BruceY

can some one shead some light on whre that solenoid is?

Just noticed the nitwit in me listed my Subaru as a 90. IT'S A 1992 LOYALE DID 2k rpm thing and blinking did NOT stop. Same sequence

I thought that title would grab attention and get replys hehe So it seems it's just low on fluid, which I thought I did check but will check again:-\ Let me ask.....If I see it's full , Can the atf fluid go bad and break down since '92?

OK here's another issue to resolve. when I turn my steering wheel (either way) , I'm hearing a moaning what I believe coming from power steering pump. My power steering right now doesnt seem any problem, just the noise. The power steering fluid has never been changed and the Loyale has around 140k? Can it go BAD with that milage? How do I drain it? I had a '84 735i and I topped it off with power steering fluid. BIG mistake, it made same noise as my subbie. I had to drain and refill with auto-tranny fluid. WHAT would I use on this Loyale IF the fluid is giveing out:confused:

I installed the new temp sensor tonight and guess what....... my Loyale started right up so fast I'm surprised how that little sensor fixed my start problem. KUDOS TO SKIP THANK YOU SIR BRUCE

ok here it is 45 mins out in driveway, hood open, winds gusting to 30mph, 26 degrees here 9,500 ohms ??????

Just did some leg work, or should I say " let your fingers do the walking"? I called 2 auto stores and they said NO to carrying the sensor. I called my local subaru dealer / parts and have one on order. Lists for $81 but since I've bought alot from, I'm getting it for 65. I'll wait till close to 6pm and test again

Sorry SKIP, I'm in hyper mode with the cold / dark to get this figured out. I asked the questions before I noticed everything on the wonderful chart you posted, my mistake Bruce

Just got a 0.6 x 10k or 6,000 ohms at 5pm. I assume if let sitting till , say 5:30 or 6pm, ohms should go up. Contacts in that green connector look real clean should this check out ok,??????

if engine is warm/hot, what should multi meter show? ohm value or on/off. i've had car running and now is too hot to remove sensor for testing. but if i wait hehe it'l cool quick realy windy cold here:mad:

is it the green connector in the picture (hope it posted) or what it's connected to at the perceived themostat housing. It has 2 wires to it. The other is a single wire going to another area close by Can I remove the sensor without loosing too much antifreeze? The picture is poor due to limits here on size.

My '92 Loyale single point fuel injected engine has been a dream fast start up since I bought it new. No matter how cold here in NJ over the years, it started quick, and I could immediatly drive it. I didnt ave to let it idle to warm up to drive. I could drive it right off the get go even when temps dipped into the low teens. Last week , all of a sudden, it acts as if it has a old carberator with no choke. I have to pump the heck out of it to keep it running for a min or so. Then pump it to accelerate. Once the motor warms up it drives just fine. I believe my choke system has failed. Just waht I need now with temps in the 20's tomarrow:confused: ALL the fuses are good. It being throttle body fuel injected, I'm at a slight loss as to identifing compnentes on the throttle body. IF my fuses (under the dash) are all good, where do I begin to get my choke working again????

oRIGINAL CODE(S) were for O2 and purge control valve. see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61840&page=3 Could have it gone bad within 2-3 years, the O2 sensor? I will get another one if you think so. I did the resister trick on the purge control valve when it gave me a 35 code. Stopped the "check engine" light for a short while, maybe something else went bad.

HMMMMMMM NO RESPONCES?

Check Engine light came on a while back, blink code told me O2 sensor OR purge control valve. replaced O2 sensor and installed a 33 ohht went ohm 5 watt resister in place of, light went out. for short time. Now back on and blink code has me puzzled. It goes as shown 3 long 3 fast = 33 3 long 4 fast = 34 3 long 5 fast = 35 then it repeats this sequence over and over WAZ UP?

Here in NJ they are go/no-go on emmisions. Pass or no-pass. With no-pass and it's passed your inspection date, no drive leagaly till fixed. I have untill June 08 to resolve this leak. But I think I'll call or stop by my closest Subaru dealer parts in Cherry Hill nj this Monday and see what he says as to my flange orentation question. I'm leary of removing the Y/cat pipe again because I KNOW one of those holes threads are shot. I would have to install a larger stud/bolt, re-tap and prob drill flange larger also.

No not OEM, but just the same quality looking. A metal ring of some type is incoperated into the gasket. I dont recall any gaskets when I first removed the Y pipe. I know it wont warp sitting on shelf, My question related to the heat/cool cycle over 15 years and then removing the pipe from the car. YES there is a bit of rust at that area of the pipe. It wont pass inspection and let alone the dangers of being stuck in traffic this winter with the windows up. You have me leaning towards a new Y/cat pipe. DOES anyone know if a new Y pipe from Subaru will utilise the other threaded holes I've refered to?

Having removed my Y pipe off of my 92 loyale to fix a leak, I now have a small leak where the right side of the Y pipe bolts up to the exhaust port on the cylinder head. I've tried with and without the gasket. If I tighten up the bolts any more, I'm affraid I'll strip the threads in the aluminum head. I've already cleaned up those threads with a tap and die (10mmX125). I HAVE 2 QUESTIONS 1) There are 4 threaded holes where the exhaust flange bolts to the head. Only 2 are used. Are the other 2 same size holes for a replacment Y/Cat pipe, with subaru knowing that the threads get "bougered" up when unbolting? Is the flange on a replacement Y/cat pipe not welded to the pipe so that thses "new" holes can be used? 2) has that flange been known to warp over time? I have 160000 miles on it. My original problem was resolved but now I question removing the pipe

I've read in another post that disconnecting the battery for short time would reset the ecu? Do you think that might help?

Engine running , no connectors conected NO Check Engine light , No Blinking light WHITE connectors conected, key to run position, still 3 slow followed by 5 fast blinks check engine light on IS there a way to "reset" the stored codes?

After reviewing a previous post on solinoid going to canister, I reinstalled the one I had bypassed. Double checked the blink rate and it had'nt changed. OK, now I removed and bypassed the other solinoid. THIS ONE goes to the canister. After bypassing my CHECK ENGINE light went out. BUT, dont you like BUTS, But the blink rate when checked is still saying 35 ( 3 slow 5 fast)? I know as far as light being out for check engine I would pass inspection BUT, will I pass emissions if everything else is working? And that solinoid only being bypassed make me fail emissions? I do plan to replace but wonder what I'm pumping out the tailpipe till I do.

UPDATE: 3 SLOW BLINKS AND 5 FAST BLINKS STILL Purge control solinoid or circuit...................

Took a shot at it a choose the closest one to the TB. I did as said above post and still have the "check engine" light on. Time for more diagnosis