Jump to content

destey

Members
  • Content count

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About destey

  • Rank
    USMB is life!
  • Birthday 07/30/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Vermont
  • Occupation
    Quality Control
  • Vehicles
    1995 Legacy 5spd sedan
  1. It was the main propeller shaft. I put in a used one I had bought a while back from a junkyard and the vibration disappeared. Originally I bought the new driveshaft because the junkyard one was rusted and pitted at the transmission end and wore out the seal. So that part outfit sent me 2 bad propeller shafts, the original one was bad and so was the replacement.
  2. A lititle bit in the steering wheel when it gets bad at about 45 or so. I see the rear view mirror vibrating and I can feel vibration on the cabin interior
  3. Swapped in a new axle to the left rear, still doing it. That rules out all the CV axles. Has to be the rear differential, front differential, auto transmission or propeller shaft. I did notice when I had the car on the lift for the last axle change that when I spun the tires, the main propeller shaft wobbles. Which is weird since this I put a new propeller shaft in, then returned it due to thinking it was bad, and the replacement didn't help either. Not sure what else it could be. Going to put in the original prop shaft and see it changes.
  4. Put the axle that I took out of the left front and put it in the right front, still doing it. That just leaves the right rear axle, rear differential, front differential, or automatic transmission. Doesn't look like its the right rear cv axle based on the video. Nor does it look like the rear carrier is vibrating. I guess the next step is to try and mount that camera to each thing and see if it vibrates. If that doesn't seem to find it, I ordered a cheap arduino accelerometer module from china. I'll build this and see if I can pinpoint it http://stevesprojectpages.com/accelerometer-data-logger-with-ir-trigger/
  5. Here's a couple of videos of the axles. The right front one didn't come out very well, you can only see the axle barely. The second video of the right rear is better. Doesn't seem to be vibrating from the right rear axle. The differential doesn't look to be vibrating either. I'm going to try and get another video of the right front tomorrow. Sort of looks like its vibrating but hard to tell. https://youtu.be/U-2-xwKjzO0 https://youtu.be/GymuEYBT6Pw
  6. Put another new axle in the left rear, still doing it.
  7. Just drained it and no metal debris. Hopefully the rear differential is ok. Left rear axle coming at the end of the week. I'll post an update after I get that in
  8. I could be wrong but I think mechanically the car is essentially FWD with a second shaft that puts power to the rear axles through a clutch pack for momentary AWD. The cluck pack is normally off and locks up when it detects wheel slip. That's the gist I got from looking at a model of the transmission innards The 5spd is a little different and functions more as a full time AWD, as the center differential is a viscous coupling that doesn't allow for too much RPM difference between front and rear shaft speed
  9. Is this a good idea? I read somewhere that with load off (ie on a lift) the vehicle the suspensions moves past its limits and can damage the CV axles. I've done it in the past with other subarus though without harming anything so not sure if that's true or not.
  10. Confirmed with the manufactuer that I did put in the correct rear axles (Surtrack SB8048 and SB8049). That being said, this weekend I removed the left rear, and it was really really stuck in the center differential. I couldn't get it pried out with just a 4ft crowbar, I had to use a metal wedge that I usually use for removing ball joints and jam it on one side (while avoiding the dust ring) and pry with the crowbar on the opposite side. Took almost everything I had to get it out. Other side is just a normal slip on fit. Not sure what happened but its looking like somethngs up with that left rear axle or maybe even the differential. That was where the clicking was coming from also.
  11. Now that I'm looking for new axles, I almost wonder if I bought the wrong axles back when I changed them. I used the Suretrack sb8048 and sb8049. One place on ebay has it as for the 5spd. Another says its for both. Then Rock auto says its for the 5 spd. Overall length seems to be a difference of 1/16th of an inch between those two axles and one I found that says its for an auto. Can anyone confirm this are right or wrong? I have a 2000 legacy gt limited auto
  12. If you put in the FWD fuse and nothing changes, it doesn't tell you much. I think its mostly to troubleshoot the AWD clutch pack.
  13. I doubt its the struts. Bad struts will make it handle a little crapy and bounce after bumps, but not vibrate. By U joint I think they mean the main propeller driveshaft. Which is over $400 and difficult to replace without a lift. Used ones of that era are hard to come by that are in good condition, because the needle bearings in the joints are usually shot after all those years
  14. I'm thinking of setting up a little camera under the body by the CV shaft to see if I can see it vibrating. I'm just sick of buying new parts, spending hours putting them in, and it not fixing the problem.
×