my `02 don't go into the socket, they are held by a clip in place. and two wires just plug on the bulb pins.

     

     

    -Michael

  9. Whenever I turn on the headlights/DRL, sometimes both of them turn on, and sometimes only one - either right or left.

    So simetimes I am driving with just left light on, sometimes with only the right one, and sometimes - both.

    WHen both are up - one is brighter than the other.

     

    Next time after I shut it down, and start again - they may come up in the sam ecombination, or differently - may be both, may be just one, but not always the same one.

     

    Fogs are fine too, always both turn on when turned on.

    High beams are fine - always both come up.

     

     

    -Michael

  10. Had this car since new for about 4 years now, but I only noticed this morning, that there is no cover for the dash space from the bottom on the passanger side.

    Basically you can see and touch all the internals looking up under the dash.

    Aren't they supposed to be covered?

    Surrounding panels seem to have some slots for the fitting of another cover piece.

    Car was in the shop couple of weeks ago, may be they forgot to put the cover back? Could someone with the 02' Legacy confirm?

     

    What about the driver side?

     

    Thanks,

    Michael

  11. Others here will likely have more experience. You might consider taking it back to the shop, or a mechanic, with the groundhog story and the receipt listing the underbody work. Let them have a look. If you want to give it a go yourself - first thing, make sure you have plenty of fresh air where you work anytime the engine is running - no enclosed areas! take off the plastic 'skidplate' dealie, open the hood, start the vehicle, have someone else use a piece of wood or something and mostly block off the exhaust and listen for telltale noises.

     

    That shop is primarily the body shop, but they are only 2 blocks away, so I'll might pay them a visit first. My insurance paid them well, they made an estimate, and do the repairs themselves, they used all the dealer parts, had car for a week waiting for them, but did not mention any exhaust damage.

    RE: the fresh air - no problem, none of my cars fit in the garage, so I am stuck with my driveway.... and I'll definitely take a look.

     

    -Michael

    02' Legacy GT

  12. FWIW - I had the same situation with my 02' Legacy GT.

    It happened few weeks after I got new Yokohamas for it from the Tirerack.

    I've used them for few times, and like the service, I use the shop that is recommended by them, they ship to the shop, I supply the car, and it's done.

    Of course you want to make sure that the shop is good.

    The only disadvantage is that it usually take few days, up to a week to get this done.

     

    On that occasion I had to get a new tire quickly, and to my surprise - Subaru dealer was the only place around having exactly the same tires in stock, I was prepared to get all 4 replaced, but they measured them,turned out within 1/4'', and I got away with only 1 tire replaced. It did cost a bit more (like 10 or 20 bucks), compared to tirerack, but my wife didn't have to drive in snow storm with the donut....

     

    HTH, YMMV

    Good luck,

    -Michael

    02' Legacy GT wagon

  13. yeah, can u describe the noise? Or can you see a rusted through area. Did the sound show up after any service or unusual incident?

     

    Carl

    I have mentioned this in a different thread about the high-pitch sound it started making when kicking-down the transmission. And couple fo days ago, someone (was it you, or nipper?) has mentioned in that thread, that it might be an exhaust leak, not really related to the transmission.

     

    Monday in addition to the high pitch sound at kick-down, it developed a nice, not very loud, but noticeable rumble sound, like the turbos with the 3'' exhaust would.

     

    So now - the symptrms are:

     

    at low speed, at some resonance rpm it makes a trembling sound like the heatshild would with the spot weld getting loose,

     

    when accelerating at about 3rpm it makes nice low rumble as if it had a modified exhaust,

     

    and finally when kicking it even more around 4k rpm - it's high pitch, almost screeching sound....

     

     

    It all started after my wife hit a groundhog on hi-way, and almost all plastic shielding under the body had to be replaced by the body shop.

     

     

    After that it started making all these noises, but I would never think, they might be related. Now I think may be indeed not just the shielding got damaged, but may be some welding seam got cracked, or a gasket shifted.

     

    There is no obvious rust on a system, I never suspected exhaust before it started making obviously exhaust-like sounds.

     

    I am pretty ignorant with Subarus, and never done any exhaust work myself, so - what would one look for to find were it may be leaking, and the more basic quetion - where is a good spot to put a hydraulic jack to raise the front, and what are the good points for the jack stands.

     

    I've never did anything to it beyond the oil and filter changes, and I was using ramps for that.

     

    -Thanks for all the advice,

    -Michael

  14. I've found posts on changing your own tranny fluid, but, I'm lazy. Is the method that the oil change places use a good idea? You know, they connect the tranny to some pump machine and pump the oil through. I was thinking about having them do this with Mobil 1.

     

    I've heard, that these machines use excessive pressure, that might break some seals, especially in the older ones.

    The factory recommended procedure on the older Volvos is to disconnect the line running AT fluid to the cooler, and idle the engine to bleed it out, replacing it thru the dipstick at the same time. Nice and easy, and replaces all of the fluid. Some aftermarket places even sell a hose with the proper fittings to plug into the radiator AT line

    WOnder if it is possible on Subarus?

     

    -Michael

×
×
  • Create New...