yngvai

It was the air flow meter assembly. The shop said the diagnosis code indicated that the computer controlling it was shot. I also replaced the air filter since it was pretty filthy. Question, how much is a reasonable amount for a repair shop to charge for the diagnostic test? I felt like I was in a bind so I just paid for it, but it seems like something that should be real cheap. Isn’t it just hooking the car up to a computer and looking at the results? Anyway, thank you for your help. This board never fails to impress.

94 Subaru Legacy 89k miles. While driving home on the highway tonight, it started bucking intermittently. I wasn’t accelerating or decelerating when it started, just cruising at about 60mph. I downshifted to slow down and see if it did anything to help. It did for a second, then started up again. Luckily, I was at my exit. As I was going off the ramp I threw it into neutral to see if that would help matters and the bucking stopped. At the bottom of the ramp, at the stop light, I revved the engine a little, and there was no stutter or bucking there. I put it into 1st gear, it went forward OK for a little bit but started bucking again slightly AND the “Check Engine” light came on. I was only ¼ of a mile from home, so I took it easy. Right before I pulled into the driveway the Check Engine light went out, and the bucking stopped. Is this something as simple as a tune-up needed? Maybe there's something that needs to be flushed out? Any suggestions?

Clark and Snowman, thank you also for your suggestions, and Clark, you were correct in that there was something draining the battery. About 4-5 weeks ago, we had about 5 inches of snow. I opened my trunk to get out my shovel. When I went to close the trunk, it wouldn't stay closed. In the 11+ years I've owned the car, the trunk latch was always been a little touchy, and I sometimes have to slam it harder than I probably should in order to get it to stay shut. I knew that that's not how it's supposed to be, but I was getting by with it for a long time so I never thought anything more about it. Anyway, when I when I went to close the trunk it wouldn't stay shut, like it has in the past. I gave it the usual extra oomph, but no go. Again, only harder. Nothing. One more time, even harder - and it stayed shut...mostly. It wasn't sealed shut the way it was supposed to be, the lid was still propped up about a quarter inch or so. But it stayed closed. (My guess, now, is that a piece of ice slid down and was preventing the lid from closing. I feel like an idiot because I always brush the snow off before I open the trunk, except for one time...this time.) I didn't know I had bent the latch inside until a few days later went I went to open the trunk (I had put the shovel inside the car rather than in the trunk). I turned the key - and nothing happened. No resistance, no latch catching, no nuthin'. I got someone to turn the key while I crawled into the trunk through the backseat. It turns out my slamming bent part of the latch so that when the key turned the mechanism wasn't turning with it. (I'm sure I have the actual piece names incorrect). Anyway, to make a long story short (too late) the lid wasn't staying closed all the way, and the trunk light was remaining on at all times. While this normally wouldn't be a big problem if I drove the car every day, I don't. I walk to work one day a week, I live within walking distance of many things, and there are also times where I'll go two days over a weekend without driving. So there's no constant regular charging to prevent a slow drain from affecting the battery. So I just unplugged the line running into the trunk light. That should take care of the problem for now. I'll know in about 9-10 days if it worked, since that seems to be the timeframe that the last two batteries ran dry. Thing is, the first battery I had to replace when this all started was the original battery that came with the car when I bought it! Damn thing was fine for over a decade, 87k miles! Had the Subaru brand label on it and everything. My next step is to either try and bend the trunk latch piece back into place or replace the mechanism completely. At least there's no rain leaking into the trunk, I just felt around during the current rainstorm and it's cold in there, but dry. So thanks again. This board is great. The last time I came here was on a vibration my car had, and the nails I put in to keep the heat shielding in place are still there, working beautifully.

Thanks for the reply, Jerry. I will certainly check this out.

I have a 94 Legacy, 88k miles. About a month or so ago the bettery died. Not completely, it gave me that click-click-click sound, but not enough to start the car. A jump was able to get it started. I took it to a place I trust, and had it replaced with an Interstate battery. About ten days later later the new battery died, too. When I took it back I asked if they had looked at the alternator. They told me they did, but they rechecked it, and said that it was just a defective battery. It's been another 11 days and I just went to start the car. Now the battery is completely dead. No click sound. Not even the dome light will go on. I think the chances of two defective batteries is incredibly slim. The place took it to is a respectable place, so I don't think they're screwing with me when they say it isn't the alternator, but what else could it be? Thanks.

Here's what happened: My buddy got the car up, slid under the car, and had me rev the engine to the point where the vibrations occurred. He told me that he had the same problem with his Maxima a few couple of years back, and he had just removed the offending part to solve. After I got the engine to the right point, he said vibrations were coming from a couple of different locations. We then switched places so I could see for myself. The vibrations were coming from the middle of the car and the front, near the catalytic converter. First of all, yes, there was plenty of rust along the shielding where the bolts are. I was able to break off some small bits just using my fingers. I suggested we remove the shielding, but he said that the idea of wedging some metal in there sounded like a better idea so that the shielding would stay. Not that I park in tall weeds or anything, but if this idea didn’t work, removing the shielding would always remain an option. So, after the nails got pounded in, we lowered the car and I took it for a spin up and down the street. What a world of difference! Amazing that a few nails could solve this problem! Of course, going under the car I saw that the muffler is going to need replacing within the next year, as a hole looks like its being rusted through. I suppose this is not unusual for a car of this age. In return I helped him bleed the brakes on a ‘71 Camaro he’s rebuilding. A fair enough trade. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I certainly now know where to come for future questions on my Subaru!

Cool. I knew I came to the right place! Thanks a lot. I'll be doing this this weekend.

94 Legacy 78,000 mi. I'm getting a vibration at low RPMs from the heat shielding. This happened once before, right before a service call so I let them take care of it then. Now, I have no reason to bring it in, and I'm wondering if it's something I can take care of myself. I have a friend who knows a bit about cars, and he offered to take a look. I'm wondering if there's a site or something that would show exactly where the shielding is located and what specifically would need to be done. Would it be just a matter of tightening something? I've looked around online and couldn't find anything. My apologies if I wasn't technical or precise enough; I'm not too savvy when it comes to this kind of stuff. Thanks in advance.