dirtball

Does your car shake consistently at idle? Does it "spool up" uncharacteristically when starting (example, is the rhythm of the starter interrupted with an audible "miss" when it sounds like the starter is not grabbing and spinning faster?)? This is my telltale low compression - the lack of compression in my one cylinder fails to resist my starter and causes this over-spinning. I also smell unburnt fuel from my exhaust.

New development! First, the ticking . . . Your probably having the same problem I am. I tested for spark at the coil, wires and plug. Not a problem (amount and timing I'm unsure about, but it seemed legit. I poked myself three times doing this - felt healthy ) . . . now for the news 99 legacy GT 2.5 5 speed. Reversed twice in the past three days (second time was this morning) and thought I'd hit something but there was nothing behind my car = something in my drivetrain is binding up. Results in horrific whining from transaxle and rear diff (hard to distinguish?) in forward gears that's speed dependent (not rpm!). I feel like I have hours to decide what to do or completely waste my transmission. Does anyone know a good trans shop in SE Michigan? There's only one dealership I haven't yet gone to and I'm seriously reluctant. I feel like they're accustomed to 'burbanites and could give a rip about my car. Also, I may be willing to fix this myself, but my time is limited and the cost of renting a car or buying a beater in the interim would add up my costs quickly. Help! I'd like a diagnosis that's not gonna cost a week and $400.

Hey, all! First post. I have a 99 Legacy GT (160K) with the same leak. Looks like the rear diff gasket. I'm a novice mechanic and not looking forward to dropping the rear diff. It has those mounting studs from the rear cover that fit through the frame preventing easy access to the top bolts. In order to get those out of the frame to allow the diff to drop, you'll need the whole diff to come forward a good 3-4 inches at least. I'm concerned that I won't be able to get to the cover without completely disconnecting the diff from driveshaft and output shafts. Haynes manual makes it look easier than I expect it to be (those studs are Michiganified). Good news is the gasket is $5 from the dealer. I drained and replaced the fluid for now. Assuming I have to replace this part, anyone have pointers on how involved this will be?