BruceY

To the left of the throttle body, there are TWO solinoids identical in appearence. One is closer to the T.B. than the other but both are within 3" of each other. Which one????

just got a hold of 2 each (I know I needed only 1) 33ohm 5 watt resisters. I have a question on where to plug it into. Can someone post a picture of where the purge solinoid and where to put the resister?

Thank you G D I'll drive it to work tomarrow which is a 22 mile drive on I-95 and "hope" it goes out. I'll hold off getting a purge valve for now. Is the toyota valve less expensive than the Subaru ($177 new)

Well here I am today, I know it's been a while. I FINIALLY got to replace the O2 sensor today. Initially I still have the "CHECK ENGINE" light on when I start the engine. Do I need to RESET it some how? Also IF it is the purge control valve , can someone direct me of post a picture of this valve?

Where's THAT solinoid located?

Nick First, Thank You for the reply. Second, My Subbie has 142k miles and as if I recall has never had the O2 sensor replaced so maybe I'll just put a new one in and see if codes clear up. What about the Purge Control Soleonid? Sounds like a dealer item?

Today was the first time I could work on it. I pulled the panel under the steer colum, White connectors hooked together, turned the key to "run" but not start. I counted 3 long then 5 short THEN I counted 3 long with 2 (or 3) 99% it was 2 short . Then it just kept repeating over and over yippie I'm getting info now:banana: HEHE Anyhow does those mean 35 and 32 ? Just a note 1992 Loyale single point injection?

OPPS:-\ Next time, white connectors it is. Just to be sure, white conectors next to the green ones?

ok Here it is. this AM I got under the dash, removed 4 small screews holding a small cover AND then did I see the LED blinking:grin: . I had the two green conectors together in the engine compartment. When I moved the car to my driveway, the check engine light was NOT lit. ANyhow I proceeded with the test. I counted each flash. It would flash 7 times fast, have a brief pause then 7 again. this kept repeating itself over and over. After 3-4 mins I figured it would change the pattern but didnt:-\ . Maybe the CHECK ENGINE light not being on when the engine is running is affecting my observations?

I had the panel pulled , and with a mirror and some bending was unable to see any blinking lights. I did see a aluminium colored box with yellow connectors at one end that had no lights on either end. NOT one to say I'm perfect, I'll look again tomarrow:-\

Tested for CODES today. Did what was told. I did 2 ways. Connected two white ones in engine compartment with engine on at first then with engine off, both times SAME result. My Check Engine , Charge, and a 3rd light was lit . as the code I thought was suppoesd to blink , nothing happened other than a clicking sound eminating from Solinoid 6 , Steady timing tick- tock tick-tock and lights dimmed ever so slightly during ticking. No visable LED anywhere under dash.......... BIG BOOMERS HERE GETINNG OFLINE FOR WHILE

Thank You sir, Tommarow the weathermen say it's going to rain , so the house painting I had planned may be out. If so, I'll look into what you suggested and keep ya posted..........thank You Bruce

My 92 Loyale started something NEW last week. It does this with no definet way for me to tell what causes it. the CHECK ENGINE lite comes on occasionaly. Sometimes it stays on for a few seconds or for the full 30 min ride home. Nothing else is noticable as in the engine beginning to miss or sluggishness. continues to purr along. Also, not sure if related. When I turn the AC on and move my blower switch to HIGH, the voltage meter drops from (approx) low 13 to 11 volts. Getting nervous of this draining the battery, I shut down the AC and can watch the V needle go back up. Sometimes when I turn the AC on, that CHECK ENGINE lite comes on. My Loyale has about 140,000 miles with original ALternator but a 2 year old battery:confused: